I think i have an air leak.
I think i have an air leak.
Ok so before my new pump my truck would require 1-2 seconds of cranking to fire up. Then before I added the # 10 it took about 5-7 seconds after it sat for awhile and about 10 after a night of sitting. Now after installing the #10 it takes about 10 seconds all the time except in the mornings when its taking around 15 seconds of cranking with the peddle at half throttle. I had to remove the fuel line bolt that’s on the driver’s side to get the afc off when I installed the #10. so im thinking that may be the place is there anywhere else that is a common air leak on the pump I should check. The company that installed the pump also told me they thought my lp was going out. Anyone know a way to test that other than a fuel pressure gauge?
Chris
Chris
Try to put some clear hose or a clear filter before the input on the injection pump. Then you can see when youre getting air. Sometimes a leak in the return line will allow air to creep in overnight. Sometimes a slightly loose clamp will let air in on a hose under vacuum.
Ive even had air seep past push-lok connectors with push-lok hose, go figure.
Ive even had air seep past push-lok connectors with push-lok hose, go figure.
Try pressing the priming bulb on the lift pump before starting and see if it gets better. It does sound like you have an air leak to me though.
The common things to leak are the fuel preheater and the fuel lines. Both are tricky because they are very hard to tell if they have failed. If the lines are original, they probably need to be replaced anyways and I would recommend completely ditching the stock setup with a combination of rubber and steel and just going to all USCG approved hose. To test the fuel heater, you can try putting heavy grease in where the connector goes and see whether anything improves. Sometimes, the steel lines will crack but you are more likely to be able to see a problem with these if you really look around.
The common things to leak are the fuel preheater and the fuel lines. Both are tricky because they are very hard to tell if they have failed. If the lines are original, they probably need to be replaced anyways and I would recommend completely ditching the stock setup with a combination of rubber and steel and just going to all USCG approved hose. To test the fuel heater, you can try putting heavy grease in where the connector goes and see whether anything improves. Sometimes, the steel lines will crack but you are more likely to be able to see a problem with these if you really look around.
also if you will set the idle at about 800rpm it will start a little better usualy. It has helped on a lot of trucks that I have messed with. Its also better if you let it idle much. It wont cool down to much and get cylender wash.
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