p7100
p7100
ok ive got a 98 12v 150k. this is the second time this has happened to me in the 12 years ive owned this truck. my idle has dropped to 500rmp it will stall when i come to a stop.(automatic) the first time was around 30k, still under warrenty i took it to the dealer. they fixed it by doing a valve adjustment, so i was told, no charge. this time its not under warrenty, is it possible for the p7100 to drop out of timmming because its has affected my milage as well (worse). waiting for the truck to get higher rmps at a stop takes forever. my 0-15 is like 20 min. help.
My observation is the timing slips on all of them if it was even correct in the first place.
Have it set to 15-16 for best power and fuel economy.
Assuming the slow acceleration came on all of the sudden and no one has been messing with the pump my bet is the AFC diaphragm has cracked.
Inexpensive part, easy replacement.
Have it set to 15-16 for best power and fuel economy.
Assuming the slow acceleration came on all of the sudden and no one has been messing with the pump my bet is the AFC diaphragm has cracked.
Inexpensive part, easy replacement.
ive been told not to reset idle screw on back of p pump due to it being a temp fix that can do more harm if the realy proplem isnt fix. is seting the timming something i can do or not.(does it have to come off to reset) yes all of the suuden nobody messing with it.
My 12v had that problem when I bought it 5 years ago.
It would stall on me during quick clutch pedal disenagement. And it would have a hard time starting. I adjusted the idle screw ... 45K+ later, it's still fine. It's now at 223,XXX.
It would stall on me during quick clutch pedal disenagement. And it would have a hard time starting. I adjusted the idle screw ... 45K+ later, it's still fine. It's now at 223,XXX.
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I would second the slipped timing. Not something that's really hard, but a good basic understanding of general mechanical fundamentals and a couple hundred bucks in specialized tools is what's required. I'd take it to a shop and have it done to about 16, as infidel said.
Timing instructions> http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
Idle adjustment> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adjustm...d_Gen-Idle.htm
Idle adjustment> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adjustm...d_Gen-Idle.htm
ok ill take it in to have timming fixed, also today i lost all boost sounded like a tire blew, now 2500 rpms gets me 40-45mph thats it. what just broke? and lots and lots of black smoke 3 times more than normal, did it at take off dead stop i was only about 20mph but under lots of boost than bam nothing.
I had problems blowing off boots (boot slipping from out of the clamp) for a while, under moderate pressure from 25-32 psi. Had to play with all the elbows a little bit to get a good angle on them, as well as clean all clamping areas from oil solved it.
The trick to keep the boots on is to remove the boot, clean the surfaces well then spray with the cheapest hairspray you can find before slipping back together.
Can't remember the exact torque value called for on the boot clamps but seem to recall 70 inch/lbs. When you actually use a torque wrench on the clamps are way tighter than a person would normally do by feel alone.
Good idea to use a torque wrench at least once to get a feel for how tight they should be.
Also watch out for the lower passenger side boot. It looks like it clears the sharp fender sheet metal but when it balloons up under boost it can get cut. I usually bend the metal back to make sure it has plenty of clearance.
Can't remember the exact torque value called for on the boot clamps but seem to recall 70 inch/lbs. When you actually use a torque wrench on the clamps are way tighter than a person would normally do by feel alone.
Good idea to use a torque wrench at least once to get a feel for how tight they should be.
Also watch out for the lower passenger side boot. It looks like it clears the sharp fender sheet metal but when it balloons up under boost it can get cut. I usually bend the metal back to make sure it has plenty of clearance.
The trick to keep the boots on is to remove the boot, clean the surfaces well then spray with the cheapest hairspray you can find before slipping back together.
Can't remember the exact torque value called for on the boot clamps but seem to recall 70 inch/lbs. When you actually use a torque wrench on the clamps are way tighter than a person would normally do by feel alone.
Good idea to use a torque wrench at least once to get a feel for how tight they should be.
Also watch out for the lower passenger side boot. It looks like it clears the sharp fender sheet metal but when it balloons up under boost it can get cut. I usually bend the metal back to make sure it has plenty of clearance.
Can't remember the exact torque value called for on the boot clamps but seem to recall 70 inch/lbs. When you actually use a torque wrench on the clamps are way tighter than a person would normally do by feel alone.
Good idea to use a torque wrench at least once to get a feel for how tight they should be.
Also watch out for the lower passenger side boot. It looks like it clears the sharp fender sheet metal but when it balloons up under boost it can get cut. I usually bend the metal back to make sure it has plenty of clearance.
Setting the idle isn't the end of the world. All pumps wear and eventually need the idle set.
yes and thats my point. what in the pump wore out that caused the idle to drop, if i up the idle am i going to hurt the pump or would it be best to have the pump looked at. im takin it in to have the timming checked so mabe they will find somthing worn out.


