Sorry for the repost, but I know someone did a write up off cleaning them. I can not find ant of these threads. Could someone help me find it please. Mine will not adjust to the correct amount.

thanks

 

After several TPS cleanings on different trucks I've come to the conclusion if your time is worth anything at all cleaning is a waste of it.
Results for me have been 100% short lived. The main cause of TPS failure is the windings wearing out at the throttle position you cruise at most often. No amount of cleaning will cure that.
Buy a new one from any autoparts store.

 

I tried everything with my TPS, but nothing worked. I picked one up at o'realys autoparts for $148 with a lifetime warranty(they macthed pep boys price) Feels like a new truck

 

oops just ran across my recipt $128

 

As Bill mentioned, your best bet is to replace it. Cleaning works to some degree, but for the time and effort it takes to clean it out and the frequency it needs to be cleaned out at, a new one is cheaper in the long run.

 

I did the writeup about cleaning the TPS
And to this day I'm still running the same TPS.... it was acting up last week after 8 months of trouble free operation so I pulled it off and sprayed it with contact cleaner resealed the hole and installed on truck again....total time 10 mins to repair
I think the dealer wants $300.00 for these TPS's which is a rip-off....NAPA gets about $200.00 for them....so since I'm cheap a can of contact cleaner for $1.95 is the way to go
The cleaning trick doesn't always work so after trying it your TPS still acts up then replace it
As you can see in the attactment a small hole drilled into the cover allows you to spray in contact cleaner...the hole is drilled 1/4" above the lip of the cover
Reseal the hole with silicone after cleaning

 

Heres the forum writeup I did about TPS cleaning

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=42649

 

My big question after dissecting several TPS's is how does dirt get in there so that cleaning helps?
They seem to be very well sealed.

 

Good point, how would anything get inside to cause a problem in the first place? Maybe bits of whatever the strip is coated with?
I cleaned mine out and packed with with dielectric grease. Hasnt been a problem since.

 

Not to hijack, but will a TPS cause a truck to take a long time to shift into overdrive. My 94 will stay around 2200 RPM for a long time usually before shifting into overdrive. Then once it is in overdrive it feels like the converter is locking and unlocking with the RPMs jumping about 200 and then back down.

Thanks

 

Its not a problem with dirt gettin inside but rather a problem with the electrical contacts corroding inside thats why contact cleaner is use to refresh the contact areas
All these TPS's are is a cheap rheostat type of device and because of the low voltage that they use the coils (contact area) corrode at the area you drive at 50-65 MPH which causes the torque converter to lock and unlock, this is the 200 RPM cycling we see when it happens
I'm sorry but I'm not shelling out $150-300 every time it starts to act up.... one can of contact cleaner has kept my TPS working since 4/13/2004
Before I decided to take one apart I needed to replace 2 TPS's on one of my trucks since I found out how to fix them I've not replaced a TPS

 

Once my truck has put itself in overdrive, it will not, regarless of how hard I load the truck, shift back out of overdrive on it's own to a lower gear. I must do that myself. Is that one of the symptoms of a malfunctioning TPS?

 

Heck, do that potentiometer setup I have in my picture gallery and set your TPS voltage to pretty much anything you like,,, i have done this to ones that Dodge said are dead and they work. Mine has been working for 2 years now with this mod and Dodge told me back then it was dead and Had to be replaced.

 

Wow,

You all are helping alot and giving me some good ideas.

thanks

Outlaw Storm,

Could you alaborate on this setup of yours some more? It sounds good, I just want to make sure I understand everything about the install. Also, how long have you ran it??

thanks again everyone

 

Its easy to do,, just look at the picture in my gallery. It will tell you what color the wires are. You cut the black with lite blue tracer. I then soldered a wire to each of the cut ones. I made them about 12 inches long. Then i stripped back the Orange with dark blue tracer wire and soldered a wire to it. it to was 12 inches long. Then i got the potentiometer and soldered it to the wires that I cut . This way you can have the pot and signal mire mounted where it is easy to get and adjust it.. Just put the red side of the digital volt meter on the signal wire and ground the other lead. Now turn on the key and when you turn the Pot you can set it to basically any voltage you want,, well up to 5 volts anyways. I have mine set at 1.5 volts and it works great... been working for 2 years like this now.

A 500 - 1000 ohm Pot seems to work best and can be ordered from Radio shack