Lots of Smoke
Lots of Smoke
My truck pumps out white-blue smoke when it's first started, a lot more than the usual cold diesel smoke. It also misses when it is cold. I've been looking around and it seems the possible fixes are:
1. Replace fuel filter
2. Lift pump replacement
2. Get injectors tested/replaced
3. adjust timing
I replaced the fuel filter, the lift pump and cleaned out the filter screen on the pre-heater. I pulled the first 3 injectors and they looked good. I did NOT have them tested. I'm considering moving the injection pump around and the forum that has the most information are for 1st Gen engines. Is the timing adjusted the same way on a 2nd Gen engine? Do I just loosen the nuts on the pump and bump it an 1/16 or 1/8? If adjusting the timing is that simple does it make sense to try it. 1995 12v 157,000 miles
Thanks - Jeff
1. Replace fuel filter
2. Lift pump replacement
2. Get injectors tested/replaced
3. adjust timing
I replaced the fuel filter, the lift pump and cleaned out the filter screen on the pre-heater. I pulled the first 3 injectors and they looked good. I did NOT have them tested. I'm considering moving the injection pump around and the forum that has the most information are for 1st Gen engines. Is the timing adjusted the same way on a 2nd Gen engine? Do I just loosen the nuts on the pump and bump it an 1/16 or 1/8? If adjusting the timing is that simple does it make sense to try it. 1995 12v 157,000 miles
Thanks - Jeff
I once had the same problem as you. My truck would blow the white smoke when it was cold out, but when the motor warmed up, it would smooth out. Here are a few things to check out.
1) on the injection pump toward the lower half you will see a yellow wire that plugs into it. Make sure you are getting a good connection.
2)On the intake side, on the intake, there are 2 sensors, one controlls the grid heaters and the other is what is called the KSB switch. There are 2 wires running into it. (it is the one closest to the firewall) Make sure that when it is colder than 60*F outside that you get power going into it and going out of it.
This test can only be done when the motor is cold and the air temp is 60*F
3) If you dont have power coming out of it but power going into it then the sensor may need replaced.
4) Check out the section called "How To" it should be the first section under the 1st Gen section forums.
Need any more help, feel free to ask!
Wheelo
1) on the injection pump toward the lower half you will see a yellow wire that plugs into it. Make sure you are getting a good connection.
2)On the intake side, on the intake, there are 2 sensors, one controlls the grid heaters and the other is what is called the KSB switch. There are 2 wires running into it. (it is the one closest to the firewall) Make sure that when it is colder than 60*F outside that you get power going into it and going out of it.
This test can only be done when the motor is cold and the air temp is 60*F
3) If you dont have power coming out of it but power going into it then the sensor may need replaced.
4) Check out the section called "How To" it should be the first section under the 1st Gen section forums.
Need any more help, feel free to ask!
Wheelo
''Is the timing adjusted the same way on a 2nd Gen engine?''
No. Your p-pump does not rotate relative to the timing case--don't loosen those nuts and try it! You need a few hundred bucks worth of specialty tools to set the timing on the p-pump...it's generally more cost effective to just have a reputable diesel shop set the timing for you, but that's up to you. From my limited p-pump knowledge, I would recommend doing a search on the overflow valve and see what that turns up. After that, a timing adjustment is probably in order, as the p-pumps will slip over time.
Oh, fill out your sig so we know what you're driving every time you post w/out you having to write it out.
greg
No. Your p-pump does not rotate relative to the timing case--don't loosen those nuts and try it! You need a few hundred bucks worth of specialty tools to set the timing on the p-pump...it's generally more cost effective to just have a reputable diesel shop set the timing for you, but that's up to you. From my limited p-pump knowledge, I would recommend doing a search on the overflow valve and see what that turns up. After that, a timing adjustment is probably in order, as the p-pumps will slip over time.
Oh, fill out your sig so we know what you're driving every time you post w/out you having to write it out.
greg
The cold miss, lots of cold smoke, and lower than "used to be" power are symptoms of the timing sliding back. If the truck has not been retimed that is most likely your problem.
The P pump requires removal and relocation of the drive gear on a tapered shaft to reset the timing. Do not try to move the pump like on the older VE equipped trucks.
Call around to speciality diesel performance shops. No one uses the complex tools and lift measurement process anymore, it is just too inaccurate and exposes the pump to dirt. Get it to a shop that uses a pulse box and the cost of timing will be way less than the cost of the old fashioned tool set and doing it yourself.
The P pump requires removal and relocation of the drive gear on a tapered shaft to reset the timing. Do not try to move the pump like on the older VE equipped trucks.
Call around to speciality diesel performance shops. No one uses the complex tools and lift measurement process anymore, it is just too inaccurate and exposes the pump to dirt. Get it to a shop that uses a pulse box and the cost of timing will be way less than the cost of the old fashioned tool set and doing it yourself.
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