Just a quick question....

I would like to get a good "flush" performed on my CTD. With 170K, and the 3RD owner, I want to know if I can use that Prestone kit that goes into the heater hose or not? I like the idea of flushing insted of the drain-fill____run times three!

Will that check valve keep me from doing that?

(by the way, when I was done I was going to take that plastic hose nozzle out and add a brass piece insted. (No leaks!)

Tom

 

IMO there is no replacement for running the motor, if you insist on using a flush kit to fill the system up again then I suggest that you get a few extra inches of whatever size hose that is and add it on, then take it out when you are done rather than cut it into the middle of the heater hose adding two more potential leak points.

I prefer to use a flush chemical for a short while before putting in the new coolant. I used to think it was just a waste of money but I seen the inside of my mercedes' head was filthy, I ended up adding the chemical to crystal clear water and it looked horrible when it was ready to drain. A couple months later I looked in the head and seen it was as clean as a whistle.

 

but the problem is - you really need to backflush it to clean out the heater core.....those things are quite expensive to replace.

 

good idea BoostdCTD-

Maybe another hose would be the BEST non-intrusive set-up. Question though....which stuff did you use for the flush chemical? Prestone? Another?

Tom

so I guess the check valve will not interfere?


Tom

 

I used Zerex flush chemical (you'll probably need 2 bottles). It will require a few more flushes but in my case it made a huge difference in the system. Flush 3 times, then pour the chemical in, drive 300-500 miles, flush 3 times, then put your antifreeze in. It worked out be about a weeks driving so I just finished the cycle the next weekend after starting.

 

Maybe I'm sticking my neck out by relying on memory but is there even enough room to install one of those flush tees?
I seem to recall only metal lines with very short hoses.

 

Yes- I just put the flush "T" in- there is room, but just.

The problem I had was in getting all the water I flushed with...out- to add the six gallons of coolant (that it calls for). I think I read a previous post that said to jack the rear of the truck up to get all the water to drain out.

After spending several hours with the Preston brand flush (following all the directions) I found I could only get a little more than 3 gallons of pre-mix coolant in. I drained it on garage floor that had a good pitch- but it was'nt enough- I guess? I think I have around 3 gallons on tap water trapped in the block now mixed with the 3 gallons on premix coolant.

 

Pre-mix coolant is a bad idea IMO. After my third flush, assuming the water is crystal clear I figure out how much capacity the system has then divide that by 2 and pour it in. Then if there is any room left I top off with water, lets the system mix it and also ensures a 50/50 mix. You'll never come close to getting all the water out of your CTD but the hill will help getting a little extra fluid out.

 

You know,

I'm not feeling very confident based on some posts here. I guess as long as the tee is in place and the engine is running, the Prestone flush thing works....I guess. But the problem is, or sounds like, the system is NOT circulating well. Is that right? I wonder if the flushing thing is a good idea?

If I put the kit in there, run the engine, flush with water from hose till only clear comes out, add two bottles of Prestone "cleaner", drive for few days......Does that seem right?

Then reconnect tee, flush with hose again for quite a while (to get chemical out), STOP. Come back in a few hours, park truck on hill w/ engine facing down hill, drain with removing lower hose, (emptying radiator overflow-radiator-some of the block) put all back together, add three or so gallons of prestone, add water till full......Am I getting this right?

How many gallons of Prestone?

Tom

 

The way I do is to measure how much water comes out on the final drain, figure out how much water is left in the engine, add that much straight antifreeze, then top it off with 50/50 mix.

If you have hard water it's highly recommended you use distilled water for your final rinse and in the 50/50 mix.

 

Yes that sounds right Tom. The flush kit is basically used as a quicker fill point than standing there at the overflow.

I think that is complicating it Bill, if the system holds exactly 6 gallons then if you flushed the system out properly it has pure water in it. So if you want a 50/50 mix you need exactly 3 gallons of 100% antifreeze, then whatever else fits in the system (water) is to top off makes it a 50/50 mix.

You know, the distilled water thing is quite controversial. I used to do it with hard water then I was told not to, so I did it with distilled. Then the utmost authority on our Mercedes diesels (consultant to Mercedes-Benz of North America) told me that the antifreeze is designed to be used with tap water, by using distilled water ions will form in the system and may create problems. Perhaps this was specific to the Mercedes antifreeze? I don't know but after using that stuff once I've came to the conclusion that in the future I'll either use Evan's waterless or this Mercedes coolant. It feels like it has the lubricity of a lightweight engine oil (I was also told Honda makes a good coolant ).... Prestone to me feels no different than water.

 

Well I'm happy to see so much different input on this topic- but of course I'm more confused than ever!! As far as using the distilled water for the final flush I see a problem- having just done the flush- it would take alot of distilled water, and still no assurance that you pushed all the tap water out!?

I'll say this- that I am sure of- waiting to do a flush and change is too risky with this engine. I see now that you can't be sure of moving all the old product out of the block. Best bet is to do it often so even if there is some old coolant it wouldn't harm things too much. Is every year too often?!

 

My usual method is no flush, just dump whatever comes out every two years and add 50/50 anti-freeze water. That way you don't need to worry about the right percents. Seems to work just fine but if an engine has 100k five year old coolant best to flush.

Jeff not sure on the no distilled call but I sure wouldn't want to put the tap water from my well in the truck. My water turns to rock if you let it sit overnight.

Hard water that you often find in the west makes the grey scum you sometimes see floating on top of the radiator coolant.
Water with high sulfides like the east has causes corrosion.

 

How about this for a happy medium, get 3 gallons of distilled water then whatever drains out before the final flush you can refill with that, run it and drain the radiator and such to put the coolant back in?

I'd much rather prefer to do it once and do it right. I would not go through the hassle of the flush chemical and all everytime, maybe every couple/few times. I'm not sure how long my MB went without flushing but it was filthy inside (wish I would have had a picture of the water, if that is what you want to call it ). I'm halfway debating of doing the same on my Talon. I am actually getting a little fed up with cooling systems, I think when I get my CTD I'll just bite the bullet and buy some of the stuff that never needs replacing (and runs under 0psig so there are no hose failures). At $25/gal it gets a bit steep for 6 of them... but I'll never have to buy another hose, radiator, have to worry about a leak, or overheating, the system will become maintenance free (maybe a new thermostat every 5yrs or so). This is the way I think it should be anyway.

In my experience the local well companies hit good water at say 80ft but feel inclined to go to like 200ft because it is a uh, bigger supply.... Surely they aren't biased that they are getting paid by the foot. So when you are done you not only have more money into the well, need a bigger pump, the deeper water generally tends to have a bigger problem with sulfur and such.

 

OK- here's today update: It's been five days since I flushed and added the 50/50 mix- I left work and went to lunch, on my return to work I was backing into a parking space and smelled antifreeze. I got out and saw a small pundle just about where I put the truck in reverse and backed into the space with a trail back to my truck. Opened the hood and had steaming coolant on the engine- just under the flush "T"!! (on the exhaust manifold) There was no leaking coolant at that time. When I left work and drove to another work site (running time around 1 hour) there was no leaking coolant.

I'm thinking there was a trapped air pocket that pressurized and blew out around the weak screw clamps at the the flush "T". Just a theory? Any ideas guys?