Stock 95 Auto Capability?
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
My father-in-law has a 95 2500 Reg Cab Auto 4X4. The unit has only around 125,000 miles on it and is used mostly for light hauling. The torque converter was replaced at approximately 60,000 miles.
Honestly, I don't know alot about the CTD autos as all I have had are 5 spds. He would like to bump the power up a tad to just over 200 hp/ 550 ft-lbs with probably a #10 plate and a 3K GSK.
His big concern is the auto and if it will handle that little bump without internal mods. Is it safe or do we have to budget for some other parts??
Thanks guys..
J-eh
Honestly, I don't know alot about the CTD autos as all I have had are 5 spds. He would like to bump the power up a tad to just over 200 hp/ 550 ft-lbs with probably a #10 plate and a 3K GSK.
His big concern is the auto and if it will handle that little bump without internal mods. Is it safe or do we have to budget for some other parts??
Thanks guys..
J-eh
Well, an auto that is in good condition will handle those mods. Mine did ok, but I wanted more so am planning a tranny conditioning along with a t.c. upgrade and a shift-kit/valve-body upgrade. That tranny has 125000 miles and 65000 on the torque converter, so it would be a good idea to check it out regarless in my own opinion. just my .002
regardless he NEEDS more power - my truck was a slug before the #10 and the gsk.....
regardless he NEEDS more power - my truck was a slug before the #10 and the gsk.....
It should be fine, Just as long as you don't go with a huge amount of power and roast the tranny on the first testdrive (ME
) But now I've got a rebuilt tranny, so I'm happy as a clam
Dom
) But now I've got a rebuilt tranny, so I'm happy as a clam
Dom
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
That was one of our questions was about line pressure and where it was optimal. That came up after I found the link on dodgeram.org on the TC lockup switch. Again, the thought was if you keep it locked down low, you would roast the clutches or the TC.
He is hauling about 5000# of travel trailer through the Rockys up here and would like more jam, but not at the cost of a tranny. That being said, if it requires some upgrades to the tranny, then he will just budget accordingly.
He is hauling about 5000# of travel trailer through the Rockys up here and would like more jam, but not at the cost of a tranny. That being said, if it requires some upgrades to the tranny, then he will just budget accordingly.
Re: Stock 95 Auto Capability?
Originally posted by Lil Dog
My father-in-law has a 95 2500 Reg Cab Auto 4X4. The unit has only around 125,000 miles on it and is used mostly for light hauling. The torque converter was replaced at approximately 60,000 miles.
Honestly, I don't know alot about the CTD autos as all I have had are 5 spds. He would like to bump the power up a tad to just over 200 hp/ 550 ft-lbs with probably a #10 plate and a 3K GSK.
His big concern is the auto and if it will handle that little bump without internal mods. Is it safe or do we have to budget for some other parts??
Thanks guys..
J-eh
My father-in-law has a 95 2500 Reg Cab Auto 4X4. The unit has only around 125,000 miles on it and is used mostly for light hauling. The torque converter was replaced at approximately 60,000 miles.
Honestly, I don't know alot about the CTD autos as all I have had are 5 spds. He would like to bump the power up a tad to just over 200 hp/ 550 ft-lbs with probably a #10 plate and a 3K GSK.
His big concern is the auto and if it will handle that little bump without internal mods. Is it safe or do we have to budget for some other parts??
Thanks guys..
J-eh
I dont have a clue how much hp, 280 or so . The more hp you make the more you can just run through the convertor if you wont. I dont hot rod and I dont use overdrive when loaded under 1750 or so. I raised the oil pressure at low throttle angles and dont let the truck shift below 1800 or so . If he has to have a automatic or does not like shifting, ect then perhaps he may be better off buying a transmission of you choice, DDT, Goerend, Suncoast, ATS, BD, I hope I did not leave any one out there.
I was told the reason that some transmission make it is because of the wide range of factory clearances. If his transmission is on the close side then the transmission will have a better chance of lasting. Raising the factory pressures some could help also. To be honist Bill at @ DDT gave me a lot of GOOD advice on how to make it last at little longer. One trick is when you set up your fuel is to not have a huge amount of power at low throttle angles or the transmission is not going to like it. Low throttle angles is lower oil pressure. ( stock transmission)
Go to neutral after you start to charge the convertor, make sure to keep the fluid level correct. Check the cooling lines also as they are prone to rubbing and will rub a hole in each other. There is a lot of things that you can do to help you out if to make the transmission last. The thing is you cant use the power in fluid coupling because the convertor is just not up to the task. When you get to lockup you can use the throttle, but I would not reccomend it at low rpms. The transmission shifts to early from 3 to 4 also . For sure if you are towing. I dont claim to be a expert on automatic transmissions, I dont have any use for them as I only wont to use the truck to tow, Perhaps I have been just lucky Jim
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
Thanks Jimk...
Lots of good information.
The head and chin scratching has been over the ability of the stock tranny to be able to pull better in OD, but I see now that is not really a very realistic goal.
The scenerio is pulling on slight grades at around 60 mph. From what I was told it is just not enough jam to hold that speed if you get into a good wind and a slight grade. The thought is that if you had a little more jam, you could hold it into OD a little longer for some better mileage, possibly.
From what I see here, the 3K GSK is going to be more of an asset than the plate would be.
Information on line pressure adjustments would be appreciated if someone is willing to divulge it...LOL..
J-eh
Lots of good information.
The head and chin scratching has been over the ability of the stock tranny to be able to pull better in OD, but I see now that is not really a very realistic goal.
The scenerio is pulling on slight grades at around 60 mph. From what I was told it is just not enough jam to hold that speed if you get into a good wind and a slight grade. The thought is that if you had a little more jam, you could hold it into OD a little longer for some better mileage, possibly.
From what I see here, the 3K GSK is going to be more of an asset than the plate would be.
Information on line pressure adjustments would be appreciated if someone is willing to divulge it...LOL..
J-eh
pressure
The DDT web sight use to have the pressure adjustment there. I made a bracket to hold the throttle lever from going all the way back to the resting spot on the transmission. The results are delayed up shifts and more line pressure at low throttle angles.
If you have 3.54 gears and try to tow in overdrive at 60 that is not a good idea. The heavy loads I use third gear and just let the engine rpm. The reason I did not wont to spend 4k on a 3 speed transmission to tow. regards Jim
If you have 3.54 gears and try to tow in overdrive at 60 that is not a good idea. The heavy loads I use third gear and just let the engine rpm. The reason I did not wont to spend 4k on a 3 speed transmission to tow. regards Jim
Do a search, their is a thread that fully explains line psi and how to adjust it. Also a plate, or sliding the stock one forward can give more fuel, hence allowing the truck to pull much harder in o.d.. The #10 plate made my truck hold speed on hills pulling a 32' travel trailer much easier. In fact I can pull the Hart hill (local hill that is a good test for a truck in west mi) and maintain 75 mph with no problems. just my .002
Jimk,
Could you elaborate on your tranny bracket? I am interested in that theory if for no other reason to have it as an option. So, how does it mount, how far does it hold the arm etc.etc..... thank-you
Could you elaborate on your tranny bracket? I am interested in that theory if for no other reason to have it as an option. So, how does it mount, how far does it hold the arm etc.etc..... thank-you
bracket
Originally posted by SHARPMACHINE
Jimk,
Could you elaborate on your tranny bracket? I am interested in that theory if for no other reason to have it as an option. So, how does it mount, how far does it hold the arm etc.etc..... thank-you
Jimk,
Could you elaborate on your tranny bracket? I am interested in that theory if for no other reason to have it as an option. So, how does it mount, how far does it hold the arm etc.etc..... thank-you
The bracket has been on the truck for 5 years. I attached it to the cooling line with a hose clamp and took it for a test drive. A few adjustments and It was a lot better.
Did not cost a penny.. Dont try to short shift the transmission and dont tow in overdrive below1750 is what I would do. good luck Jim
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
Originally posted by SHARPMACHINE
Do a search, their is a thread that fully explains line psi and how to adjust it. Also a plate, or sliding the stock one forward can give more fuel, hence allowing the truck to pull much harder in o.d.. The #10 plate made my truck hold speed on hills pulling a 32' travel trailer much easier. In fact I can pull the Hart hill (local hill that is a good test for a truck in west mi) and maintain 75 mph with no problems. just my .002
Do a search, their is a thread that fully explains line psi and how to adjust it. Also a plate, or sliding the stock one forward can give more fuel, hence allowing the truck to pull much harder in o.d.. The #10 plate made my truck hold speed on hills pulling a 32' travel trailer much easier. In fact I can pull the Hart hill (local hill that is a good test for a truck in west mi) and maintain 75 mph with no problems. just my .002
The pull you are maintaining is what we are after. Since we have the stock governor setting too, its hard to fall back under the 2500 Rpm mark to maintain speed. Thats a significant RPM drop as well as speed. It will pull there all day, its just tough on the narrow roads to be the slow poke..
This is great stuff.. Wow..
governor springs
Originally posted by Lil Dog
Thanks, I will search for that... I remember reading it before, but it was a while ago.
The pull you are maintaining is what we are after. Since we have the stock governor setting too, its hard to fall back under the 2500 Rpm mark to maintain speed. Thats a significant RPM drop as well as speed. It will pull there all day, its just tough on the narrow roads to be the slow poke..
This is great stuff.. Wow..
Thanks, I will search for that... I remember reading it before, but it was a while ago.
The pull you are maintaining is what we are after. Since we have the stock governor setting too, its hard to fall back under the 2500 Rpm mark to maintain speed. Thats a significant RPM drop as well as speed. It will pull there all day, its just tough on the narrow roads to be the slow poke..
This is great stuff.. Wow..
I have been told that the oil pressure in a automatic should be good at 1200 or so rpm, but the oil pump reaches it max at 1700 or close to that and has a gpm of 3.9 and the latter is 4.2 gpm . I could be off there some. Any way when you have worn parts or leakage and it is a problem with stock transmissions the extra rpms helps maintain oil pressure.
There are two external adjustments on the valve body , main line pressure and light throttle shifts points. By adjusting the TV throttle valve stop bolt one turn is = 75 rpms. I like the throttle stop bracket better as you dont have to pull the pan. I have been told to also turn the pressure reg. spring screw at least 3.5 turns counterclockwise. That should increase your pressure by 7-9 psi . This is by a few notes that I have and memory so please check before you act on this information. good luck Jim



