12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Need some 12 valve advice

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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:31 PM
  #1  
RAMRODD's Avatar
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From: Dakotas
Need some 12 valve advice

I just got a 98 12 valve with 200K the motor sounds good at idle and running down the road. But the previous owner who had it before me put in a 0 fuel plate, which was followed by a new auto trans (stock)

Exhaust is a stock downpipe, to some flex pipe to a smoke stack.

Truck has stock turbo (appears to be in great shape) I got a max of 25 boost going down the road runs about 5psi on a light throtal at 65. Normal ?

Truck is smokey (Black) and egts get to hot. I do have the stock fuel plate, but I was thinking a little better then stock would be nice. I want to use this truck as a run around truck especially when the roads are a mess. I wont do any towing with it, I have 2 other trucks for that. I just want a little more power, little smoke and reliability for the auto. What should I do??
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 01:23 PM
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Here are some options.
slide the plate rearward as far as possible and try that.

Get another plate, like a 5.

Grind the stock plate some and try that.

EGT's get too hot? How hot?
What exhaust housing is on the turbo? Stock would be a 12 maybe someone swapped it for a 16 or something else.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 01:24 PM
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From: clinton, tn
You need to ditch the 0 plate and go wit a #10 plate or ur tranny will b on the way out again soon. That is also why u have so much smoke is bc with a 0 plate there is barely any restriction of the fuel to the engine. A #10 plate will give u good power over stock, decrease your smoke and make your tranny last a lot longer. Your turbo boost is about normal i think. Sumthing else to look at if you r just going to b daily driving it to get around then there are timing adjustmest u can make to the truck to get a lot better fuel milage, try a search for that and c wat u find
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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From: Michigan
Grind the stock plate into a #10 profile, put it in and drive it.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Hey Ram...You could keep the zero plate in (As Fox said..pull the plate back also )..With that year, you should have the 215 pump...Just thighten up you AFC a bit...I would pull back the star screw and maybe move back the AFC housing about half ways...It will be a little of trial and error to reduce the black smoke and EGT problem and still have good performance,you may be overfueling and putting out the fire ....You could also twick the smoke screw...I have mine just touching the the diaphram plate...Hope this helps..

Bit of fine tuning on all 4 adjustments..to get everything in sync..
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 09:15 PM
  #6  
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From: Brighton, Michigan
I run a #10 moved slightly forward and tweaked AFC. EGT can hit 900-1000 WOT. Just around back country roads EGT stays 700 or less. It will puff a cloud of smoke when skinny pedal is quickly moved to WOT.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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From: Dakotas
I just got a #8 plate. When you guys say slide the plate back, your talking about the fuel plate right??

Putting a new grill guard bumper on tomarow then will be puttinh on the fuel plate and boost fooler.

Right now I hit 1500 egt's easy, so I have been driving with a very light foot.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by RAMRODD
I just got a #8 plate. When you guys say slide the plate back, your talking about the fuel plate right??

Putting a new grill guard bumper on tomarow then will be puttinh on the fuel plate and boost fooler.

Right now I hit 1500 egt's easy, so I have been driving with a very light foot.
You say the trany is rebuilt but all stock. If so you need to go with no more than a #10 plate or you will be replacing your trans again. 240 -250 hp is all the stock trans can hold. That will be 24 -25 lbs on your boost gauge. If you have more power than that kiss your trans goodby. Even at 250 hp you better be very carefull not to let your lock up clutch on your converter slip or it will be over very shortly for your trans.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RAMRODD
I just got a #8 plate. When you guys say slide the plate back, your talking about the fuel plate right??

Putting a new grill guard bumper on tomarow then will be puttinh on the fuel plate and boost fooler.

Right now I hit 1500 egt's easy, so I have been driving with a very light foot.
Thats right...pull the fuel plate back...1500 egt is pretty high...I know the 215 pumps fuel harder than a stock 175..but still...Got my 175 to fuel really hard also with the lazer cut DV and never seen 1500..

Maybe also check for a slight boost leak and check if your wastegate is hanging open...
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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csa
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From: COLORADO SPRINGS
hey was the truck allways an auto? If so you more than likely do not have 215 pump as they were for standards..and i agree either go to a #5-8 plate or grind the stock one down .. i ran a 0 plate in mine and took about 6 mnths to kill stock tranny(auto) ground down plate to #10 and runs about same..remember black smoke is just unburnt fuel..
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by csa
hey was the truck allways an auto? If so you more than likely do not have 215 pump as they were for standards..and i agree either go to a #5-8 plate or grind the stock one down .. i ran a 0 plate in mine and took about 6 mnths to kill stock tranny(auto) ground down plate to #10 and runs about same..remember black smoke is just unburnt fuel..
A 10 plate in a factory auto truck is very mild. Maybe 220 hp a 10 plate in a 96 or 97 factory stick is 380 hp. If the truck has a 215 hp p pump in it then I would definatly use a much more mild plate. I have a #10 in mine and it was very mild until I did other mods. It is a good plate for towing with the automatic.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #12  
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From: Dakotas
Is there a label on the pump that will say what size it is?
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Check just in front of the pump...There is a long label with your timing and other code numbers..As I remember its your CPA code..Thats the first check..It will tell you the pump out of the factory...Unless it was replaced since..

There is also a label on the pump...dam if I could remember where it is...I think it was on the back side of the pump..

Anyone....
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 08:52 AM
  #14  
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by Diesel Dave2
Check just in front of the pump...There is a long label with your timing and other code numbers..As I remember its your CPA code..Thats the first check..It will tell you the pump out of the factory...Unless it was replaced since..

There is also a label on the pump...dam if I could remember where it is...I think it was on the back side of the pump..

Anyone....
I think you mean CPL number. Somewhere, I think on Piers diesel research site theres a chart with all the truck years , models and what each plate is rated at for hp. I do not think they even rate the 10 plate for an automatic but it works well atleast in the 96 and 97 automatic.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 07:03 PM
  #15  
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From: Dakotas
Got my bumper on looks

I was going to put on my fuel plate this afternoon but ran short on time. I backed off the AFC, exhaust was a lot cleaner and egts were down.

I found that the wastgate sensor hose right off the turbo has been cut and plugged. And on the injection pump it is rigged to get boost pressure off of the intake manifold. What do you make of this??
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