Whats goin on everybody, new to the site but not new to trucks.

Currently, I own a 1995 chevy 6.5TD, and am trying to sell it quickly...almost have it sold I think.

I am going to be looking to buy a 12V CTD of some kind, whether it be a 1st gen or 2nd gen I really do not know yet. It depends on which have the least amount of issues

Ok, the truck I WILL get (I am not settling for anything else) is an extended cab 4x4 12V CTD with a 5 speed.

What I want to know is, are there any known, recurring problems associated with the 12V and its respective 5 speed transmission?

What are the differences in these (if any) issues between the 1st and 2nd gen?

Are the engines themselves equally capable of handling more than stock power? If not, what has to be/should be done?

Any and all help is appreciated. TIA

 

Hey there. The really only two problems that come up (for the engine and the transmission, respectively) are the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin) and the 5th gear nut.

Do a seach for KDP here on the site. It will bring up a wealth of information.

The KDP is an alignment pin used in 12vs up to... I think 2002? It can wiggle its way out into the timing gears, and either fall through, or cause minor to very serious damage.

TST Products sells a kit to fix this KDP. It pretty much puts a tab over the pin so that there is no way it can fall out.

Here is a link to the tab:

http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=64

Here is a link to pictures I took of tabbing my KDP:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=143355

The 5th gear nut I do not have any experience with since both my Dodges are automatics. If it falls off, you will simply lose 5th gear in your transmission. As far as I know it does not cause any damage, you just can't use 5th gear. There are a couple fixes for this, such as welding it (like Box5 did) or replacing the shaft. Others will be able to help you more with that.

All in all the 12v paired with a 5spd is a very stout motor/tranny combination, as is a 12v paired with an upgraded automatic, so if you find your "dream truck" but it doesn't have a 5spd, don't steer away from it completely unless you MUST buy a truck with a 5spd, though there are a few members (Like Box5, again ) who converted their automatic truck over to a 5spd... but want to go back now! .

The engines are able of handling more power just fine, but you must remember that GAUGES. COME. FIRST! But you must also remember that when you upgrade one thing, the next thing becomes the next weakest link, which when you upgrade your power, is usually your automatic transmission or your clutch!

Anyway, hope this helps.

And welcome to the site!

Dennis

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I should have stated, I will not buy a truck with a stock automatic. If I find a truck with a goerends or something of the like in it, i'd probably get that...I just don't want to hassle with rebuilding/replacing the tranny.

 

Yeah, I hear you on that! I bought a stock automatic on my dually... and it died. But I got it rebuilt with a Goerend single disk and VB and now its great!

 

anybody else want to chime in?

 

Heres my precompiled check list been posted a few times


-----------------
Check fuel pump afc housing breakoff screw for pump mods, if its gone or paint it chips on AFC plug, there may be a plate or pump mods done.
Check intercooler hoses for cuts or wear, especially around the fenders.
If it has gauges, that will tell you everything you need to know.
Starter Contacts? - starter starts clicking Larrys Starter contacts.
Fuel Return line hoses replaced/are they leaking?- marine grade (12 and 24 valves leak, cause air in lines, hard to start)
KDP fixed? (A MUST!!!!) Tab $45 , Jig ($50 labor)
Tie rods if steering is loose
Lower ball joints (all tend to go bad if over 100k), check upper too.
Check hub/bearing assembly for play.
Track Bar - steering wander? (stock OEM track bar goes bad at 20k-40k) Use aftermarket, Lukes Link, or MOOG, or DT Trac Bar
Crank Sensor will go bad if Tach isn't working
Fuel solenoid - lots info on Dodgeram.org, most just burnout
Spare Fuel Relay (all will burn out in time, bad starter contacts will cause it to.)
Fluid Changed in Diffs and Transfer done on time? use dino GL-5, or Amsoil or Mobil1 GL5 ok. 80-90w, 140w if towing lots Mag Hytek rear diff cover is cool for towing.
Manual Gearbox fluid changed when? use only GL-4!
Replacing air box with AFE or Scotty is best. Hows the air box now? Is it clean or dirty? No FRAM!
Silencer Ring Gone? - causes more turbo whistle, no power gains
Cut off Plugged Cat/Resonator and Muffler? - less EGT's, more power and some noise, faster spool
Steer Shaft, if feel steering wheel goes clunk clunk, use Boergeson Steering Shaft
Steering Brace - steer wander? get Darins Steering brace, at Piers Diesel. The stock steering box is not supported, if left alone will crack from frame.
I have Cooper Tires, Discover AT, the best ones I've had luck with.
While braking if pulls left, needs hub, rotor/caliper new assembly. Defect from factory.
Serpentine Belt - Goodyear Gatorback, best belt around.
Oil filter - Fleetguard or Mopar only!
Air filter - Fleetguard or Mopar only!
Fuel filter - fleetguard or Mopar only! make sure to drain the pet valve for water... our trucks need clean fuel.
Fuel Preheater screen cleaned recently?
What oil used? Use a good oil, Rotella, Delo, Cummins, diesel rated etc...
Hows the 5th gear nut? Been fixed? Lugging in 5th causes it to come off, simple fix. $60
Oh, also... check turbo shaft for bearing play, remove the black rubber intake hose, pull shaft in and out, if there alot of play the bearing are worn and basically the turbo has been hot and not cooled down properly after hard runs. There will be play up and down, since it resides in a oil bath, don't worry about that.

Has the valves been adjusted recently? Usually at 25k, 50k, 100k, 150k, and 200k is a good schedule.

Check the timing too, when its cold the engine will sputter at 2k+ rpm's, it will blow white smoke, and stutter, the timing has slipped, no big deal, just have a shop retime it, 15 degrees is good. The P7100 tends to slip its timing over many miles....
Stock is 12.5 degrees for ours i believe.

Add some gauges, get a TST plate, 3k gov springs, advance the timing, do the above fixes, it will really wake up the truck. Does it have any mods?

Make sure and look for signs of rust on the doors at the bottom, where the sheetmetal folds around. This spot is known for rot.

Check u-joints for play, especially front axle!

Definitely check the trac bar for play.

Check the injectors for leaks where the line taps into them.

Check valve cover gaskets to see if they are upgraded or just sealed with RTV, the new ones are reusable rubber

 

Another list.... out of the archives

---------------------------
Good Sites
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/diesel_faq.htm (good for first time owners)
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1 (good one too for 1st owners)
http://www.dodgeram.org/support_pgs/diesel_ix.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/tro...2v_trouble.htm
Heres the site Diesel Site for Dodge, this is *the* site for Dodge's
http://www.turbodieselregister.com (the ultimate site)
http://www.dodgeram.org/ (good for spec's, and lots of other goodies)
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com (very good as well)

Power upgrade sites:
http://www.tstproducts.com
http://www.piersdiesel.com (the best guy to call)
http://www.wildcatdiesel.com
If 24v get and EZ-Edge Box, If 12v a TST cam plate, get gauges for any power upgrade first.
Most get a gauges, plate, gov springs and timing, more? then bigger clutch, injectors, timing done again, air and exhaust upgrades.... the insane power hungry get pretty wild after those basic upgrades.

Order Diesel Parts and goods:
http://www.genosgarage.com (i get all my filters here, cheaper, plus there Fleetguard/cummins brand)
Never buy parts/filtes from dealer, ripoff.


Advices -
Never let go below 55 or 1600rpm in 5th gear - 5th gear nut will break, thus no fifth gear, towing heavy 60mph shifts
caused by the 5speed is 1/2 splined not fully splined, if breaks there are aftermarket fixes and fully splined shafts and gears.
lugging 5th cause nut to vibrate off.
Cool UR Turbo - Cool Down periods, shutoff at 300 degrees http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm
Keep tank above 1/2 full - easier on lift pump, lift pumps on 12valve are good for 150k, 24valve known problems keeping psi, keep extra handy.
In cold days/nights, fill take as often as possible to avoid condensation in tank.
Use Rotella 15w-40, i use regular dino, at Walmart year round no problems.
Use Fleetguard air and oil filters. Frams/Wix/Delco/Napa will seperate oil paper element, clog oil passages!
PlugIn Truck when temps are freezing below 30 deg.
Buy and Install Gauges, Boost and EGT (exhaust and gas temps)
Fix your KDP!! (dowel pin) If not fixed, causes $3000 in shop fees
Since its a 5 speed, make sure to use only GL4 fluid in the manual tranny, GL5 will eat the brass synchros.
Goto Walmart and get the Power Service Fuel conditioner, if a 12v, the p7100 pump is oil lubricated, on the 24v its electric fuel lubricated,
thus the conditioner will help lube the fuel pump, prevent gelling, higher cetane, and easier starting.
Get 2 good Interstate batteries! Optimas are the best, but $.

Fixes or Upgrades -
Starter Contacts - Larrys Starter contacts, on ebay or http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge
Fuel Return line hoses - marine grade (12 and 24 valves leak, cause air in lines, hard to start)
KDP tabbed (A MUST!) Tab $45 park, Jig ($50 labor)
Tie rods if steering is loose
Lower ball joints (all tend to go bad if over 100k)
Track Bar - steering wander? (stock OEM track bar goes bad at 20k) Use aftermarket, Lukes Link, or MOOG
Crank Sensor will go bad if Tach isn't working
Fuel solenoid - lots info on Dodgeram
Spare Fuel Relay (all will burn out in time, bad starter contacts will cause it to.)
Synthetics in Diffs and Transfer, use Amsoil or Mobil1 GL5 ok. 80-90w, 140w if towing lots Mag Hytek rear diff cover is cool.
Remove Air boot, cut stock air box, stock air box is restricting stock, removing boot and cutting box is free power.
Silencer Ring Gone - causes more turbo whistle, no power gains
Cut off Cat and Muffler - less EGT's, more power and some noise, faster spool
Steer Shaft, if feel steering wheel goes clunk clunk, use Boergeson Steering Shaft
Steering Brace - steer wander? get Darins Steering brace, at Piers Diesel. The stock steering box is not supported, if left alone will crack from frame.
I have Cooper Tires, Discover AT, the best ones I've had luck with.
While braking if pulls left, needs hub, rotor/caliper new assembly. Defect from factory.
Serpentine Belt - Goodyear Gatorback, best belt around.
Oil filter - Fleetguard or Mopar only!
Air filter - Fleetguard or Mopar only!
Fuel filter - fleetguard or Mopar only! make sure to drain the pet **** for water every 2 tanks of fuel.



Scheduled maintenence
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm

 

holy crap, thats a lot of reading. thanks guys. i'll read at work tomorrow

 

Holler if we missed something.

Best years are 94-98 bosch p7100 pump.

Ideal years are 96-98 12v, had the 215hp pumps on the manuals.

If you can find a 98 12v, 6 sp, 4x4 quad cab, let me know.
Best year, get the new interior and the old pump.

93 and prior use the VE rotary pump.
98.5+ went to 24v and use the vp44 pump.

goto http://www.dodgeram.org for more information on the years.


Now if dodge would only have a way to sell a 2007 with a 12 valve motor, life would be grand!

 

Donate me an NV5600 and I'll show you one.

 

moral of the story, you'd be better off with a new truck. I speak from experience having done most of the repairs listed in the post above. i must say, however, the motor fires every time I hit the key. Now if I could only keep the rest of the thing together:

lewis

 

I'll have to somewhat agree on getting a new truck. I just spent problably another $500 on brakes trying to fix a hopping rear end fixed, check out my post a few days ago.

While its so tempting to go newer, I can't afford new new, only a newer used. And the ones I've seen around, 03-05 are beat up, tore up, and moded like no end.

Now, even though my 94 is old, I know what I got, theres no computer or "regenration dpf junk" it serves me well, and she deserves a good life till something major major goes wrong.

Yep, motor fires everytime, everything else on this truck has been replaced somewhat. Its almost new now... lol.

Note: Hard to justify a "paid off" truck versus one that comes "with payments"