I am planning to do my kdp soon so I am debating whether to order the TST kit or just make my own tab. What else comes in the kit that makes it cost $50?

Does the oil and or coolant need to be drained to do this? I need an oil change now but if it needs to be drainted for the kdp repair anyway then I will just hold off. Thanks!

 

Did mine like 6 months ago,you need to take off the top rad hose,the fan,the fan shroud,the balancer,the timing case,oil filler and maybe more.The reason its probably 50 bucks is it might come witha timing cover gasket and a new front main seal.Just buy the kit and do it right,if its only 50 bucks for all that thats a great deal.Look at the kit from piers as well.I would recommend doing the front main while youre in there.as far as the oil goes,it will sit in the pan but make sure you dont drop anything in there once the timing case is off.Some rags help.

 

The biggest thing with the kit is the main seal, it doesnt come with a gasket (it does come with RTV) IIRC the seal alone is like $45

 

Someone else did this and I'm going to do the same, I think it is the best.

 

That pin fix is neat.

I simply used some heavy coat-hanger wire. Works just fine.



Some using a punch, simply dimple the metal of the case around the pin effectively locking it in place.


-> While you're in there, be sure to check and re-torque the case-to-block bolts.

And yes, as others have stated, the crankshaft seal is what runs up the "Kit" prices. I snagged one from Ebay recently for $20.

 

I just ordered the TST kit, from what I saw, they also have and installation tool to gauge the depth of the seal as well, don't know if the normal Cummins seal has that or not.

Figured my truck will be with me for quite a while, whats 50 bucks.........

 

The Cummins seal kit comes with the depth setting/installation tool.

NOTE: The new seal should come premounted on a thin plastic sleeve. THIS IS NOT PACKING MATERIAL! The sleeve is used to guide the seal onto the cranshaft for the following reason ~

The new seals' inner lip (that which rides on the crankshaft) is coated with a layer of Teflon. Be sure to read and follow the seal install instruction to the letter which includes ~ DO NOT OIL THE NEW SEALING SURFACE. Once the new seal is properly installed on the dry crankshaft, the initial wiping action transfers some of the Teflon to the crankshaft's surface. The proper installation is imperative to it living a long life.

Hope this helps.

 

That works well. But if the pin is out you will have to pull the cover anyway. And it seems that most of them are out at least a little. Mine certianly was.

And I have wondered if the coathanger wire really is stiff enough.