12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

p7100

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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 05:50 PM
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From: COLORADO SPRINGS
p7100

ok ive got a 98 12v 150k. this is the second time this has happened to me in the 12 years ive owned this truck. my idle has dropped to 500rmp it will stall when i come to a stop.(automatic) the first time was around 30k, still under warrenty i took it to the dealer. they fixed it by doing a valve adjustment, so i was told, no charge. this time its not under warrenty, is it possible for the p7100 to drop out of timmming because its has affected my milage as well (worse). waiting for the truck to get higher rmps at a stop takes forever. my 0-15 is like 20 min. help.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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First things first, reset your idle speed, back of the P7100, takes a 10 MM wrench.

750-800 in gear.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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My observation is the timing slips on all of them if it was even correct in the first place.
Have it set to 15-16 for best power and fuel economy.

Assuming the slow acceleration came on all of the sudden and no one has been messing with the pump my bet is the AFC diaphragm has cracked.
Inexpensive part, easy replacement.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:37 PM
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From: COLORADO SPRINGS
ive been told not to reset idle screw on back of p pump due to it being a temp fix that can do more harm if the realy proplem isnt fix. is seting the timming something i can do or not.(does it have to come off to reset) yes all of the suuden nobody messing with it.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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My 12v had that problem when I bought it 5 years ago.

It would stall on me during quick clutch pedal disenagement. And it would have a hard time starting. I adjusted the idle screw ... 45K+ later, it's still fine. It's now at 223,XXX.
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 04:26 AM
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It does kinda does sound like timing. Does the engine pop an crack when your accelerating? If so it a lack of fuel.
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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From: COLORADO SPRINGS
yes it does sputter when accelerating but only lower rpms and really bad when i first start it. is the lack of fuel or low fuel pres. the cause of bad mpgs?
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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I would second the slipped timing. Not something that's really hard, but a good basic understanding of general mechanical fundamentals and a couple hundred bucks in specialized tools is what's required. I'd take it to a shop and have it done to about 16, as infidel said.
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 09:39 AM
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From: Montana
Timing instructions> http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm

Idle adjustment> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adjustm...d_Gen-Idle.htm
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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From: COLORADO SPRINGS
ok ill take it in to have timming fixed, also today i lost all boost sounded like a tire blew, now 2500 rpms gets me 40-45mph thats it. what just broke? and lots and lots of black smoke 3 times more than normal, did it at take off dead stop i was only about 20mph but under lots of boost than bam nothing.
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 06:07 PM
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From: COLORADO SPRINGS
**** rubber boot clamp was loose boost back all is good. shold i replace these with new ones or was this a fluke?
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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I had problems blowing off boots (boot slipping from out of the clamp) for a while, under moderate pressure from 25-32 psi. Had to play with all the elbows a little bit to get a good angle on them, as well as clean all clamping areas from oil solved it.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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The trick to keep the boots on is to remove the boot, clean the surfaces well then spray with the cheapest hairspray you can find before slipping back together.

Can't remember the exact torque value called for on the boot clamps but seem to recall 70 inch/lbs. When you actually use a torque wrench on the clamps are way tighter than a person would normally do by feel alone.
Good idea to use a torque wrench at least once to get a feel for how tight they should be.

Also watch out for the lower passenger side boot. It looks like it clears the sharp fender sheet metal but when it balloons up under boost it can get cut. I usually bend the metal back to make sure it has plenty of clearance.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by infidel
The trick to keep the boots on is to remove the boot, clean the surfaces well then spray with the cheapest hairspray you can find before slipping back together.

Can't remember the exact torque value called for on the boot clamps but seem to recall 70 inch/lbs. When you actually use a torque wrench on the clamps are way tighter than a person would normally do by feel alone.
Good idea to use a torque wrench at least once to get a feel for how tight they should be.

Also watch out for the lower passenger side boot. It looks like it clears the sharp fender sheet metal but when it balloons up under boost it can get cut. I usually bend the metal back to make sure it has plenty of clearance.
Good Tips.. I took pliers to the fender near the IC connections to bend the metal down and back to make a smooth surface for the boots to rub on if they have to. I put on aftermarket boots and it made that swelling problem go away.

Setting the idle isn't the end of the world. All pumps wear and eventually need the idle set.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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From: COLORADO SPRINGS
yes and thats my point. what in the pump wore out that caused the idle to drop, if i up the idle am i going to hurt the pump or would it be best to have the pump looked at. im takin it in to have the timming checked so mabe they will find somthing worn out.
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