Going to do the timing on my truck and read the post about the oil drain plug fitting the D/V and would like to know how much the dial indicator pin needs to protrude thru the botom of the threads on the drain plug? I'm not sure my pin is long enough and want to fab up something prior to ripping it apart. BTW
great tip on the drain plug who ever it was that posted it (after three hours of reading I was a little blurry)

 

I'm thinking that was me! Anyways, I'm going off of memory, but my el cheapo harbor frieght dial indicator gauge was plenty long enough. I will go and measure it if my buddy does have it (we do the tool exchange thing, but he has a habit of not bringing crap back).

I drilled the oil drain plug 2 ways:

1) thru the middle (drill bit into the recess where the 3/8ths inch ratchet would fit, the drill bit size should be as close to the OD of the shaft on your gauge, but still allow it to slide in the hole. Needs to be nice and true, a drill press is good for this.

2) sideways or 90 degrees to the first hole for a set screw (you will need to tap threads in this hole for the set screw). The set screw should be closer to the top or flanged part of the drain plug to give you clearance.

Just don't over tighten the set screw and damage your gauge. As far as position, the drain plug is a little long, so, I just used a washer or bushing as a spacer between the DV holder and drain plug flange.

The whole set up worked very nice. So, to do my timing, I did the drop valve method to determine TDC, marked the flywheel, then removed the delivery valve (the DV socket was the only special tool that I needed), set up the gauge using the drain plug, then rotated engine per timing instructions.

So, I guess what I am getting at is, if you have a gauge, then make the drain plug adapter, the only special tool you will need is the DV socket. It is kind of tough to rotate the engine forward (or normal rotation-can't use the alternator nut for this) which you will need to do, so, I made a little bracket to bolt on the flywheel for turning the engine in both directions. Before I made the bracket, I did turn it by using a wrench on one of the balancer hold down bolts, but that put allot of stress on the bolt.

Hopefully that helps, I would like to post a pic, if someone can tell how? Kevin

 

OK, I have images in my gallery, just pending approval from moderator. Good luck!

Heres an attempt to post pics

 

just wondering, what oil drain plug, and where is it? i dont exactly get it!

 

Most exellent kd460 thank you
I was mainly worryed the pin length on my DI wasnt long enough to reach down the bore but from your pictures I can see it will be plenty. Sorry mr Snap-on guy Kevin just cost you a C-note LOL


Hey 12V
The plug is the oil pan drain plug

 

This little gizmo is your oil drin plug from the mighty Cummins engine. I bought a magnetized one so I had this one laying around.

I was checking my timing for the first time, and had a heck of a time with a dial gauge and a magnetic stand. I was looking for some type of adapter to fit into the delivery valve holder for the gauge. For some reason, I grabbed my spare oil plug and it threaded in there perfectly.

So, I then drilled it to fit the gauge and drilled and tapped for the set screw, and it works really well. I think I have mentioned it in a post or two since, but not much. I was kind of surpirised when Ratsun started asking about it.

Not bad for the price of a drain plug versus the snap on stuff, plus no need to buy the extended gauge either. Like I mentioned earlier, the only special tool required for a 12 valve timing would be the Delivery Valve socket (about $50) if you use/make this.

I inherited my cheapness from my father, and in all honesty, the money I saved looks better in my pocket then someone elses!

 

That's awsome guys , Kd460 , do you mind if i print this thread off and use it to build my own setup?

I have another question also , in locating TDC, how do you perform the "valve drop method" i am scared to death of dropping it clear inside the cylinder! What did you use to release the retainer , and put it all back together?

 

Here's what I used to release the retainers:


You've got to make sure you're pretty close to TDC or the valve WILL fall into the cylinder. My magnetic base was MIA when I set my TDC marks, so I tacked a couple pieces of stock together and held them to the heater lines with vicegrips.

 

Drop valve method is nothing more than tightening the valve adjuster down some. It does not require any special tools or valve spring compressor. You do not remove any keepers, springs or whatever/

The goal here it to tighten the valve down so it extends down deeper into the combustion chamber/cylinder. Then you rotate the engine slowly by hand till the piston comes in contact with the valve. You now mark the harmonic balancer using some reference point on the timing gear cover.

You then rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the same thing happens, then you mark the harmonic balancer again. TDC will be exactly in between those two marks.

Put the valve back to it's normal position, and then go ahead with the timing thing. I'll see if I can find a link or a post on the EXACT instructions, as this was just a brief explanation on how to do the drop valve method.

I might add, I never rotated the engine a complete 360 degrees with the drain plug adapter/dial gauge in place. I just had it in place for the slight movements to measure lift. I have no idea if any damage can occur if some did rotate the engine 360 with it in place, so don't do it.

I can't wait to see my idea being sold on ebay , wonder when that's gonna happen . This item can be reproduced for personal use only, any reproduction for sale is forbidden and subject to royalties paid to the guy who figured it out! Kevin

 

Great idea on the modified drain plug, KD. Kudos to you for coming up with that.

When doing the drop valve method for finding TDC, I get the motor coming up to TDC on the compression stroke, tighten the valve down, rotate until the piston comes in contact and mark the balancer. I then back off the valve, rotate to after TDC, tighten the valve up the same amount and rotate back until the piston hits the valve again and then mark the balancer. Doing it this way negates the chance of the valve moving at the top of the intake/exhaust stroke. To find the exact midpoint between the marks, I cut a piece of masking tape to fit the marks and peel it back 1/2 way.

 

Thanks berner, also found this link, look at post #5 by JGK:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...p+valve+timing

 

Great instructions and tips in that thread.

I got my timing set at a diesel shop the first time. They replaced the nut and lockwasher with a taller nut that's tapered at the top to allow oil to get down the fill tube. No lockwasher is required. I can safely torque it to 180 without worrying about peeling the threads off of the injection pump. I'll try to get a picture of it and post it.

 

Great thread everyone!


I have studied a fair amount, and bought a drain plug, but have yet to go in and do my own adjustment. I do have to purchase a delivery valve socket first, but was thinking about trying to make my own of it as well.


thanks

 

Berner, I'd like to see that pic or find out where you got that nut!

 

Ok guys , i was talking this over with my old man last night , and he came up with a good ? , one that i couldn't answer , why can't we just use a dial indicator with a magnetic base?