Hey guys,

I've been reading and reading here trying to find out of what I've got is normal or not. I'm running a 96 2500 auto and a 5000lb trailer. Mileage (correct for tires) is around 14.8mpg according to my logs hauling the trailer (I'm happy about that part! I do mostly mountain driving with the trailer).

Whenever I hit a 4-6% grade, I find it hard to stay up past 50-55mph. I don't feel I get any power past about half throttle loaded at all. I don't seem to get much smoke at all except off-boost/off-the-line smoke. I plan to change the fuel filter/strainer, but from the looks of it the fuel filter isn't too old from the PO.

I've pulled the Overflow and measure it at real close to .5" with my mic. The head was already clearanced so I think the PO took care of that.

I use a lockup switch as well when towing, so I know I'm in lockup.

My throttle seems to have a "rough spot" at just before half throttle and I've checked the cables/linkages. With everything disconnected from the pump, the pump throttle still seems to have the rought spot.

Truck still has stock exhaust, including CAT.

The plate/AFC housing seems to be in the stock location as the breakoff is still in place.

Unloaded the truck seems to take off and run around with power that seems normal to me (I didn't think I'd have this much power on a 180hp/420ftlb stock 7000lb truck).

I also removed the silencer so I could at least hear the turbo spooling and running.

Maintanence:
Replaced air filter, changed oil, replacing trans fluid and filter this weekend, Fixed 4x4 CAD actuator that was froze up, replaced front axle U-joints, adjusted idle as it was at 500rpm in park, now it's about 900 in park, 750-800 in Drive with A/C on. I had a slight heating issue during hot weather, replaced fan clutch and yanked radiator and cleaned through the core (took an hour with my pressure sprayer at 1000psi and I still didn't get EVERYTHING out!) Replaced Coolant with new.

I have an EGT and Boost gauge on the way, already had a trans temp gauge that I haven't installed (installing that with the other gauges with the Pod gets here). Should be here Tomorrow.

I came acrossed a free muffler (Magnaflow) and exhaust tip from a powerstroke for free (with some of the piping attached) and will be placing that in there in the not to distance future. I'll likely dump the CAT at the same time.

I thought about moving the fuel plate forward after the guage install, but I'm unsure of that'll give me the results I want, and I'm not even sure if I'll get that much power from that. I'm going to also check the governor arm and make sure it's hitting the bottom of the plate (with solenoid up and at WOT, right?)

The only issue I've got with the fuel plate is I'd hate to have to run around at WOT to gain the extra power. Just by moving the plate forward, I'll get no additional part-throttle power, correct? Reason I ask is... after about half throttle is where I want the power to increase. What can I do here?

With all the vast knowledge and experiance you all have with these '96's, am I
on the right track, is this performance normal... and what do you all suggest for a guy whom doesn't want to race just wants a tad more towing power. I, of coarse, don't want to spend a ton of money on this, but rather only what is essential and affordable. I'm not looking for a 300hp monster (yet), but 220hp or so wouldn't be too bad.

Thanks for reading this book of a post, but I wanted to include as much info as I could. Feel free to throw things at me for wasting so much space!

Joel

 

I think that moving the stock plate forward would do just what you want. A GSK would widen your powerband. If you do the washers you can do them both for free, and then you aren't out any money if you don't get what you want from those to mods. But I'd bet you will be more than happy. It will be like a whole new truck.

 

Thanks for the response!

Already did the Free GSK. It did help a ton. Before that I had trouble getting up enough speed to hit OD with the trailer on the freeway if I was in high winds or going up hill from an on-ramp.

So moving the plate would certainly help then? What about part throttle response?

Joel

 

It helps through out the pedal travel. You might back off the starheel a little as well (farther to the front of the engine). And be mindful of where the AFC housing is, it slides front to back. Mine is slid forward, with the starwheel tightend to reduce smoke some.

 

More knowledgeable guys will likely respond , but I'd suggest losing the cat and getting a better air filter such as a BHAF or AFE or any similar types. Move the plate forward as well as the AFC cover and spin up the starwheel , ie.,forward towards front of motor. Should improve your performance.

 

Intake and exhaust mods don't really ad much in the way of HP, they are more to cool EGTs. Especially at stock fueling levels. If you have a lot of unburned fuel they will yeild more in the way of power.

 

A stock plate is OK with a GSK. The only down side is that it tends to put max hp up around 3,000 rpm.
Sliding any plate forward does require a governor lever check.
On a stock plate just make sure it doesn't slide under.
More fuel means raising the boost levels. With a stock plate you can get away with disconnecting the wastegate hose, removing the compressor fitting and plugging the hole.

Your air filter is fine for now. The cat may or may not be a problem. I used to keep my clean with a full power ride up a hill. As you tow pretty often, it should be pretty clear.

I am very hesistant to recommend any plate changes to a stock auto. I burned up my converter clutch pretty quick with a GSK and #4 plate fully back, plus the AFC housing back. The slop (stock) converter is easily over powered which means lock-up occurs with up to 750 rpm difference between the engine and transmission.

 

I have about the same truck but have a #10 plate.
The big limit with mine is not the power but how it gets to the ground.

The stock tranny is never going to let you haul on any grade at speed because 1)the TC can't handle the torque-ie rpm's under 1850 or so, so as configured stock it spends a lot of time fluid coupled which is very poor performance as stock. Like 30 -40% less than a built trans. To get rpm's above 1800 or so you have to go down a gear.
2)because of the TC issue you will always have to be in a gear that is higher than will allow any real speed, unless you can be in OD or third coupled and as I said it won't really let you do that unless you add power but then you'll wreck the Trans.

 

The man is right

AS is Big Jimmy, for the power you want, a stock plate bumped forward will probably be at 220 or so rwhp and at about 500 or so rwtq... But If you are gonna push it forward, i do suggest some gauges at least. A 10 plate is a good power adder, but it will slip ur stock tranny.. All of these gentlemen have good advice, i need not say more..

Rick

 

Well, right now I'm taking off the AFC housing to look at the governor arm to make sure it's not already diving under. For some reason, though, the AFC housing is stuck. I can lift it about a 1/2 inch and it doesn't go any further. Fearing damage if I pull on it much, I'm hoping someone can enlighten me?

Joel

 

Nevermind on that last one. I had to get one of the screws out that I had to drill the head off of. Once I got it out it slid out.

Joel

 

I figured out the "rough spot" in the peddle. It's the governer arm hitting the plate. Seems to do this without much peddle travel. Is that normal?

Oh, and gauges are supposed to be here tomorrow.

Joel

 

I found the plate to be a tad before center, so I bumped it to the center (about an 1/8th inch) and see how that works for me. Only had about an 1/8th inch from the stock plate sitting all the way back.

Joel

 

So here's what I've got so far..

I moved the plate a tad forward like I said, about an 1/8th of an inch. I did get some improvement when I test drove, but since I didn't have gauges, I didn't horse with it much. Installed my boost, pyro, and trans temp gauges.

Today I hooked up my trailer, and found a nice long grade here by my house. With trans locked up in 3rd, truck didn't want to pull to much after 2300 RPM @ 3/4 throttle, but EGT's were sneaking up past 1200 so I backed off. Boost was at 14psi, and black smoke that would paint my trailer if I kept it up.

Went home, pull the wastegate line. Went back, pulled the hill a little easier, smoke is gone, max boost is 18psi, max EGT was 1100F.

Does this seem pretty normal here? I thought I would end up with more boost than that with a wastegate pulled? Is that because of lack of fuelling, or possibly a clogged cat? I'm not sure more boost would net more power, that just seemed like an odd part of the equation. I may slide the plate a little more forward, but would like to make sure the boost is there to knock the EGTs down some.

Thanks for everyone's time so far. Trucks running somewhat better. Transmission felt like I'll be shifting and locking up the trans by using less fuel peddle and just going easy on it.


Joel

 

I noticed today after work, with the truck unloaded, 3rd gear locked @ 60mph around 2200rpm, I punched it and dumped a black cloud out of the tail pipe. I'm sure other drivers were impressed. That shouldn't happen with the WG line pulled and capped off, right?

Joel