Got my truck timed today. It cost me $250 The timing before adjustment was @ 11* I had the truck timed to 15.5* I can't say I &quot;feel&quot; any difference, but hopefully my milage will increase from 10 loaded with the camper, to some significant improvement. I also added my gauges. I now have a pyro and boost gauge from Western Diesel. The pyro shows about 600-700 cruising, and the boost max's @ 24 lbs pretty easily. Do those numbers seem about right for stock?<br><br>TJ

 

Can't comment on the boost/pyro numbers but did have mine timed recently and the overflow valve replaced. The fuel pressure was checked before and after. Cost $300 at a Bosch certified shop in La Crosse, Wisconsin. The timing was checked and at 14. Had it advanced to 16. I think the biggest improvement was the overflow valve (easy to replace on your own). Fuel pressure jumped right up afterwards. Had problems of slow acceleration and poor mileage. Both have improved also. Just a thought but check this is mileage still poor.

 

Bubba,<br><br>I too decided to replace my overflow valve. Wow! That showed an immediate improvement. I WAS unable to go to say 2600 rpm's or up. Now I can go upto the governed 3000. I guess the valve was week and not allowing good fuel pressure. God, I hope that doesn't mean more fuel and less gas mileage!! I won't know untill I drive the truck a bit to see what the mileage is. ???<br><br>TJ

 

If the pyrometer is mounted pre-trubo, 600*F is right on the money. That is where the Cummins was designed to run.<br>John

 

how much is a new overflow valve and where exactly is it located?

 

[quote author=doodah link=board=16;threadid=10250;start=0#98176 date=1043898978]<br>how much is a new overflow valve and where exactly is it located?<br>[/quote]<br><br>Yeah, what he said!

 

The cost is approx. 65-70 each, or buy it here: http://www.piersdiesel.com/ the part/cost is : PDR2012050 Overflow Valve $55.00
Its not tough. Remember the syptoms. I noticed I would de-fuel at approx. 2600 rps, that is, I could not go above that. When i put the new valve in, it was immediate. I went up to 3000, like I am supposed to....before the governor kicks in that is. The pic attached is the valve and stares at you once the hood is up. Any questions, let me know.

Thanks TBGH. I feel a bit better now!

The valve is the brassy looking bolt headed banjo nut in the lower center of the pic. Notice the two new brass washers on either side. Oh yeah, I pulled the top rad hose in front of the fan blade to expose the valve. :-*

 

My overflow valve got priced out at $70 through the shop and installed. I think they took the intake manifold off to easily get to it. I had them do it as they were working on timing and checking fuel pressure which I couldn't do. Probably worth $55-70 just to find out and if it isn't that you've always got a spare when it does go bad.

 

Overflow valve location:<br><br>Stand next to your truck looking over the driver's side battery. Find the #1 plunger on the top of your injection pump, which is the front one closest to the radiator. Look over the top and down the side of the pump between the pump and the engine, below the #1 plunger. You should see a banjo fitting and bolt. That banjo bolt is your overflow valve. I think it takes a 3/4 open-end wrench. <br><br>-Jay

 

I have a source for 30 psi overflow valves at a MUCH better price.

 

[quote author=Bighammer link=board=16;threadid=10250;start=0#98513 date=1043969647]<br>I have a source for 30 psi overflow valves at a MUCH better price. <br>[/quote] ;D Well lets have this source

 

[quote author=97Dually link=board=16;threadid=10250;start=0#98231 date=1043913671]<br>The cost is approx. 65-70 each, or buy it here: http://www.piersdiesel.com/ the part/cost is : PDR2012050 Overflow Valve $55.00 <br>Its not tough. Remember the syptoms. I noticed I would de-fuel at approx. 2600 rps, that is, I could not go above that. When i put the new valve in, it was immediate. I went up to 3000, like I am supposed to....before the governor kicks in that is. The pic attached is the valve and stares at you once the hood is up. Any questions, let me know.<br><br>Thanks TBGH. I feel a bit better now! <br><br>The valve is the brassy looking bolt headed banjo nut in the lower center of the pic. Notice the two new brass washers on either side. Oh yeah, I pulled the top rad hose in front of the fan blade to expose the valve. :-* <br>[/quote]<br><br>Is this just a simple, unbolt old install new? or is there more to it? ???

 

Yes it is a bolt - unbolt deal. But there are 2 copper washers, one on each side of the fuel line. Do not loose them<br><br>I paid 297.00 Canadian for my timing kit. That should work out to less monies to buy the timing kit and time it yourself than to pay to have it done.<br>John

 

When you change the overflow valve, tuck a rag between the pump and the head so that the washers will fall into it if they slip.<br>george

 

Had my timing checked and set yesterday in Red Oak Iowa.<br>The valve lash was also checked and found to be within tolerance at 84,000 miles. Paid $65.00 and received a bottle of Stanadyne fuel additive to boot.