Have a dodge 1997 4wd 4.11 diesel truck with a 10 plate and gov spring kit. when I first put these mods in the trucked bucked when pulling, was bad. I loosened the gov springs by 1 click. that solved the problem. its now a year later and the bucking is coming back. I am pulling about 3k more (21k) and the bucking is not as bad as before, only going up hills. I remember the gov spring adjuster was not very tight, if I go 1 more click it might be to loose.

Looking for some help and advice on how to troubleshoot this problem. greg

 

Usually bucking under load is caused by one or both of the throttle return springs being broken or disconnected. One spring is inside the other.
You can find replacements at most autoparts or hardware stores.

 

Hope this helps,


THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO THE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL **WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS ONLY**.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicle bucking or jerking during steady state operation or mild acceleration.

DIAGNOSIS:
Some vehicles may exhibit a bucking or jerking condition while under light acceleration or while driving at steady state speeds. The vehicle may be in a loaded or unloaded state when the bucking or jerking occurs. This condition results from the sensitivity of the throttle linkage to driver input. If this situation is described by the owner, perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Quantity Part No. Description
1 05011726AA Kit, Throttle Linkage



REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This bulletin involves replacing the throttle linkage and levers with revised parts.

Remove the air duct from the charge air cooler and intake manifold connection to gain access to the injection pump linkage. Place a rag over the open intake to prevent foreign objects from entering.
Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable (if equipped) from the front throttle bracket assembly.
Remove the throttle control rod, front throttle bracket assembly, lever from injection pump arm, and all throttle return springs. Discard all parts.
From kit p/n 05011726AA, install the aluminum mounting block (Figure 1) to theinjection pump arm using 2 bolts (M6 x 1.25 x 20). The cutout will face outwards. Torque the bolts to 9 Nm (60 in. lbs.).
From kit p/n 05011726AA, install the new rear lever to the aluminum block using 2 bolts (M6 x 1.25 x 16). The return spring mounts should be pointing down with the long mount facing outboard (Figure 1).
NOTE: DO NOT TIGHTEN THE MOUNTING BOLTS FOR THE REAR LEVER AT THIS TIME.

Install the 2 new throttle return springs from kit p/n 05011726AA to the rear throttle lever mounts and pump mounts (Figure 2). No other springs are to be used with this installation.
NOTE: IF WORKING ON A 1996 VEHICLE, THE SPRING BRACKET (INCLUDED IN THE KIT) WILL BE REQUIRED TO MOUNT THE SPRINGS TO THE PUMP (FIGURE 1). REMOVE THE LOWER BOLT FROM THE TIMING PLUG HOLDER ON THE INJECTION PUMP (DO NOT DISTURB THE UPPER TAMPER PROOF SCREW). INSTALL THE BRACKET TO THE LOWER HOLE USING 1 (M8 X 1.25 X 22) BOLT. TORQUE THE BOLT TO 14 NM (10 FT. LBS.).

Install one throttle ball stud, from the kit, to the new front throttle bracket assembly. The ball must face inboard when the assembly is mounted in place. Torque the nut to 9 Nm (60 in. lbs.).
Snap the non-adjustable end of the throttle rod onto the front throttle bracket assembly and mount the assembly to the fuel injection pump with the existing bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
The rear lever must be set to the proper orientation by using the 219.9 mm gauge rod from the kit. Insert one end of the gauge rod into the rear throttle lever ball stud hole and the other end of the gauge in the large square throttle valve cable mounting hole in the front throttle bracket assembly (Figure 2). Make sure the injection pump lever remains seated against the idle stop. Tighten the rear throttle lever mounting screws to 7 Nm (48 in. Lbs.). Remove the gauge rod.
Install the remaining ball stud in the rear throttle lever. The ball should face outboard. Torque the nut to 9 Nm (60 in. lbs.).
Snap the throttle rod onto the rear throttle lever ball stud.
Adjust the throttle rod length to 126.5 mm (5 in.) as shown in Figure 3. The measurement should be taken from the centerline of the front throttle lever ball stud and the front face of the bracket where the throttle cable mounts. Take up any slack by pushing lightly on the front lever when taking the measurement.
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE FRONT LEVER DOES NOT GO OVER CENTER WHILE PUSHING LIGHTLY.

After tightening the lock nut, operate the throttle and make sure there is no interference to the throttle rod. Make any up or down adjustments by loosening the lock nuts and orientating the throttle rod as necessary. Re-tighten the lock nuts.
Reinstall the throttle control cable and cruise control cable (if equipped).
Make sure wide open throttle (WOT) can be obtained. Follow the procedures in the applicable service manual.
Remove the rag at the intake and reinstall the duct to the charge air cooler and intake manifold. Torque the clamps to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.).
NOTE: MAKE SURE THE DUCT CLAMPS ARE TIGHT TO PREVENT TURBO BOOST LOSS.

 

Yep, check your return springs. My dads 97 Ram did that while pulling his RV.

 

I lay my foot on the tranny tunnel and that seems to help a good bit but mine bucks pretty mild while towing

 

Assume thats a dealer part number? Just a question for the guys that are having this problem. When it does happen are you feeling it coming from the rear end or more from the engine? I have a horrible bucking problem when towing and it does it occasionally when im driving around empty. I feel it coming from my rear end like axle wrap. Only way to stop it from doing it is to push in the clutch or put it to the floor also it started right when i did my 5spd conversion.

 

The dealer part is rather expensive for what it is, a couple of springs and bracket.
You can accomplish the same thing with a couple hardware store springs.

 

Not to steal this thread but steering back the other direction. My truck has had the recall procedure done and started bucking when I installed the 215 pump with the 4k gov springs. I ended up pulling the inner spring to stop the bucking. Did I miss something in the trouble shooting or were the springs just to sensative for a 15k load? I would love to reinstall the 4k kit but towing is my priority.

 

This is what the main cause is

mine had this issue.. and solved it with the repair kit from the dealership... but this was a good solution..

Rick

 

Thanks Rick
I will double check them when I get home. They have been changed out already but who knows. The throttle recall came with them but I swapped them out for a set from the parts store. The kits made the truck bounce going over speed bumps unloaded.

 

Mine will buck even when it's empty, I wasn't sure what it was, I'll have to look at the governor springs, or talk to my dealer.

 

They are talking about the throttle return springs not the gov springs. The replacements through my truck for a loop. I looked like a 16 year old learning to drive a stick leaving the dealership! Had to buy new spings at autozone. Under a heavy load the truck was buking with 4k springs ill I pulled them. I couldnt get the bucking adjusted out. I will probably try again in the future but towing a 15k trailer is my priority.