what are the differences between the p pumps? 94-97 and the trucks they go in for that matter. and waht are some problems i need to know about with the nv4500? would like a 5 spd. 12 valver. i would like it to be between a 350-400 hp tow monster. thanks

 

94-95 autos have 160hp pumps
94-95 manuals have 175hp pumps
96-98 autos have 180 hp pumps
96-98 manuals have 215 hp pumps

NV4500 problems are pretty much limited to 5th gear nut slipping off. Its a relatively common with a few available fixes. 350-400 is pretty easily attainable.

 

what would be needed for a 97 5 spd to acheive that much power and how much would i have to spend? id the fifth gear nut easily fixed??

 

Thats actually a good question. What sets the pump hp. Delivery valves? Or something internal?
Heres how to turn up any p-pump http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58

 

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I dont know all the differences but yes DVs and Cams are different

 

D/v's, Cam profile, Plunger and barrell assembly. On a 215 pump, a set of 370's a 10 or 100 plate, a bigger single (64/14) and a good clutch and your at 350 easy.
5th gear is in the tail of the NV and though I havent done one I understand it can be done with the tranny still in the truck
make your own fuel plate= free
370's=$300
Big single=$1500
strong clutch $900 (no labor)
add a GSK for fun=$100

 

you can get 350 on a 215 truck and never spend a dime. a #100 plate, afc mods,some timing and a washer gsk and you are over 350

 

add 370's and you're at 450

 

This is correct....

and so is what forestt said, you can get massive power so simply out of these trucks...

Believe it or not, i have 350 rwhp with my truck as it is in the sig, All that i have done to it is AFC work, a 100 plate, 370 injectors, 191 DV's and finally a K&N airfilter....

my limiting factors were a STOCK slipping clutch, the intense heat down here too, and the fact taht my 100 plate was only 2/3 forward, the AFC was all the way forward and starwheel at about 3/4 of way forward...

But man with a good clutch, all that you need is what Gunracer1 said... be smart and get a good clutch unlike some dum dum here in south texas.

Rick


Rick

 

Wheres a good place to get a bigger pump? I must have the 160. WIll that 215 work on a 95 auto? Whats is a GSK? I read about the washer trick but didnt pick up on what a GSK is? Youll have to get used to my ignorance for a while....lol

 

No need to worry..

THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and

I meant to say post.... sorry.....

Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways

Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......

PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

 

Great information. Looks like something I'd like to do. Will these mods effect the life of my engine? I have high miles already but im hoping to get another 250,000 out of it.

 

No problems here. 450 easy stock clutch didn't like it, it gave out 4 months ago.

 

GSK is in reference to "Governor Spring Kit", There are kits that let you alter the governor so it can rev to 3000 called a 3KGSK, , 4KGSK for 4000 rpm limit ( you need heavier valve springs with this to keep the valves from "floating") and even 5000 GSK's....don't know if I'd want that big engine revving that high !

 

Great thanks. Now here's another question. Do you have to buy a GSK before doing that washer trick? Isnt that all the washer is doing, same thing the GSK is?