First post but have been reviewing the forum for a few weeks now. From reading, I think I've got auto transmission problems and am not getting performance I should be with the engine mods I have done within the last month. When I step on the fuel from a stop, I get a slight delay before it "kicks in" and the rpms wrap up and stay high through the gears until it locks in with OD. There is really no noticeable drop in RPMs or acceleration when it goes through the gears (1 - 3). It really has improved from OD Lockup (60 - 65) to when I let up (100+). Is this is telling me the TC is not handling the load and the shift points aren't correct? I cannot afford the 4K (+) for a crate rebuild from one of the big three suppliers that bring up so much debate within this forum. But, I do have a very good tranny guy in my area that could do the rebuild with some parts I could provide (TC and valve body?). Would not consider a stock rebuild or just adding the TC and valve body cause I know I'd definitely be spending the big bucks shortly thereafter. I don't tow anything bigger than my bass boat or my motorcycle trailer and it's a daily driver that I am looking for some good performance from. Guess I'm looking to see if my diagnosis is correct and some suggestions as to my proposed plan of attack. BTW I have plans on fixing the KDP soon. Great forum and great information too.

 

I'm in the same boat as you with 212k on my stock auto. On a long trip a couple weeks ago I finally got tried of worrying about when the tranny was going to leave me stuck at the side of the road at the mercy of a transmission shop I didn't know and with a trans that is more expensive to rebuild. Most autos fail within 100 miles of when they first start acting up, better to be ahead of it.

I bit the bullet and am going with a very good local trans shop using a Suncoast TC and valve body. The shop is also doing a complete going over the trans with some other mods and a deep pan. Still pricey but not as bad as some of rest, $3200. I think you are better off to spend all the money right the first time rather than end up spending more doing things two or more times to get what you want. No matter how you look at it it will be pricey to do it right. My feeling is the installer is much more important than the brands of parts.

 

Thanks, I agree with you. I don't know if this is acting up per say as the behavior I am experiencing has been the same for the last 100,000 miles. It may even be "normal" but it drives me crazy when it is at the point when it thinks it wants to go to OD but can't make up its' mind. If I don't use the OD, I get to the defueling stage at 2650 to 2700 RPM with no appreciable acceleration.

 

Unfortunately there is no real cure without a rather large investment on your part. You already have 130,000 miles on your trany so it is or will be due for replacement soon, especially if you continue to add power. You are very right about not getting all the benefits for what power you have added. The cold hard facts are you will never see the true potential of your truck and it's performance without a after market Torque converter , Valve body and control unit to manage it. The stock TC is just a slush puppy, it has to high of a stall, and slips way to easy. To get all the power to the ground you need a TC with much more surface area and higher pressures to hold it in lock-up. I think you would be wasting your money if you did anything other then a complete re-do. That would be transmission, valve body, torque converter, and controller. Yes it is expensive, but unless you up-grade all the links of the chain, you will be no better then the strength of the weakest link. You have 130K miles now, I would stop thinking about power, maybe even remove some, and stay stock and get the most life that is left in your transmission, OR....replace the whole thing and go from there. Those are really your only two choices. You can spend all sorts of money on more power, but you will never go any faster, and you will never reap the rewards of such additions.

 

Thanks Y-Knot. I don't think there is any way I could go backwards. In fact, if anything I want to add more power but think that will have to wait till she needs a rebuild which hopefully won't be for another 200K. I guess I am putting off the inevitable and will have to pluck down some big $$ and do it right. If I drive it gingerly, I should make it through the winter and be able to do it this spring.

Now the question comes down to if I buy a crate from Suncoast or DTT (or whoever) how much adjusting is required after the R&R and are special tools needed and can a out-of-practice backyard mechanic do it himself?

 

I'm sure you probably could but I'm a ex-mechanic with full shop and tools and won't touch auto tranmissions myself. That's why I said my feeling is the installer is much more important than the brands of parts. Local is even better in case there needs to be fine tuning.