12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Water Release Valve

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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 01:54 AM
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Question Water Release Valve

OK, well i thought that i had found the water release valve that everyone says to empty every couple of times that i fill up and im rather sure now that it wasn't that proper valve, I found a canister with a yellow tab on it that i turned, i could hear stuff(probably gas) flowing to the ground and then it took me quite a while to get the truck started again after i emptied that canister. First off, what did I empty? and second, where is the water valve in relation to what i emptied?...thanks for the help!
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 02:48 AM
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Being I have a 24V I'm guessing they are the same, so I believe you emptied the fuel filter housing, The right thing to drain for water, but You prolly emptied it completely. You only need to drain it for a couple secs or so. I usually count to about 5.
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 07:34 AM
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Sounds like you drained the right thing, just way to long. This caused it to lose its prime, hence the hard to start. The water should be the first thing out of the valve, most users don't have a noticeable amount of water in the seperator when drained.

Not gas, it is fuel or diesel.
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 08:32 AM
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No wonder it wouldn't start if you had to get "gas" out of it!

Do the 98's have an electical LP or mechanical? Either way should he get a FP guage?
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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1998s can be either a 24V or 12V. The 12V has a mechanical lift pump and the 24V is electric. The lift pumps on the properly valved trucks are quite trusty unlike those overvalved ones which require gauges.
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 08:21 PM
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Re: Water Release Valve

Originally posted by kevellis32
OK, well i thought that i had found the water release valve that everyone says to empty every couple of times that i fill up and im rather sure now that it wasn't that proper valve, I found a canister with a yellow tab on it that i turned, i could hear stuff(probably gas) flowing to the ground and then it took me quite a while to get the truck started again after i emptied that canister. First off, what did I empty? and second, where is the water valve in relation to what i emptied?...thanks for the help!
You emptied the right thing. Just too long, as stated above. What your doing is opening a valve on the bottom of your fuel filter canister. Since water is heaver than diesel, it will collect in the bottom of the canister, seperating it from the fuel. Opening the valve will pour out any water along with diesel fuel at the same time. Just open the valve for 3 sec. If you want to see if any water IS in the fuel, you have to put a clear container under the hose to see. Ive never seen water in the fuel for the year ive had the truck. As for the hard starting, thats normal after doing so.
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 08:52 PM
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Hmm time for a dumb question, do the 12Vs have any way to prime the system? My MB actually has a little hand plunger pump that I can send the fuel to the IP. I'm guessing the only way to "prime" the 12V is to put fuel in the filter before starting or cracking the injector lines before starting like any other diesel.
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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Yep, i just slap the new filter in the canister and install it like normal. Crack open the little bleed screw on top of the filter banjo fitting, then pump the primer button underneath the filter untill fuel runs out the bleed screw. Close bleed screw and thats about it. Starts up pretty good, mabye a tad rough for a sec. but clears up fast.
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 08:49 AM
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Ok, they have a primer bulb, sounds good to me. Thanks.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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I'll post this here since I think my current problem is related...
This past weekend is the coldest my truck ( 1997) has ever been exposed to- it hit 0' Yes- the truck was pluged in- but I think there was a problem with the outlet- everytime I checked it- it felt COLD, not warm like it should (at the top hose), anyway after the truck sat for three plus days I drove it on the highway- a good highway run of around 50 miles. After shutting the truck down I noticed a diesel odor and then a very small spot of fuel under the truck- near the area of the filter- this is were the smell is strongest.

Driving around now- the truck runs fine- mileage is fine (actually up?), the leak seems to be intermittent, sometimes I see a small drop or two on the ground.

My friend who has a Ford diesel says he had the same thing happen- it was water in the fuel/water separator that froze and damaged an "O" ring resulting in a leak. Any body seen this before? I'm recovering from eye surgery and can't crawl under (or over) the truck till next week.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 06:18 PM
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I've heard of bits of debris getting stuck in the valve preventing it from closing totally, guess a sliver of ice could do the same. Usually just opening the valve for a second will flush it out.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 10:38 PM
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Have you ever changed the fuel supply and return hoses?
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 12:47 AM
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Thank you for all that info, that helped outa alot, I just filled my truck up today and put a bottle under the hose and drained it for about 5 seconds, there was a tiny tiny amnt of water in the bottle after i let it settle. I use that hughes diesel treatment at every fill up and from what ive been told is that that additive is the best on the market for our trucks. what is everyones opionion on that and does anyone use anything else in their fuel or oil that seems to help their truck run smoother?
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 12:50 AM
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PowerService is a pretty popular one. I normally run Redline DFC in my diesel, it has equal amounts of water dispersant in it as the amount added (3oz/ 20gal).
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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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Jeff M:

Was the question about the hoses directed toward my problem (the leak)? I've got about 166000 miles on my 97 and no I've never touched those hoses. Should they be changed- is this a likely trouble spot?

BTW- as of today I noticed no leakage- that I could see or smell any way(?)

Doug H.
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