Earlier this morning I tabbed my KDP, took about 5 hours to complete. It was a out about a 1/16, I have about 46,000 miles on my engine. Just thought others may want to know how far that tab is out on a lower mileage cummins diesel.

Oh yeah,, for others that are planning on tabbing theirs, taking the bolts off the fan assembly on the block was to me much easier then trying to take off the large fan bolt, seeing as I could never really break it loose. Once you have that assembly loose lift the fan shroud and fan assembly out together. Also those bolts on the Vibration Dampener, woooo.. they are on their good. Definetly need an extra hand to prevent the dampener pully from turning while you break those bolts loose. I eneded up using one of those craftsman rubber strap grips things.. usually see them on tv breaking tough stuff loose good for oil filters.. anyways.. the belt that is on the craftsman belt grip deviece was not long enough, I ended up buying a 30" 6 gruve serpintene belt $10.00 at Advanced Auto..... Cut the belt and then feeded it through the craftsman tool. You will need some sort of tool to prevent the one side of the belt slideing through the craftsman handle. I used a pair of vice grips. That seemed to take care of the dampener from turning when you are trying to loosen or tighten the 4 bolts. Hope that info. helps

7MMRUM

 

I usually use an air wrench to zap the dampener bolts off but when without air one wrench tightening a bolt while another wrench loosens another bolt will keep the dampener from turning.

Did you try whacking the large fan nut with a long drift and hand sledge?
It's always worked for me to get the fan off.

 

And put anitsieze when going back is another great idea for future dissasemble. Mine has the impression of the wack on it Ha Ha. I have had mine off a few other times since I did the tab and with the antisieze it is a breeze. Goodluck,,,Rick

 

The day after I bought my '97, I attempted the KDP fix. I used an air hammer to break the nut loose. Unfortunately, I believe I galled the nut. It's actually kind of strange; I was only able to loosen the nut to a certain point. I used a piece of stock locked in on the pulley bolts to secure the pulley, but the nut would not turn any more. I would tighten a 1/4 turn, and then loosen. I went back and forth like this for a while. I was only able to loosen the nut about two full turns. So, I just tightened up the nut and decided I would go to plan B as soon as possible. Until reading this thread, plan B was to cut the fan clutch off at the end of the water pump shaft, cut through the nut in two places on opposite sides along the length of the water pump shaft with my dremel, then break the nut off the shaft. Then after the KDP fix, I would just install a new fan clutch. However, I'll try it without removing the fan clutch from the water pump shaft.

When sliding the fan shroud up, did you need to do anything with the upper radiator hose?

 

I've never removed the fan shroud while doing a kdp fix. The fan will come out the top easily but only if the center of the fan hub is toward the drivers side. You then straddle the oil fill between two fan blades and rotate it.

 

Hey guys, I have a 98.5 24V and I know they have the KDP problem to. My ctd is being sent to Germany and I want to fix it while it's here so I can have a peace of mind. I know I can fix it, just need the instructions though. Can somebody give me a link to where the fix is so I can print it out. What parts will I need and how long will it take? Do I weld the KDP or use another method? Truck has 129,000
+/- miles and somebody told me if it hasn't came out by now it never will. Is that true? Much money am I looking at to? Your help will be appreciated!

 

13fox,
hello


IT CAN COME OUT AT ANY TIME!! get er done - also try tstproducts.com, as they have a kit with everything that you will need.

 

royta,

I did have to remove the fan shroud completely..and the upper radiator hose did have to be removed.. I'm sure their is a way to leave all of that their.. but it was easier to just get that stuff out, However when taking the whole fan assembly out, you need as much room as you can get because you are bringing the shroud and fan assembly out at the same time. So make sure that the coolant overflow bottle and wiper fluid bottle is out of the way.

I have air tools as well but opted not to use them for the fear of stripping something or rounding off a bolt. I tried to put a air ratchet on one of the dampener bolts, but those things are locked down to around 100 ft lbs and most air ratches are only 50 ft lbs.. so it wasn't budgin.

 

Well, removing the upper hose and fan shroud is a small price to pay to avoid having to buy a fan clutch. I would imagine that something like that IS NOT cheap at the dealership. Besides, I can drain the radiator and put in some nice clean fresh distilled water and coolant.

 

Thanks SHARPMACHINE! Does the kit also come with instructions?

 

SHARPMACHINE I checked out that kit and it says it's for 94-98 cummins. I am assuming it's for the 12v. Will it work on my 24v?

 

13FOX,

I would give them a call and ask, but would think that it would work, and if not they will hook you up. The kit does come with inst.. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I tabbed my KDP in early June. Have an early '98 12V. Hadn't moved at all in almost 100,000 miles. To hold the dampener from turnig I used a short piece of about 1 1/4" angle iron. Turned dampener until angle iron wedged between one of the two notches on dampener and one of the studs that hold the tach sensor on. Did same when retorquing it. Worked slick. This wasn't my idea. The downloaded instructions I was using suggested it.

I also took the three bolts out that hold entire fan bracket and assembly on and removed the assembly as one piece. Seemed easier than taking large nut off.

Rich P

 

Can someone explain the KDP fix for me? I have a 95 sittin on a stand in the shop thats goin in a retrofit app. and would like to do that kind of stuff to it while its out and easy to work on. Also what else should I do to it while its out?

I am a PSD guru but havent messed with a Cummins yet, kinda lookin forwrd to it.

 

Email me your address and I will email the repair info and parts numbers to you, as far as the explanation goes it is a dowel pin that centers and secures the gear housing to the engine and is known to come loose and fall down in the gears and do one of two things, either crack the case and cause a major oil leak or do very costly dammage to the gears and crank and it could possibly do both, it is a easy repair that does need to be done, as many as I have done and have helped do I would not drive a 94 to 00 a mile without securing it. Let me know and I will email you the info I have that I give out. So now what retrofit are you doing with a cummins??? I am wanting to try one on a 79 Ford F250 crew cab long bed I have ran across that is in super clean shape, that is my favorite body style for fords. Goodluck,,,Rick