i need a 95 front wheel bearing!!
.what do u guys think about the labour in a shop? 2 hours?
Quite a few folks opt to replace the axle u-joints at the same time because as far as labor goes you're almost there and if the bearings are shot the u-joints usually aren't far behind.
I just did mine today and it took about 45 min. The hub I got from car quest had the wrong pilot for my dually adapter so I had to order it from napa for 220. My truck has never seen salt so it almost dropped in my lap. I used to work on those salt queens and I really appreciate these salt free vehicles.
thanks guys appreciate it.....imguessing there's not much chance loosening that 1 3/4 nut without an impact gun is there....i can get my hands on a 3/4 inch breaker and i got steel pipes to extend it...doable?....i'll go to an all-u-can-eat before i stand on it...that may help
darn it...it frustrates me that i gotta buy the whole hub....life goes on...the boys over at napa told me that a new chevy will cost u 600$ to replace a hub....now if thats true then i dont feel so bad anymore
darn it...it frustrates me that i gotta buy the whole hub....life goes on...the boys over at napa told me that a new chevy will cost u 600$ to replace a hub....now if thats true then i dont feel so bad anymore
Life keeps sounding better all the time.
That's our incredible engineering departments trying to redesign parts to make vehicles cost prohibitive to keep repairing when out of warrantee. Really makes me want to keep buying more
The axle stub shaft nut is 1 11/16 socket. There is a cotter pin that should be removed BEFORE you remove the nut. It shouldn't be too bad. If all you have is a breaker bar, then that should be fine. An all you can eat restraunt??? GREAT!!!! Just don't get kicked out cause you don't know when to stop eating
Amarillo Texas has a steak house that advertises a free 72 oz steak if you can eat it in less than an hour. Otherwise it is about $100. for the meal. Good luck
That's our incredible engineering departments trying to redesign parts to make vehicles cost prohibitive to keep repairing when out of warrantee. Really makes me want to keep buying more
The axle stub shaft nut is 1 11/16 socket. There is a cotter pin that should be removed BEFORE you remove the nut. It shouldn't be too bad. If all you have is a breaker bar, then that should be fine. An all you can eat restraunt??? GREAT!!!! Just don't get kicked out cause you don't know when to stop eating
Amarillo Texas has a steak house that advertises a free 72 oz steak if you can eat it in less than an hour. Otherwise it is about $100. for the meal. Good luck
We changed them both out on my sons 94 and got them from NAPA. A little over $750 for both hubs and new bolts. Don't go cheap on something that is carrying your life and others. The bolts require a 9/16 inch 12 point I believe and we used Loctite when we put in the new ones. Be careful taking off the hubs not to move the axles around too much or you can damage the axles seals up in the axle housing.
Definitely follow Dieseldude's advice if you don't want a leak. I usually stuff a bunch of rags under the u-joint before starting to keep the axle in place.
I've run into enough hub nuts that won't budge even with my 800 ft/lbs in reverse impact that I now break the big nut loose before jacking the truck. Tires on the ground keep the whole axle from turning. I've had a few that took a breaker bar with a 5 foot cheater pipe. Do use penetrating oil, It's never happened to me but I've heard of times when the male threads of the axle come off with the nut. New axle time.
I've run into enough hub nuts that won't budge even with my 800 ft/lbs in reverse impact that I now break the big nut loose before jacking the truck. Tires on the ground keep the whole axle from turning. I've had a few that took a breaker bar with a 5 foot cheater pipe. Do use penetrating oil, It's never happened to me but I've heard of times when the male threads of the axle come off with the nut. New axle time.
shoptime
It depends on what your refering to in shop time , if I still had my shop and had all my stuff laid out from doing one side then the other 45-60min. but if had not done this truck before and a limited supply of tools maybe as much as 3-4hrs.
I replaced my drivers side hub and bearing assembly twice. The first one was from NAPA and was bad in one year. I noticed it when I replaced my rotors. The second was a Timken from autozone. I forget the exact price, but it was around $300 from Napa and around $250 from Autozone. Autozone aslo had a warranty.
The hub nut only came off with a 5ft cheater on the end of my breaker bar. The rest is fairly easy. Be careful with the axle not to damage the seals (I wasn't). I knocked the studs out with a hammer. One hit and they poped right out without damage to the thread. I got lucky, I guess. I drove them back in with a punch. That takes a while. Getting the assembly back on the axle and lined up also takes some patience.
The hub nut only came off with a 5ft cheater on the end of my breaker bar. The rest is fairly easy. Be careful with the axle not to damage the seals (I wasn't). I knocked the studs out with a hammer. One hit and they poped right out without damage to the thread. I got lucky, I guess. I drove them back in with a punch. That takes a while. Getting the assembly back on the axle and lined up also takes some patience.
u know what guys because i havent changed hubs before and it doesnt sound like abig labour job for the pros im gonna let them get it done....if they bust a seal or break something cause its ceased then they'll take care of it....its a95 and i get PLENTY of salt and snow up here and this thing never fits in a garage so EVERYTHING will be ceased
and im not very gentle and have a tendency to break lug nuts so i'll leave it to them...thanks alot though....if anyone has more prices to quote me then please do so...right now the best deal ive got is "carquest" at just under 200$ (american i think)
Andrew
and im not very gentle and have a tendency to break lug nuts so i'll leave it to them...thanks alot though....if anyone has more prices to quote me then please do so...right now the best deal ive got is "carquest" at just under 200$ (american i think)Andrew
UPDATE....well thats it wheel bearing almost blew up...i drove it to canadian tire ....wobbling...screeching ...smoke coming from the wheel...by the time i pulled into the parking lot there the brakes had heated up and i had to really press the pedal...270$ for the hub (canadian) and 140$ for the labour (canadian)...what can ya do?? luckily the axle seals never went and nothing was ever leaking out the axle tube
Originally posted by mr T
UPDATE....well thats it wheel bearing almost blew up...i drove it to canadian tire ....wobbling...screeching ...smoke coming from the wheel...by the time i pulled into the parking lot there the brakes had heated up and i had to really press the pedal...270$ for the hub (canadian) and 140$ for the labour (canadian)...what can ya do?? luckily the axle seals never went and nothing was ever leaking out the axle tube
UPDATE....well thats it wheel bearing almost blew up...i drove it to canadian tire ....wobbling...screeching ...smoke coming from the wheel...by the time i pulled into the parking lot there the brakes had heated up and i had to really press the pedal...270$ for the hub (canadian) and 140$ for the labour (canadian)...what can ya do?? luckily the axle seals never went and nothing was ever leaking out the axle tube
picking the truck up today...nothing else ended up being broken/damaged...it was just that bearing...the U-joing on the driver's even survived just fine...canadian tire here has a rent-a-tool program...u give the pay the value of the tool and get the money back when u bring the tool back u get 2 days...but they refused to give me a socket that big and a 3/4 inch breaker...between those 2 pieces it would have ran me just over 100$ to buy em and id save just about 60 by doing the labour myself...so it was a no brainer and i let them have it......1st bearing ever after almost 300 000kms...id say thats not bad at all



