My truck will not shift if you're foot is on the floor, if you back off the throttle, it'll go to the next gear. Is this a band adjustment thing or something deeper? I'm new to this truck/trans set up, I read the band adj. is easy and necassary. The ol girl got 165xxx miles, and is all stock, I know the guy I got it from, he pulled a 3000 lb trailer, but didn't beat on the truck.

 

Readjust the TV cable. It may also change the other shift points too, but make sure its adjusted properly. The TPS may also need to be adjusted correctly.

Mine is currently having the same issue, but if I adjust the TV cable to where the 1-2 shift is perfect, then the 2-3 shift is early and part throttle is way too early on all shifts. I have it adjusted to where all of my low and part throttle shifts are perfect right now, but it will not shift 2-3. I haven't tried to go fast enough to see if it'll shift 3-4 at WOT yet though.

Mine is after getting the trans overhauled though, but adjustments still apply.

 

Before you spend the money on the TV cable make sure your throttle cable is tight, if not split shot sinkers for fishing work fine or fancy cable pincher things. I had 2" of slack in mine when I bought it and boy did that help

 

My truck since brand new and all of the ones I've worked on won't shift into OD unless you back off on the throttle.
I was told this is to protect the tranny from the sudden high torque jolt.
You can get around it with a lockup switch but don't expect your tranny to last with locked up shifts.

 

Sounds like a TPS issue... Install a Pot kit and hammer down!! I like to adjust them so they engage a little quicker that way the tc locks up sooner.

 

But then you don't get any downshift when you want to pass or pull a hill when towing. It is better to tweek the TPS with diodes and a pot.

 

Bill that's certainly true for a stock trans, and for most other rebuilt transmissions, but I've shifted locked, both up and down with my ATS Stage IV trans for almost 9 years and 150,000 miles... I don't do it all the time, but I do if I need to or if my controller is set at a certain setting. So far so good. But I wouldn't try it with any other trans than an ATS. Back in 2001 when the "tranny wars" were raging on that "other" Dodge Cummins website that we used to be members of, people were saying that the ATS would grenade with locked shifting but ATS seems to have done their homework and come up with a really strong trans that is capable of being shifted locked. That is one of their selling points--that you can shift locked if you want to.

 

I have not had a chance to do anything but drive it. I'm gonna drop the pan and adj the bands and try that. It's stock w/ 165xxx miles on it, so I'm not ready to rebuild yet, just want it be right.

 

Don't think I've ever, ever, ever done WOT shifts. Never had the pedal pressed to the floor during acceleration.

 

what RPM is it at when it seems to hang?
Seems a slight kickdown cable adjustment(a little looser) might do the trick, if it is all stock.

 

My truck always shifted 3-4 at WOT before the rebuild/stock. It even shifted 3-4 after adjusting the TV cable tighter, though I never messed with the TPS. It has done it all it's life. I've still yet to try and see if it will shift 3-4 at WOT after the rebuild because it still downshifts to 2nd at 60mph if I hammer on it. I haven't been anywhere where I can go fast enough to try.

 

Though I'm sure you could use a band adjustment and it's a great thing to do, I doubt it will fix your issue. It really sounds like the Throttle Valve/kickdown cable is too tight and needs to be properly adjusted.

 

The throttle valve/kickdown adj is on the side of tranny, correct? I should try this first? Or do it all at the same time??

 

You should try it first. The adjustment is up on the top of the cable by the TPS and throttle linkage. On the end of the cable there is a "button" which you press and it allows you to pull the outer sheath backwards or forwards in relation to the inner sheath and cable. The "button" is a flat spot directly across from a round protrusion in the sheath. I think the round protrusion houses the spring which forces the button back.

"Correct" adjustment is where the lever on the trans has 1/16" of travel left after putting the throttle to the floor/WOT, but I would just adjust it by loosening one click at a time until it will shift.

Just one "click" looser in the cable may be all you need as one click can make a big difference.

When I adjust mine, I take the cable completely out of the bracket and off the lever because it makes it a whole lot easier to depress the button and be able to adjust the cable in or out such a small amount.

 

would all this info also relate to my 94? Seems like my lock up likes to lock, and then un-lock, then lock and un-lock, and repeat a lot of times. I only get it when I'm driving it sort of easy... Seems like when I am driving "harder" it doesn't do it. My trans also wont shift out of third when I have the pedal on the floor. One to two is good, two to three is good, three to four is not happening. I thought about the pot mod, but didn't know if only applied to the overdrive or for the lock up tq? I have 440,ooo on mine, maybe I need to check the throttle cable? The trans is less than a year old. Tried a diff valve body, and still have the same issues...