my vacum pump needs the seal and o-ring replaced. anyone have the part #'s from cummins ? also has anyone done this and what kind of job is it ? would i find this in my clymer manual ?any hints or tips ? thanks guys, scott

 

The part number is 4089742. I just ordered mine today from the local Cummins dealer. I also took the pump out tonight. I had some help from my dad so removal was not to bad. I would take the pipe that goes from the inter-cooler to the intake out to give you some room. We waited until we had to actually take the pump out to remove it, that was dumb. Not to bad a of a job so far. The kit should be here tomorrow, so it should go back together tomorrow night.

 

thanks for the part #. what all comes in the kit just the seal and o-ring ? what did you pay for your kit ? and let me know how you made out putting the new parts on the pump. thanks again, scott

 

Don't waste your money on Cummins seals. Go to fixinrams.com and buy the double lipped seal and larger O-rings, plus he sends you the DVD and tools to do the job. The one you get from Cummins or even the dealer is another single lipped seal that will go out again. Well worth the 55 bucks to just have him send you everything.

 

John Strenkowski at jvssyn@rcn.com sells a double lipped seal and o-ring for around $10.
Hard to find elsewhere.

 

I got mine done tonight. No leak now and it cost about 3hrs and the kit was $8. I had them overnight the kit so I could get it done today, that was another $10. It was well worth it. I did not know about the better seal I searched this site but did not see anything about that. If I have to do it again I will go with the better seal.

 

JTA ... what tools did you use to remove and replace the seal and o ring ? i see on the fixinrams site that they send some sort of nylon tools to do this partof the job. did you also replace the gasket between the pump and the block ? if so, what was the part # ? do you completely remove the pump from the truck to do the seal work on a bench? and finally, was the job fairly self explanitory? other than finding the leak i really havent taken much time to look at what all is involved in getting the pump off then removing and replacing the seals. couple hour job i assume ? thanks, scott

 

1 other thing ... did you seperate the power steering pump from the vacuum pump then pull the vac pump out of the truck ? thanks again, scott

 

fixinrams was extremely helpful and informative with me. he even answered the phone on a sunday afternoon!! didn't know anything about john strenkowski so i have nothing to say about him.

 

If you don't know John S, you just haven't been here long. John is a perfectionist machinist.

 

That's the only kind of machinist there is.

the rest are just metalworkers.

 

I used some large sockets like it says in the Cummins instructions. The power steering pump was left on the truck. The gasket between the pump and engine was also in the kit. It was a fairly straight forward job, I am pretty mechanically inclined I had the pump out in about 1.5-2hrs. I got my kit the next day and had the truck up and running in less than an hr. I will say that some swivel sockets and ratcheting wrenches make the job a lot easier.

 

Dug this out of my notes - source may have been TDR several years ago:

I've had a Vacuum Pump leak for some time now. Posted a question about it not too long ago on the forum. Thanks Evan for replying with the info. The seal is measured in millimeters, 28x38x7. The type of seal is called "Viton", good up to 400 degrees and cost me $8.16 plus shipping. That is a lot better than $950+ not including labor that Dodge wants for the whole pump. You can get these seals from any industrial supply house. The process is very easy and takes under an hour to do. Here's how:

1. Remove four nuts securing Power Steering Pump (PSP) to Vacuum Pump (VP). Studs may back out of PSP. Just thread back in. Leave all PSP hoses connected. There is a spring aft of PSP on the injection pump that can get in the way. Disconnect and let hang. Do not separate PSP from VP yet.

2. Remove VP supply line and oil line at the bottom of VP. You may need to back up the fitting (7/16) at the bottom of the VP and then remove the oil line (9/16). You will get some oil drainage so be ready with a small pan.

3. Remove lower bolt attaching VP to gear case. Loosen but do not remove upper bolt completely as this will allow the whole assembly to hang down at an angle providing more room to separate the assy.

4. Gently separate PSP from VP taking care not to scar the sealing surface becoming visable attached to the PSP. Rest PSP on engine mount.

5. Remove upper bolt on VP and remove from vehicle.

6. Keep things clean. Remove two bolts and separate VP halves.

7. Set the PSP side (four legs) of VP face down on bench. Fit a deep socket (large as possible) through the hole in the center and drive the center section holding the seal from the outer housing.

8. Remove old seal and press in new. Clean all o-rings and lightly lube with grease including inside diameter of new seal and sealing surface on PSP.

9. Install center drive star and seal center section into housing. Assemble both havles of VP making sure there is no dirt inside the VP.

10. Install components in opposite order of removal. Clock drive fingers on PSP to VP to help in mating PSP to VP.

11. You just saved yourself $1000!!!!!

The company the seal was ordered from is International Seal and Packing Co.
Their part# 28x38x7av - specify Viton. http://www.intsealpack.com 800-651-2551

 

Check out this site http://www.fixinrams.com/index.html There is a kit that includes everything that you need and has instructions with it. It also comes with some parts that help with changing the seals. Pete is a great guy, I had a problem with changing mine and decided to go with a rebuilt on. Pete took the price of the seal kit off because I had already bought it.

 

Is this seal a double lip seal?