First things first.
Thank you for all the replys to my trans and KDP questions. I changed the brake switch and Trans coolant temp sensor. Like magic, the truck shifts perfectly once again.

The KDP kit is ordered, and I'm looking to change the brake rotors.

Is there a tool or a helpful hint on how to get these off. I have tried, and it seems like they are rusted on. I say rust only because it's the only thing I see holding them after removing the bolts.

Thanks again

 

I am assuming you have a 1st gen 4x4. You need to remove the whole hub, and then remove the rotor from it by pressing out the studs. They do rust to the hub, but a couple smacks with a deadblow hammer usually frees them up.

 

Thanks, It is actually a '95 2500. I may have been on the right track. I just didn't want to start something that I couldn't finish. I see that a "good sized"
dead blow hammer is the key.

 

You need to get the wheel bearing off of the truck first , the rotor presses off once that entire unit is off of the truck , DO NOT use a puller to get the bearing off of the truck , you will most likely ruin it.

 

Infidel posted a trick that involved putting a socket extension between one of the four lugs that hold the rotor carrier in the knuckle and using the steering hydraulics like a press to pop the hub out in one piece.
It needs to be driven out from behind, yes any pulling on the front risks pulling the hub apart and its a 250$ part.

 

Do a search for hub removal, you'll get plenty of info. Basically in a nut shell leave the spindle nut tight, and use infidel's trick to use the power steering and press the hub off the knuckle. If you don't leave the nut tight you risk separating the bearing... which means $250. Good Luck

 

Break the big nut lose with the tires on the ground but leave it tight. Jack the side you are working on high to keep differential fluid from running out. Remove wheel and brake caliper. Caliper takes a 3/8" allan head.
Remove three of the four bolts that hold the unit bearing on from the back side, they take a 12 point socket. Leave the last bolt most of the way screwed out, wedge a socket with extension in-between the bolt and differential housing, start the engine and turn the steering wheel to pop the bearing off. You will hear it very clearly when it pops. Leaving the big nut tight prevents the bearing from busting apart.

During this process keep the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint. This keeps the axle seal from deforming and possibly leaking.

When you have the rotor off pound the studs out with a copper or brass headed hammer or press.

Pound the studs into the new rotor using a drift then make sure they are pulled in tight by tightening down a lug nut with a pile of washers under it. Impact wrench makes this a heck of a lot easier.

Coat the axle stub with anti-seize before putting the bearing/rotor back on so it comes off easy next time.