My Dads 12 V
My Dads 12 V
Why does his truck have so much more power when it shifts into overdrive. The truck seems sluggish in first and second, gets better in third, then lays you back in O.D. Does it have something to do with the gov? He has some type of aftermarket turbo. Not sure what it is. It will do around 40-45lbs of boost. He also has a 5" exhaust. Thanks.
The best way I can describe it is that the torque converter is locking up, so you are getting that power to the ground better. I'm sure someone else will chime in with a more specific/better answer.
Depending on his turbo...Does it pour a lot of smoke before the power comes on???I know with my truck when I turn up the fuel the truck is a dog until the smoke clears and the turbo catchs up then full power...
THats different...Something is holding the fuel back at lower RPM..Could be the AFC or even the governor...You didn't mentioned if he has a fuel plate or any other mods?The basics are AFC full forward including full plate.If still no smoke then a governor adjustment.But even then....You have very good boost...You would think that too big of a turbo the smoke would be pouring out...I'm stumped on this one..
when your torque converter locks it goes from slipping and sloshing tranny fluid around in the converter to a direct drive. what you are feeling is ALL the power getting to the ground instead of the loss in an unlocked converter. a higher efficiency converter will yeild less of a difference in an unlocked and locked converter.
He has a Hughes torque converter. They told him it would hold the amount of power he has. It is a 98 dodge. When he bought it the old owner said the fuel plate was slid?? Not sure what that means. All I know is when it hits overdrive it lays you back in the seat. Its like another motor under the hood. One guy we talked to said to change the gov spring. Does this make sense. I can tell you when his truck hits O.D. the truck in my sig wont keep up. Thanks.
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Whats the max boost in each gear? The lower gears won't allow much boost, because there is little load applied to the engine. With a tight AFC slid further back, there won't be much smoke, even with a bigger single. Whats the shift point at in the tranny? It might be shifting earlier than you'd want, so when the AFC does start moving, it grabs the next gear and has to start over again.
The boost only goes to 20ish in the first and second gear. Even with a 15,500lb trailer behind it. When it hits third the boost goes up a little, then up to
40ish in o.d. Its like the fuel pump has some electronic part that tell it to turn up the fuel when it sees o.d. and locked up. In o.d. you dont even know the trailer is behind it.
40ish in o.d. Its like the fuel pump has some electronic part that tell it to turn up the fuel when it sees o.d. and locked up. In o.d. you dont even know the trailer is behind it.
how many rpms are you guys turning? the fix for your problem might be cheaper than a new converter... try a gsk (preferrably a 4k kit). it sounds like when the converter is unlocked (1st, 2nd, 3rd) you are turning more than 2200 rpms and this is where the stock springs start defueling so you cant build boost if you dont have the fuel. then when your converter locks your rpms are lower but you have more fuel because the gov springs arnt defueling yet. 4k kit will let you rip like a taco bell diet as it says in my sig. you can do a 4k kit without valve springs as long as you dont run the motor past 3200 rpm (i stay below 3000 just to be safe). another fairly cheap mod is changing your timing. make sure you do the gsk first because timing without a gsk could give you less power because you dont have the fueling at upper rpms.
When I bought my 98 12v It did the same thing. I thought something was worng.Thats just how the tranny performs.It dosent lock up till you hit overdrive. I put in a BD valve body and that helped a ton.
how many rpms are you guys turning? the fix for your problem might be cheaper than a new converter... try a gsk (preferrably a 4k kit). it sounds like when the converter is unlocked (1st, 2nd, 3rd) you are turning more than 2200 rpms and this is where the stock springs start defueling so you cant build boost if you dont have the fuel. then when your converter locks your rpms are lower but you have more fuel because the gov springs arnt defueling yet. 4k kit will let you rip like a taco bell diet as it says in my sig. you can do a 4k kit without valve springs as long as you dont run the motor past 3200 rpm (i stay below 3000 just to be safe). another fairly cheap mod is changing your timing. make sure you do the gsk first because timing without a gsk could give you less power because you dont have the fueling at upper rpms.
samasarus, please tell me you have govenor springs.... its not in your sig. the 4kgsk is nothing more than different springs on a centrifugal govenor in the injection pump. if you can swap a fuel plate you can do a gsk. what happens is as the engine turns faster, the springs compress. once they pass a certain point, there is linear defueling as the rpms go up, so if youre at 2900 with stock govenor springs you might as well put a nuse around your engine and choke the h3ll out of it. 4kgsk will give you full fuel to 4k so you can build more boost at higher rpms because it is more fuel and more rpms = more volume, faster turbine speed... you get it. make sense? the directions for the gsk install confused me because it used all the technical names for the parts and i had no idea what they were at the time. i'd be glad to type up laymans term directions to help yall out. the gsk makes it a completely different machine. one more thing, get the 4kgsk if you order one. i garuntee if you get the 3kgsk, you will upgrade to the 4k kit down the road. my advice... do it once and do it right.


