12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

slow cranking

Old Nov 13, 2005 | 08:25 PM
  #1  
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From: pa
slow cranking

can anybody here help me with this? I have a slow cranking problem when the truck has been sitting for atleast six hours or more and only when the temp is below 60 I thaught it was the batteries but they tested good under a load. I even put 2 new ones in & still the same. I had the starter tested & all of the connections are clean. the the grid heater are working fine after it starts its fine all day I mainly have this problem this problem when I first start it in the morning & after a fun day at work. I recently changed my grid heater relay & I might of got the four little wires mixed up.
I'd appreciate any help this is driving me insane!
thanks Matt
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Old Nov 13, 2005 | 08:50 PM
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From: Laredo
Welcome to DTR!!

when you crank the engine on the truck, what does the volt meter read? Maybe ur pcm has gone bad... Please put ur trucks info on ur sig, so we can better assist you....

Tx
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 05:20 AM
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I had a similiar problem, do a search on starter contacts. Even if the "starter tested out OK" how was it tested? The contacts inside the starter get pitted and oxidized. This really increases the resistence. It's a simple fix to get the new contacts and plunger.

Also change the relay in the fuse distribution center under the hood. Just switch it with another relay of the same rating. For some reason, a flakey relay can give you funny symptoms like that (one of my problems ith the starting circuit), but I am still guessing it's the contacts.

Also check your grounds at the block, and all other connections, especially the positive wire that connects to the starter. Remove them, clean them, grease them, and reinstall-all of them.

Lastly, it could be a loose wire on one of the brushes in the starter (my problem). Could be positional and that is why it tested out OK. Drop the starter, take it apart, replace the contacts and plunger, clean the armature and field (it will be gunky), clean the gears and bearings then relube with a good synthetic grease, check the brushes (have new brushes on hand, this will garantee that you won't need them), reassemble, then reinstall.

Heres a few links:

http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/starter.htm

http://www.fixinrams.com/id11.html
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 06:04 PM
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From: Melbourne, Florida
I too think its the points in the starter. Here's the link for Larry B's

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

My son has a 96 Cummins with 260k on it. It did the same thing. I tried to get him to buy the contactors but he choose to reverse the two. That was a year ago and its still doing fine.

Dave
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Old Nov 14, 2005 | 09:49 PM
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Wait for the "wait to start light to go out"

Honestly, mine turns over maybe 1/2-1 turn before it fires.. 12 valve thing..
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Eskimo
Wait for the "wait to start light to go out"

Honestly, mine turns over maybe 1/2-1 turn before it fires.. 12 valve thing..
I have to go with Eskimo here. I never wait for but I found about a month ago on a hunt the temps got down below 30f I needed to wait or it sounded like it was not going to go.

Randy
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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From: pa
I just had my pcm checked at the dealer & it was fine. the volts are reading right around 14.
if the slow cranking is caused from the starter then why would it be worse when the truck has been sitting & it's cold out?
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 01:32 PM
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How thick is your oil. Mine was slow then I put in 0/40 synthetic and it spins faster than ever. Or plug in the Blockheater.
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 426matt
I just had my pcm checked at the dealer & it was fine. the volts are reading right around 14.
if the slow cranking is caused from the starter then why would it be worse when the truck has been sitting & it's cold out?
Have a way to disprove this theory? A warm garage maybe? The starter is a good, reasonably priced place to start anway.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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alright guys, two new batteries & a new starter & still the same problem.
I even had the dealer pull the codes & nothing. the odd thing is if I leave it plugged in over night it starts up fine. but after work where I can't plug it in it doesn't even want to start.
any suggestions?
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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You can check the cables going to the starter from the battery. The cable to the starter on my '95 was really corroded near the connection to the started. You could see the insulation "bubbling". I cut off about 3" of the cable and reattached a new connector.

Seemed to help craking quite a bit.
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 11:17 PM
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I checked them.& even had them continuity tested.
I really dont know what else to do!
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 07:56 AM
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98 12v ctd quadcab 2500 auto. afe intake,autometer gauges, d25's, 275 injectors, 410 gears.285 bfg's, 2001 sport frontend.
I'm confused. Do you have a 12 or 24 valve? 275 (RV) injectors usually mean 24 v.
Verify the grid heater relays are dropping when you crank the engine?
Advanced the timing? That helped my winter starts. Do you have lots of white exhaust when it fires?
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:09 AM
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From: pa
I have a 12 valve,the only time a have a white smoke is when it is cold & I don't have it plugged in. then it's really slow cranking & it doesn't usualy fire up right away as it does usually but it clears out pretty quick.
how do you verify if the grid heater realay are dropping when I crank the engine?
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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From: Cold Lake, AB
Change to some thinner oil.
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