U-Joint Quality question
I have always tried to find the Dana/Spicer joints with the grease fitting in one cap for replacing driveshaft joints. Depending on clearance the zerks may have to be pulled and a plug installed if they are on the drive axles up front.
That said I have used whatever brand was available and have never had any problems. Just make sure they are greased well and often enough. It also helps to have a ball joint press tool to use on removal/installation of u-joints - the ability to slowly press and make sure everything is in alignment makes the job much easier. Compared to hammering new joints back in a press is the ticket.
That said I have used whatever brand was available and have never had any problems. Just make sure they are greased well and often enough. It also helps to have a ball joint press tool to use on removal/installation of u-joints - the ability to slowly press and make sure everything is in alignment makes the job much easier. Compared to hammering new joints back in a press is the ticket.
I just bought one at autozone
I just bought one at autozone and only bought it because it has a lifetime warranty on it. it was the brute strength one and didn't have a grease fitting. But i said what the hell $17.99 and lifetime warranty, why not. How much is a Dana u-joint?
A little fact that anyone with racing or hard core 4x4 histury will agree is that the ones without the grease fitting are stronger than the ones with grease fittings, they may not last as long, because you can not grease them but they are stronger.
I agree with you vordie
I have SNAPPED my rear u joints before in four low.. how that happened i dont know, an old mechanic friend told me for stregnth at the sacrifice of longetivity get the ones without the bearing, i do have one right now that i bought at a local (not mainstream) parts store in town and they work well..
Tx
I have SNAPPED my rear u joints before in four low.. how that happened i dont know, an old mechanic friend told me for stregnth at the sacrifice of longetivity get the ones without the bearing, i do have one right now that i bought at a local (not mainstream) parts store in town and they work well..
Tx
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If you want absoulute no questions asked strangh then I would go with CTM's. But those go in your front axle. They are without a doub THE absoulute strongest u-joint made. Stronger then the factory dana/spicer axles. But if you want driveline u-joints then I would recomend cryo- treated dana spicers. Then your weak link is no longer an easy to fix and cheap u-joint.
sealed, genuine Dana Spicer is the only way I go. The stockers lasted 165K, I can handle paying 50 bucks per U joint if they last that long. That was in the fronts, I haven't done anything with the drive shafts yet...
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