I pulled the 3-terminal connector out of my TPS and checked the terminals with a volt-meter to see if they're working correctly. This is with the key in the ON position (engine off). When I connected the ground to the top purple wire, I got a constant 5 volts. When I connected the ground to the middle orange wire, I ALSO got a constant 5 volts. Is that right?? Remember the TPS wasn't hooked up while I checked this. I checked the TPS separately with a 5vdc source and it works fine.

 

EGR model?

 

Non-EGR of course...

 

Procedure for TPS

http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio...TPS_adjust.htm

 

Ok, got my TPS voltage a little closer to spec today! I took it out, widened the holes and put it back with a little more twist. Now it reads 1.20 - 1.28 volts at idle and up to 3.75 volts at WOT. I tried a few different voltages. At one point I had it set to 1.44 volts at idle and 3.9 volts at WOT and the TC would stay locked up in O/D even after I let off the pedal. That didn't feel right. So I backed it down to where it is now and it unlocks the TC as it should. The factory specs are 0.8-1.2 volts at idle and 3.5 at WOT, so I guess I could've left it alone (my initial specs were 0.9v idle and 3.44v WOT), but it was worth a shot to see if it changed anything. My TC lock up occurs 4-5 mph later now under harder acceleration (55 instead of 50 mph).

 

When the TPS finally goes out, and it will, replace it with a potentiometer and you can set your lock up point after that. Here is a link to a post that may interest you.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3.html?t=42003

 

Very nice... Gotta love this site!

 

i have been running that potentiometer setup for over 3 years now on a basically dead TPS, its nice to be able to have the TQ lock up around 55 mph or higher depends where i want it,, I have my potentiometer inside my truck so i can adjust it as i drive

 

OK, I am seeing posts over the past couple of years on people REPLACING the TPS with a linear 5 watt pot, and then the posts about putting the pot inline and leaving the TPS in place, still wired in - the potentiometer unit evidently being used to determine voltage feeding out of the signal (center) wire from the TPS.

For the truck in my signature line - which has had the TPS replaced, and then the new one modified a year later, and is still hinky, what OTHER functions does the TPS perform in this system? Can I bypass (replace) the TPS unit with a potentiometer, or do I need to keep it to keep my doggone expensive custom tranny and exhaust brake setup functioning just like it should? We are also running the DTT SMart Controller for the PacBrake, if that matters here.
I have called long-suffering Bill Kondolay an embarrassing number of times with niggly little stuff since his install of this (truly magnificent) transmission, but this darn electronic stuff just won't go away.

Since tinkering with the TPS ALWAYS makes a difference, I have gotta believe the issues are in that circuit. I saw in some post that someone mentions fishing the TPS wiring out of the harness, and that that also helped - cannot for the life of me find out how he determined that, though.

Feedback, please?

 

From what I understand the potentiometer completely replaces the TPS and you always have to keep adjusting it as you drive. When I disconnected the TPS connector from the TPS, it gives the center signal wire a constant 5 volts, so the PCM thinks that the engine is at WOT even when idling. It totally messed up the shifting and wouldn't shift into 4th gear at all (unless you rev it way up). If the voltage is too high at idle, it will also keep the tc locked after you let off the pedal. I wouldn't go more than 1.2v at idle.

Furthermore, I assume if the potentiometer were placed inline in the center signal wire, then you'd be giving the PCM a lower voltage than what it should be under all throttle conditions.

What are you TPS readings now? I think you better stay with the factory TPS since you have extra DTT electronics hooked up to it but don't take me word.

 

Had to do a complete re-set of the TPS unit after having to take the whole shebang apart to install new throttle cable - lost the settings I had, but they had been not all that great recently, anyhow. Thing was great when new and was set to spec when installed, but it must be wearing now.... same old-same old iffy shifting stuff. After test drive (fully loaded truck and trailer, as hubby was heading south the next day on a job) I took the stupid thing off and reamed out the mounting holes - gave it a hard twist and said my "good running truck" prayers. His report after the six hour trip tells me I still need to tweak it out a bit more, but at least the darn thing is operational.... for now. I really wish a simple pot wired in would solve my woes!

There's still about 1/8 inch of plastic that can be reamed out of those holes, I think. Thinking on the orientation of it - and I am now of the mind that "somebody" in truck's previous life had the throttle linkage apart and turned the TPS shaft 90 degrees - the connector points in a different direction than ANY of the photos or diagrams I am seeing in researching this issue. It fits best pointing down-back at a 45 - and is mighty close to interfering with the transmission cable end on the bellcrank. The throttle hard linkage had definitely been messed with too - scabbed up pretty good by careless use of pliers on the control rod, and thread ends were run in unevenly... When she comes home I have more TLC do do, I guess.

Oh well. At least I got that infernal oil pressure sender replaced, and the new Piers boots on the drivers side while I was at it!

Hey, just a stray thought - does anybody have a diagram of where all the body ground connection points are for this truck? I am pretty sure a poor ground will cause havoc in these electrical operated systems...

 

Not sure about all the ground points, but I added my own ground cables to various locations under the engine bay for extra ground.

 

Husband drove back up to Abbotsford (British Columbia, CANADA) to the folks who built the transmission and installed it in Feb of 2008. Diagnosis (reading from the invoice) was "failed gouvernor pressure solenoid and torque converter. Replace solenoid. requires new torque converter." Not my spelling, it is theirs

Hubby did NOT have smiley face when told they would not back up their product, and that it would be another two grand to put in new TC.... he just drove it home.

Looking for a solution to make this money pit of a truck run through the winter, whereupon he's going to sell her down the road at a loss, no doubt about it. I think we are pretty much stuck at having to put in a new converter - we MUST have an equipment hauler in order to do business and make a living.

Any recommendations on a reliable shop in NW WA state, who will make darn sure all the little electrical bits are fixed when the expensive steel parts go in, would be appreciated here! If the electrical had been gone through at trans install and three or four little things put in new at that time, we would not be looking at another two thousand bucks today....

 

Wow, that's some bad news. I've had to take my truck back to the shop a good 4 times since I've gotten it rebuilt. Not that I abuse it, but just little things that were causing it not to shift right (hence the reason I even started this thread, trying to figure things out). They finally threw in a whole new valvebody and, knock-on-wood, it's fine now. These things come up and it's a PITA.

What is your tranny exactly doing?

 

Perr DT literture they replace the OE electrical parts.

Try Dunrite in the Portland area
http://www.dunriteconverters.com/httpdocs/index.html