My trans performs well, but its stock. I think it may have a recent rebuild under its belt, since the fluid is perfect and it has a Mag-Hytec pan. I put 100 plate in, 4" staight pipe, and custom CAI. I have a boost elbow and am itching to turn things up. If I got a decent single disk and valve body, assuming the internals are in good shape, what can I expect it to hold? I was thinking Goerend Single and valve body.

-Dustin-

 

get a tripple disc, ive heard of reaching 450 hp on a tripple disc and valve body.. i wa pusihing 350+ in my stock! auto. it didnt like it much but i since brok the turbo and had to put the stocker back on. and i tuned down a bit to gain some fuel mileage back...

 

I am trying to see how many have actually done it. Seems like it always comes down to just buying an entire trans.

Anyone done a converter and/or valve body? How did it go?

-Dustin-

 

my tranny had 110k miles on it, completely stock motor (moved stock plate forward a little bit at 100k and could slip the converter but not much)

i put a transgo shift kit in at 110k and ran it with a 3k spring and #10 plate for another 15k at this point i could slip my converter badly.... it was fine for a while but just didnt hold up in the end.


at 125k i put in a goerend triple disc and billet band strut kit.

went to a #0 plate
215 injectors
16* timing
rack plug mod etc

cant slip it now. has been awesome.


my friend has a 97 auto with suncoast triple disc and vb on a stock tranny, and he just dynoed 326/825 .


cumminsdriver635 (who i'm sure will chime in)

dynoed like 337/ 770 ( not exact) , on a goerend vb and triple disc. but i believe he is slipping clutches now.


i am wondering myself at what point the stock clutches will slip???

 

hi
i have no history of my truck so i did a transgo tfod -desiel vb kit and am very pleased with it 280,000 + miles on the truck .
it has a loose stock convertor , i may change it next year ?
walmart aft+4 fluid !
10 plate and pushed it to 27 lb boost today by blocking wastegate line .
ok so far !

 

i have a race converter (wish i would have done the tripple disc) and valve body and the line pressure is turned up. i cant say enough good things about it. shifts better, never slips. i am also not pushing extreme power through it all i have is an intake and fuel plate so im under 300 hp but its alot more than the stock 180.

 

a former member bigbluedodge ran 450hp on a stock trands with the SUNCOAST tripple and valebody only... he had zero issues! but he upgrade to a full billet and got more fuel AND SUCH TO DRAG RACE!!!

 

like i said i am on a stock trans, mabe a little better of a converter but its all stock... and im pushing 350...... toasted the first one at 264 horse, then i got this new one and added injectors and a charger... it shudders and slipps reall bad!!!!! i tuned down a bit for longevity and no more slipping or shudder..... but the power cuts throught the trans anyway... its sad how much u lose through the driveline

 

I have been thinking along these lines also , Goerend's triple , valve body , up grade band ,
I bought truck with unknown trans at 209,000 miles , now have 264,000 , I would go with a full trans but can not come up with $3,250 , I would like to think that if do that much up grade , that if trans has issues that I could still use those parts ?
Also looking for info on turning up pressures ?

 

line pressure screw is on the side of the valve body..... if u have that many miles andc the trans ius unknown, u might want to just break it and then have to get the full upgrade.... thats iffy on how well it will last.

 

At 228K I just had my 125K mile stock rebuilt trans gone through at the hands of McMopar. High friction clutches, replacement stock input shaft, Goerend valve body with 2nd gear lockup, and triple disc TC made a world of difference in how the truck performs. As to how much you can put through one the limit is the input shaft and clutch material. The stock input is good up to around 300HP, anything over that or wanting to shift while locked up and you need a billet input/output. I didn't want to spend the $$ on billet shafts and I tow heavy so I am limiting myself to the 300 HP range. Your use may need a completely different setup. Talk to Goerend about what you want to do to see what they say.

I know somebody on this board that is over 600HP and right at 1K TQ on a Goerend trans that has a few personalized touches.

The sky is the limit, it seems. Ain't these motors great?

 

Very good responses guys! I dont plan on running anything more than maybe 32-35psi on the stock HX35, [maaybe a HX40], since I cant afford to get the headstuds or O-rings yet. My only future plans for the motor would be some 370 injectors and tuning the boost up to the low 30's. I'm not sure what those mods would net me HP/TQ and 1/4 mile wise in addition to my currrent mod list. My biggest goal a more responsive, power to the ground, ricer spankin' daily driver. I used to daily drive my Z28 before it become street 'unfriendly' and it was a blast, but snow driving with skinnies and slicks just isnt safe.

I am at a crossroad. Here are some options I am thinking over.

#1 Full Suncoast build from local Northeast Performance Diesel - $3500ish [possibly billet input and maybe output shaft] Do it one time and be done, although I'd have to scrape to get the money.

#2 Suncoast/Goerend or similar brand Triple Disk and Valve body. When the other stock stuff goes rebuild it on my own and resuse these parts then add billet stuff. $1600ish [Yes I can and would do this]

#3 Suncoast/Goerend Single Disk and Valve body - $1000ish [But the single may not be enough when I want to rebuild]

#4 Stop the modding immediately or reverse it and wait till I save up all the money for a built trans and have it shipped to me and do the swap and send my old one back. [No fun for a year or two]

Just some options I am thinking over

-Dustin-

 

i vote for scrape up some cash and get it done in one punch.... and bomb like crazy so the one in there breaks and you now need a new one, this will make it much easier to convince urself and anyone else...hahahahah
but n need for billet according to goerend to 400 hp, unless u plan on pulling opr launching with boost pressure...

 

There will be nothing more than a stock turbo for the next year or so, so I dont think that billet would be needed. Just daily driving for now. But when I step up, I'll do a full rebuild.

-Dustin-

 

Well you know, I thought I was slipping clutches, but im starting to think I just cant kill this transmission I found out what was causing all my problems was my TPS going haywire, so I fixed that, and it drives perfect again. I did a 4wd launch a few days ago, and it hasnt missed a beat, and the fluid still looks perfect, so I think she still has some life left in her. I have been running A Goerend converter for about 30k miles now. I had a transgo for the first little bit of that, and then I switched to the Goerend VB. Transmission has been flawless so far. I love it, and it has held up awesome. I usually pull the truck at least twice a year, and make quite a few drag strip passes. It hasnt given up on me yet, and Im thinking I may make it to the drag strip soon to see if I can get a mid 14 second pass out of it. I did break my input shaft, so I had to put a billet one in it, so depending on how hard you are going to be on it, you may want to go ahead and get that out of the way. I hear people saying all the time that this is just a band aid. Well of course it wont last as long as a whole built tranny, but I believe that if you have a decent tranny to start with, and add a valve body and converter that it will take a lot of abuse. Like I said, mine sure has been good, and I wouldnt have done it any different if I had the chance now. I would reccomend going ahead and getting the triple disc though. Its overkill, and that is what i like.

Eric