PLEASE HELP.. coolant pushing out overflow
12-17-2009, 07:43 AM
#16
Administrator
Could be the belt, could also be the impeller slipping on the WP shaft.
Change the belt, and if at all in doubt about the WP, at least get the gasket and check the impeller. ( I would just replace it while I was in there....)
Change the belt, and if at all in doubt about the WP, at least get the gasket and check the impeller. ( I would just replace it while I was in there....)
12-17-2009, 01:13 PM
#17
Administrator
ok because of lack of money I have been checking what I can, but w/o $ I cant buy parts
but heres some updates.. my coolant is frothy looking especially in the overflow resevior and after I heat up and it blows cold air thru the heater. and my truck is a stick NOT AUTO. I really am thinking when I get enough $ together Im going to first buy, water pump, thermostat, clutch fan and possibly radiator ( my radiator is greasy and has some corrosion Im guessing the oil cooler is internal to the radiator??) oil looks good It fairly clean and isnt frothy or white looks good from what I can tell.
my thinking is that these components are old and have presumably 243k miles on them so I need to replace anyways last owner put alot of front end parts. maybe Ill just sell it and get a different cummins im not to fond of 4:11 gears anyways like the torque but I dont pull much and I drive hwy alot so 70 is like 2500 rpm although it takes off like a rocket even fully loaded...
but heres some updates.. my coolant is frothy looking especially in the overflow resevior and after I heat up and it blows cold air thru the heater. and my truck is a stick NOT AUTO. I really am thinking when I get enough $ together Im going to first buy, water pump, thermostat, clutch fan and possibly radiator ( my radiator is greasy and has some corrosion Im guessing the oil cooler is internal to the radiator??) oil looks good It fairly clean and isnt frothy or white looks good from what I can tell.
my thinking is that these components are old and have presumably 243k miles on them so I need to replace anyways last owner put alot of front end parts. maybe Ill just sell it and get a different cummins im not to fond of 4:11 gears anyways like the torque but I dont pull much and I drive hwy alot so 70 is like 2500 rpm although it takes off like a rocket even fully loaded...
Since you have a manual transmission, you do not have an oil cooler. The oil cooler is for the auto transmission trucks to help cool the transmission fluid (not engine oil). There is a second one in the radiator, but again that is for the auto transmission trucks.
The radiator having oil residue is somewhat normal given that the crankcase breather vents to a catch bottle just behind the radiator fan which tends to make a mess of things on the back of the radiator and front of the engine over time.
I am also thinking that you might have a head gasket issue. Especially since this happens more when you are hard on it like you said earlier. Making the engine work hard significantly increases cylinder pressures which can push the head up enough to leak past the head gasket, or through the gasket if it's bad.
The heater core is the highest point in the system (i think) and would get air bound first (thus no heat in the cab).
Do you have your radiator blocked off? If not, that can explain it running cold, especially given your northern location.
12-17-2009, 05:16 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Scotts Valley, Ca
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i DONT REMEMBER SAYING THAT IT overheats when im on the throttle or working it hard just the opposite it works like normal under load..
well what the....
today I purposely got on it on the freeway on the way home 3000+ RPM 90MPH FOR EXTENDED PERIOD OF times. didnt even really get to 190 stayed in the normal range, it hit close to 190 a couple times when I hit traffic stop and go and it blew kinda cold for a few seconds but when i EXITED THE fwy I tried an experiment at every light or stop I tried keeping it at 1500 rpms or more and drive in lower gear so I would stay around 2000 rpms and it didnt overheat on the guage or blow cold air at all then when I got home and left it idle while I opened the gate when I got back in the truck it was blowing cold so I brought the rpms up and it started blowin warm again...
and by the way I never once took it off def/floor and hottest setting and full blast fan...
more and more im thinking wp, belt, thermostat and flush the rad and see where that gets me...
any and all input is appreciated thank you and Merry Christmas
well what the....
today I purposely got on it on the freeway on the way home 3000+ RPM 90MPH FOR EXTENDED PERIOD OF times. didnt even really get to 190 stayed in the normal range, it hit close to 190 a couple times when I hit traffic stop and go and it blew kinda cold for a few seconds but when i EXITED THE fwy I tried an experiment at every light or stop I tried keeping it at 1500 rpms or more and drive in lower gear so I would stay around 2000 rpms and it didnt overheat on the guage or blow cold air at all then when I got home and left it idle while I opened the gate when I got back in the truck it was blowing cold so I brought the rpms up and it started blowin warm again...
and by the way I never once took it off def/floor and hottest setting and full blast fan...
more and more im thinking wp, belt, thermostat and flush the rad and see where that gets me...
any and all input is appreciated thank you and Merry Christmas
12-19-2009, 09:33 AM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Scotts Valley, Ca
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it def is related to something with flow, doesn't take long to start blowing cold air in the heater then if I keep the rpms high it kicks back in with warm air and actually latley it hasnt pushed much of the coolant out although its getting low again from spillage and stuff
12-19-2009, 08:59 PM
#22
Registered User
it def is related to something with flow, doesn't take long to start blowing cold air in the heater then if I keep the rpms high it kicks back in with warm air and actually latley it hasnt pushed much of the coolant out although its getting low again from spillage and stuff
12-19-2009, 10:23 PM
#23
Registered User
I think the impellers are worn out on the water pump. Doesn't explain why it's pushing out coolant though.
What about: head gasket leak=coolant pushing out=low coolant=poor heat at idle because less coolant flowing. Just a thought.
What about: head gasket leak=coolant pushing out=low coolant=poor heat at idle because less coolant flowing. Just a thought.
12-20-2009, 03:47 PM
#25
Registered User
it"s like i said , your vacuum is not strong enough to control the heater controls... a simple test would be to check the temperature of the heater hoses in the engine compartment
12-20-2009, 07:23 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Scotts Valley, Ca
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how does that explain the push of the coolant out and the temp guage climbing?? at one time I was thinking vacuum cuz my 4x4 doesn't kick in anymore and It seems to be vacuum related but i could be wrong, guess I should of been a mechanic instead of a roofer
12-20-2009, 11:43 PM
#27
Registered User
refer to post # 7
12-21-2009, 09:57 AM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had that happen on a Bronco I have down in Haiti. Wound up taking the vicsous coupling apart, drlling holes and bolting it back together so that the fan spins all the time. It had resistance when I would turn it, but it was still bad and wouldn't work right.