mr_diy

hey guys,

it's been a few weeks since I've posted (several deaths in the family) but I've purchased a 3 car Kaufman wedge and want to know what reliable/safe mods I should do to my rig to get some more GO.

It's a big trailer and I can tell it's there even empty... add 3 cars and that's an easy 10k more pounds.

My rig is completely stock other than the 285 tires and is an auto. 96k original miles on it... what should I do?

here's the pics of the rig/trailer

Totallyrad

You're probably going to need air bags for the rear. Open up the exhaust and go light on any performance add-ons because the tranny will be the first to go.

mr_diy

4" exhaust and airbags are in the plans, thanks.

I want to buy a built tranny but the trailer needs to make me some money before I'd consider that a wise investment.

I know to get a boost, egt and tranny temp guage kit. please explain the BHAF, Fuel Plates and any basic mods to wake this thing up. My dad has a 7.3 StruggleStroke and he is talking a LOT of junk. Help me make him understand

Totallyrad

You can search here and get lots of info and pics of the BHAF. It's just a larger filter and is less restrictive than the stocker. Right now, don't sweat the talk. If you add the egt gauge you can add a little fuel and not hurt anything as long as you're ******* it all the time. You have to remember that the Cummins engine can quickly produce more torque than the stock trans can handle with just a few modifications. Save your money for the trans before you get heavy into modding the engine. You need reliability first. What brake controller are you running?

atc250r

I wouldn't do much more than the exhaust and the BHAF (big honkin' air filter) until the trans was built. You could also pull the silencer ring out of the turbo if you just want some more noise from it. When I had my '97 auto with just a fuel plate I would slip the torque converter clutch when pulling about 5,000 lbs. There is a ton of info on here about plates and such. The plate basically controls the fuel delivery of your injection pump. Aftermarket plates fuel the engine more heavily and make more power. I would definitely add a fuel pressure gauge to the list of gauges and I would do that right away in order to check the fuel pressure into the injection pump. Chances are pretty good that your OFV (over flow valve) spring is no longer strong enough to create optimum pressure into the inj pump. You want to see about 20psi at idle and 30psi at 3000rpm from what I've read. I was seeing about half that on mine and now with the pressure up where it belongs the truck seems to run a lot better when pulling a trailer and also when first started in the morning. Just dropping in a fuel plate should be enough to spank your pop's Ferd unless he's got a bunch done to it but seeing as you're going to be pulling and pulling pretty heavy I wouldn't do it without first getting a decent trans in it.

John

atc250r

Lots of good info here:

DTR Tech Facts

BHAF Heatshield Template

BHAF Part Numbers

Random Site w/BHAF Pics

Hope that stuff helps.

John

infidel

Try this http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58
and this
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm

mr_diy

you guys rock... thanks for the links and info. Dad's truck is stock and will always be that way (old school LOL)

guess I need to look into transmission companies asap then. I don't wanna do a TC and Valve body on a stocker when I can get a warranted trans. for a little more y'know?

but after I have a built transmission, BHAF, fuel plate (what # and how far pushed forward?) 4" exhaust and all my guages/fuel psi right.... what kind of power can I expect and would the fuel mileage get better? I do NOT want mpg to suffer for power... I drive A LOT.

atc250r

You're pretty much right on the money now. I would guess either make your own plate like a #100 or get a #5 or #6 plate. I had a #6 in my 1997 Auto and it ran really well. I would put it in the stock location and then go from there depending on EGT's.

Plate Chart:



Here is a pretty good thread from someone who just had some similar questions about their 12V 5 spd:

Some Good Info

John

infidel

I like the #10 in my tow rig, stock position (stocker isn't always in the center, mark position before removal).
Makes for not having to watch the the pyro all the time.

mr_diy

Thanks, that chart helps except it DOESN'T list a 96 auto 4x4 (my rig). The #5 and #6 plates look promising... what happens if they are too much? in other words.. what are the downsides to "OVERFUELING" ??? also- what is the advantage of a 3gsk?

What tranny comp. do you guys recommend? I'll be searching until I get a response. thanks again

I don't think it will be long before my 12v is Jerking cars OFF my wedge LOL

infidel

Ignore the chart, they're just trying to cover their butts if you burn up your drivetrain.
Drive sensible and plan on upgrading your tranny and any plate will work.
I have a Suncoast trans, seems like a lot of folks like Goerend.
The advantage of a GSK is it lets you reach higher rpms before defueling instead of the governor cutting off fuel and basically going gutless at higher rpms. Great for pulling a hill in a lower gear without losing speed.

mr_diy

gotcha, thanks.

I found suncoast on google and theirs was like $2700. Goerend was $3550. what other options are out there? I was expecting about $2000 +/-

what kind of power does the suncoast recommend? what kind of warranty do these companies offer?

Totallyrad

Better look close, those prices probably didn't include the torque converter or any shafts. You can add a little fuel with a plate or even twist the screw a little but you'll be tapping into your mileage pretty quickly and besides, you're just wanting to blow a little smoke on dad, right? If you really want to get him wound up, best him in the area of fuel mileage. That's where us old guys hate to get beat.

oldblues

hi
you can install a valve body kit and it will greatly extend the trany life .

i love my transgo TFOD-DIESEL

also a mystery switch to lock the convertor is a pluss !