im new to the diesel thing
no rust and never pulled a trailer! dont even have a hitch on it!
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Hardinsburg, Indiana
You got a virgin cummins for $1000, why doesnt this stuff ever happen to me
Dont set it on fire, I'll give you $1001 for it right now
What kinda trans does it have? If you do to many mods to a stock auto you will toast it in a hurry, a 5spd will handle it better. First off you need guages then do mods. As far as just making smoke I'm not sure what to tell ya but someone else will be along in a little while with more info? congrats on the truck and good luck with it.
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From: Wisconsin
If its a automatic and you don't have much money I would leave it alone till you have some money to play. You have a 160 hp truck if its an automatic, 180hp if its a stick. you could sneak up into the low 200's but if you get up in the mid 200s you will be replacing your trany very soon. The best bang for the buck is a tst fuel plate but you better get a very mild one or you will be sorry. That is about $150 or so. then a governor spring kit $60 or so. If its a stick it would be the same mods but 300 hp or so is easy to do.
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From: Hardinsburg, Indiana
Dont be sorry its a 5 spd. thats what you want!!!!!!!
You can grind up your own fuel plate for free, theres another thread with some good pictures somewhere on here about grinding fuel plates, I'll see if I can find it and post them up here later. Since you just got the truck you need to fix the kdp if it hasnt been done already and see if the previous owner fixed the 5th gear nut.
You can grind up your own fuel plate for free, theres another thread with some good pictures somewhere on here about grinding fuel plates, I'll see if I can find it and post them up here later. Since you just got the truck you need to fix the kdp if it hasnt been done already and see if the previous owner fixed the 5th gear nut.
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From: Place with no quail:(
It's not hard, just a little intimidating. Mostly basic wrenching, just be careful.
My revision of Rick's writeup-
To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
Here are some cutaway pics of a P-Pump, they should help you understand how things work- http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182
My revision of Rick's writeup-
To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
Here are some cutaway pics of a P-Pump, they should help you understand how things work- http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182
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Dont be sorry its a 5 spd. thats what you want!!!!!!!
You can grind up your own fuel plate for free, theres another thread with some good pictures somewhere on here about grinding fuel plates, I'll see if I can find it and post them up here later. Since you just got the truck you need to fix the kdp if it hasnt been done already and see if the previous owner fixed the 5th gear nut.
You can grind up your own fuel plate for free, theres another thread with some good pictures somewhere on here about grinding fuel plates, I'll see if I can find it and post them up here later. Since you just got the truck you need to fix the kdp if it hasnt been done already and see if the previous owner fixed the 5th gear nut.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Hardinsburg, Indiana
kdp is the "killer dowel pin", it is under the timing cover and can be fixed with a homemade jig or you can buy the kit for like $50, do a search on here for it, there are like a million posts about it and reading a few of those can probably help you more than I can. The 5th gear nut has been known to come off. Hasnt happened to me and I dont know if my truck has been fixed or not, I will just drive mine till something happens or I get a chance to check it out. I have heard people say it only happens on higher mileage, 200k+ mile trucks but I know a guy who had his come off at 102k miles. The way I understand it the nut will just back off and 5th gear will fall out. They say it doesnt usually hurt anything you just lose fifth gear, I've heard of people welding the nut, putting green loctite on it, I think, and re threading it so it is the right way, like I said I dont know too much about the 5th gear nut myself because I've never done it, I have researched it because I am afraid one day mine will go. Hope this helps ya
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From: Hardinsburg, Indiana
