12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Q about adjusting timing

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Old May 22, 2006 | 02:20 AM
  #1  
first4age's Avatar
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From: Bay Area
Q about adjusting timing

I'm currently doing my KDP and Waterpump. I notice the pump gear is there so I'm looking to advance the timing too. I searched the board and came up with the procedures (http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm).

Do I need the SPX Miller 6860 kit? Has anyone done it without the kit?
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Old May 22, 2006 | 05:23 AM
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You can do it without the kit if you are really on a budget but you will need a dial indicator. Having done mine I would buy the kit. Do a search for cheap timing tools and oil drain plug. This should get you a wealth of info on the procedure. Good luck, its well worth the aggrevation.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 08:09 AM
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2 dial indicators and mounts make the job much easier. I use one dial (with extension) on the top of the piston and one on the pump to be able to read everything directly. Makes it dead accurate. I would recommend using the delivery valve dial indicator adapter as well as a barring tool and delivery valve socket. These are available individually from Miller and make the job easier.

Not hard to do timing you just need to make sure to keep everything surgically clean when the pump is open.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 10:05 AM
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The tools are available from snapon online also. They are reqsonably cheap if you dont buy the dial indicator. You will need an extension for the dial indicator if you dont use theirs. Quick delivery also.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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An old oil drain plug from a cummins like ours can be drilled and used to hold the indicator. It has the same threads.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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From: Wet Coast, Canada
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE
An old oil drain plug from a cummins like ours can be drilled and used to hold the indicator. It has the same threads.
________________

Thats what I did. Took a hour or so of monkeying arround but it was worth it IMO since I had all the other pieces already.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 07:07 AM
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From: Southeastern Michigan
This might help: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1

Their are more photos in my gallery.

Out of desperation and fiddling with a gauge stand, I came up with this. I just happened to have one left over from when I switched to a magnetic plug. It worked out well.

Somewhere out there is a thread where I describe how to "convert" the plug to hold the gauge, but it is pretty self explainatory. Good luck KD
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Old May 24, 2006 | 01:53 AM
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first4age's Avatar
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Cool. I'm going to go the low budget method. I called Miller yesterday for the Engine Timing Kit and they wanted $263.XX for it. $263.XX for a one time use tool! I'm pretty sure 75% of the kit is for the dial indictator.

I did some research and I found this. http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1954. This is similar to the Miller 'Adapter, Dial Indicator'? I already have a dial indicator.

Also, is the Barring Tool 7471B the same as 7471A? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OTC-C...spagenameZWD1V
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Old May 24, 2006 | 07:33 AM
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Thats a good price for the extension. If you go the drain plug route, you will not need the extension at all. Just the delivery valve socket is the only special tool.

As far as barring the engine, going backwards is easy, just use the alternator nut. But going forward (or normal rotation) is tough. I ended up making a little bracket that bolts to the harmonic balancer using the balancer bolts.

I would take a pic but I loaned it out and it is MIA. Need to make another. It basically looks like a harmonic balancer puller, but has a socket welded to it in the center. I remove 3 balancer bolts and install it. Then I bar the engine over with a ratchet. You could rig up something similiar, with just a little metal bending, dirlling, maybe a weld or two, or you could rig up this?:

Ok it is set up kind of like in this pic, but mine was homemade. I can't see why this would not work either:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37714

but with mine, I used flat stock and welded it up so if you look at the pic, you can get the general idea. The elongated holes are used for the bolts that hold the balancer on, and the round center hole gets a bolt and nut. That bolt and nut are what you put your ratchet on to turn the engine.

Now that I think about it, I don't see why using the puller in the pic would not work. As long as you install a nut and bolt in the center for socket/ratchet.

If any one sees a reason why it would not work, please say so!! Don't want to misinform. Good luck, KD
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