I've heard guys talking about sliding plate forward and afc adjustmwent and then some mention adjusting starwheel. What is the difference between the starwheel and the afc?

 

the afc controls fueling. Below 6 psi boost, it is adjusted by the star wheel. Turn the star wheel towards the engine for more fuel, away for less. Above 6 psi, fueling is controlled by the plate, and is related to boost pressure.

 

Thanks TRCM for your prompt reply. I thought they were related but maybe I was missing something.

 

AFC is Air Fuel Control. The plate (which is adjustable fwd/bckwrd) is under the AFC housing. The starwheel is inside the AFC housing, its adjustable as well by rotating it twrds or away from the motor. The AFC housing itself is adjustable by moving it fwrds/backwards. It is the same adjustment that the starwheel controls, except it is more of a dramatic adjustment. The starwheel is kind of for fine tuning. Sliding the plate and/or sliding the afc = increasing fuel. Turning the starwheel towards the motor = increasing fuel.

 

DZLPWR

said it in a way that i think about it, Think of the starwheel as the fine adjust to the smoke, if you loosen it, (which can be done by removing the hex head and then taking a flatt screwdriver to it) you will have slightly more fuel on the low and and thus quicker boost.

The torque plate, or fuel plate as most call it, well i dont know how much you know about it or not, but here is an explanation that i came up with a while back, and i know many of you have seen it, so if you havent it might clear up a few things..

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Hopefully this clarifies some issues for you, The torque plate is inside the AFC housing, and is more the coarse adjust for gaining power as a best explanation...

Tx

 

For access to the torque plate, I was looking at it (and did the star wheel adjustment) and I want to slide the plate (until I get the TST kit...). I saw the instructions on TST's site and they show a lot of disassembly that looks unnecessary, such as removing the "air intake connection". It looks like all I need to do to access it is to move the wiring harness out of the way that runs just over the top of the AFC housing, remove the housing bolts, and remove the housing. Their instructions show the "fuel supply tube from filter" running just over the top of the housing, which wouild need to be unhooked. My tube isn't anywhere near the top of the housing, leaving plenty of room to get the housing out.

I must be missing something...or am I?

Jim

 

I don't think the supply tube is in the way on any 12 valve.
I find it necessary to remove the intake only the first time the housing is removed.
Much easier to remove the break-off screw with with the extra room.
No big deal, just five bolts and a clamp.