This has been going on for about 1-1/2 years now. My 96 has been losing power, mileage and the torque curve has been changing slowly over this time. The engine has been modified, and it used to practically pull itself out of the truck at 1300 rpm. Now it comes alive at 1800 rpm, and not nearly as alive as it used to. Standing WOT, it used to hit, with effort, redline @ 3000. Now standing WOT, it will jump easily to 3500. Mileage used to be around 18-19, now 15 or so. Acceleration is way down, even starting on a hill, I have to feather the clutch because there is zero torque at low rpm. I have had the injection pump checked, it is ok, the lift pump checked, ok, change all filters, changed overflow valve, valve adjustment recently. I can still hit 35 lbs of boost. The exhaust gauge does not work, so I cannot give any info about temps. It puts out a little black smoke at full throttle but not much. It starts instantly, it always has. The noise in the cab seems a little quieter than it used to, about the only good thing about this. I have had three mechanics look at this, no luck. I have heard, and I have read quite a bit about how the timing gear can slip on the shaft. It seems that this is the problem, but I would like some feedback before I tear into it. I will take care of the KDP when I do the work. As a new member to this forum, I look forward to any help, thanks.

 

fill out ur signature so we know what kinda truck u have...and what you have done to it...then we can try and help

 

Uh-Oh. I thought that my signature would be automatic as I listed the mods when I registered, guess not.
1996 Started with 215 hp stock TST #10 plate, 4" exhaust, K&N filter, ported, gasket matched exhaust manifold, adjustable torque elbow, power locs front/rear, rancho 9000x in cab adjustable shocks, boost, temp gauges, runs on WVO.

 

Sounds like timing to me. If fuel restriction would deffenitely not give you more rpm. Also with the torque curve moving up from 1300 to 1800rpm, I would sure think timing. But usually it slips BACK, not foreward. Maybe someone else would know more.

 

Thanks, I will just keep on this and see what others have to say. I would like to fix and get my truck back.

 

i posted this on another thread here have someone check the diaphram in the AFC housing. my mileage went from 21- 12mpg and my power/ smoke doesnt come on till 6 psi of boost and or around 1800 rpm where as it used to be right off the line.

I took the AFC off of mine and the smoke and low end power came back, of course the mileage probably wasnt the best still be soon as i get that fixed i suspect i will get back what i am missing.

check it out good luck

 

Thanks. I have heard from another source that the AFC diaphram could be the culprit. I would rather take a few easier routes before I go deep. No matter what, I still have to deal with the KDP.

 

good thing is the diaphram can be done without removing the pump so cost is minimal.

I only hope it is my problem

 

My truck has a similar powerloss and it's the same year. Difference being I'm not running WVO yet. Has this by any chance happened since you converted to wvo? What system are you using? Dual tank/single with blend/kerosene/crazy snake oil mix?? I know it's so obvious you have probably thought about that already....
(as an aside I'd be really interested in knowing what conversion you made and how you like it I am about to go that route too and our trucks are very similar it seems from your signature)

 

I had the system installed as my wifes company paid for it, what a deal. It is a dual tank, with the radiator heating the main tank and fuel lines. From the tank (50gal) it goes through a small filter, and water separator, then through the 6 port valve, to the lift pump. I have a oil pan heater along with my block heater, so I plug in the engine at night, and it is warm in the AM. It makes for a far faster switch-over to the veg. I filter my oil to 1 micron using a filter housing with the oil pushed through using my compressor. I filter 10 gal in about 2 minutes. The truck runs with absolutely no difference. Power is the same. My power loss problem started before the switch, so I do not think the WVO is the problem. I use real oil, vs. hydrogenated, whenever I can. The hydrogenated is not bad in itself, it just takes more heat, especially in the filters to make it work. In the cold it gets very thick, and if your filters are not heated, it can coat the filter, preventing anything from passing through. It is not for everybody, as you need time to collect the oil, let it settle, and filter it, but judging from the abilities of the people who write posts, the hassle could be ok. For me it is easy, and I have to admit, I smile as I pass the pump, I have not filled my tank in 6 months.

 

Baja thanks for the info on the conversion. I'm jealous.... It's truly not for everyone but the world of biofuels seems to be changing faster now. I am sure more convenient solutions are just over the horizon. Here's hoping anyway. I will give it a try very soon

Good luck with your power loss problem. I hope it isn't your pump

 

I didnt catch you were running WVO, i have been told by the local pump shop, neils injection and pump in SR that he is seeing more and more WVO P7100 pumps coming in gummed up and needing rebuilds definately be sure to have your filtration dialed in otherwise the savings might be short

 

To 96 Ram: good luck on the conversion. Google "SVO" and go from there. There are lots of conversions and tons information out there. Be careful as some of it is junk, but after comparing different systems, you will see.
To ddestruel: thanks for the heads up. My research has confirmed that the p7100 loves the oil, but there are two real catches. One is filtering, you are correct about that, and thats why I go to 1 micron, the other is heat. Give your engine cold SVO and you will be in a world of hurt in a short time.

 

Im posting this for other people as a follow up.

My star wheel was all the way forward the spring was so loose you could slide it around and the afc housing was all the way forward. in my case also the power slowly disapeared as did the umph off the line. it got so bad that off the line if i didnt feather my clutch the truck would almost stall and in some cases did, even with bigger injectors things were just as bad. once the boost was past 6-8 psi the truck ripped and the smoke was steady because the fuel plate was full forward and gov arm was adjusted...........

three month later still chasing the problem, Joel at J&H commented to me one day that there is a allan head stud with lock nut that is used for adjusting the anaroid arm that if the anaroid is too far back no amount of sspring loosening will every allow it to travel out of the way of the gov and allow the gov. arm to fully travel the fuel plate. on the back of the afc housing there is a thin tin cover that sits on the outside of the diaphream housing, that has a tit sticking out of the center of it and is held in place by two break off screws. when i backed off the break off screws and exposed the allen head stud and lock nut i discovered that my allan stud had backed itself out and was laying loosely inside the protective tit housing. Thus my anaroid arm was as far back as it could get and regardless of any other adjustments was never going to travel far enought o get out of the way. I tightened it back up then loosened the nut and cranked it in a few more turns and wow theres the smoke.




A side note three weeks after getting the truck dialed back in.... actually a weeka and a 1/2 ago i got a load of water in my fuel from a chevron station (IF THE PUMP IS PUMPING SLOW QUIT PUMPING, IT IS A SIGN THAT THE FILTRATION SYSTEM IS HAVING ISSUES SEPERATING THE FUEL) long story short 5miles after filling up the water in fuel light came on, the truck started bucking, blowing white smoke and back firing. Put in 4 bottles of fuel stabilizer and a bottle of redline lube as soon as i could get off 80 and find a kragen. Too little too late. had to park the truck, had a seminar to attend.


That was thursday 2/9, drained 14 gallons out and then drove the truck home late 2/10 ran the tank down and filled up with 26 gallons of fuel the water in fuel still came on....... but truck ran a little better still blew white smoke. contacted chevron on the following monday 2/13 and had them fax me the complaint form in turn they want all recipts back and a detailed description of what happened returned next week. 2/14 had a repair shop drain tank and change filter, and verify water in fuel light was on. water in fuel light is off but now the truck still bucks, backfires and blows white smoke at 2000-2300 rpm........ mileage is down too.... Guess what injection pump is coming off and getting rebuilt truck went to J&H on friday 2/17 hopefully i will see her soon.

So now just so i can vent about this and give everyone a heads up on the smoke screw and also on the warning about when filling up. So for now i pay the bill for the repairs and tank draining, but im am compiling the receipts incase they refuse to compensate me.