Trans install ??
Trans install ??
Can the trans be R &R'd without using a lift? Need to know if I can do the install in my driveway. Anything out of the ordinary I need to know or any tricks to make it easier? I plan to separate the t-case in the truck. Thanks for any help.
It can be done. Just not as easy. It's easier if you have a porta-power to spread the frame slightly. Otherwise, use a BFH to remove and reinstall the crossmember.
The Trans really isn't that heavy. Manageable for two guys. Especially if you have a tranny jack.
The Trans really isn't that heavy. Manageable for two guys. Especially if you have a tranny jack.
I removed the crossmembers out of two 98's with a 2.5 lbs. baby sledge hammer. The crossmembers in the 98+ trucks are beefier and hard to remove than the earlier trucks. Hammer it up, and then to the rear. Might have a fuel line along the frame that you need to pull it back to clear.
If you got a tranny jack, its pretty easy to do. Especially if you are seperating the t-case first. Only thing is you might have to have your truck up a bit higher to get the tranny out on the jack. When I did my 2wd, I had it on 2" bricks in the front, had to slide the tranny out on its side on the concrete. Atleast the 4x4 will give you a lot more head room.
If you got a tranny jack, its pretty easy to do. Especially if you are seperating the t-case first. Only thing is you might have to have your truck up a bit higher to get the tranny out on the jack. When I did my 2wd, I had it on 2" bricks in the front, had to slide the tranny out on its side on the concrete. Atleast the 4x4 will give you a lot more head room.
I barrowed a motorcycle jack and used some ratchet straps to secure it while moving it.
I have some notes:
1. Remove the dipstick before unbolting the trans - I made this mistake and ended up cutting the dipstick to get it out from under truck. I had to wait 2 days for a new one to come in before I could start it.
2. Make sure you are using the new style lines on reinstall. Napa has them cheaper than the dealer, even comes with the trans temp port in the napa ones. The drainback valve in these lines didnt work well on my truck, after 2 weeks it's all drained back. I hear you can just use hydraulic host instead, however, do not use the plastic quick connects that came on the earlier 2nd gen trucks like my 96 as they have a tendancy to fail.
3. Jack the truck up to get the trans out, my 4x4 w 285's is pretty tall, but trans would not come out without jacking it up.
4. Pound out the crossmember towards the front. Pound it back in starting in the front going back. Frame rails get more narrow as you go backwards.
Defiantly doable without a lift. It took me and 2 others a weekend to get most of it done minus parts I was waiting on. Would only take me a day next time.
Joel
I have some notes:
1. Remove the dipstick before unbolting the trans - I made this mistake and ended up cutting the dipstick to get it out from under truck. I had to wait 2 days for a new one to come in before I could start it.
2. Make sure you are using the new style lines on reinstall. Napa has them cheaper than the dealer, even comes with the trans temp port in the napa ones. The drainback valve in these lines didnt work well on my truck, after 2 weeks it's all drained back. I hear you can just use hydraulic host instead, however, do not use the plastic quick connects that came on the earlier 2nd gen trucks like my 96 as they have a tendancy to fail.
3. Jack the truck up to get the trans out, my 4x4 w 285's is pretty tall, but trans would not come out without jacking it up.
4. Pound out the crossmember towards the front. Pound it back in starting in the front going back. Frame rails get more narrow as you go backwards.
Defiantly doable without a lift. It took me and 2 others a weekend to get most of it done minus parts I was waiting on. Would only take me a day next time.
Joel
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