It's time to change the fuel filter again. The purolater I put on is starting to rust out near the WIF sensor. I pulled out some water over the winter plowing. I saw the light and bought a NAPA gold fuel filter because I was told by the NAPA people it is a WIX filter.

The first time I changed the fuel filter, I tried to remove the seal from the fuel filter housing, but it was stuck on there good. So I left it. This time around I want to replace that seal. I was going to use a razor and cut it off this time, but I don't want to nick the sealing surface.

Page 1-23 in the Haynes manual. Picture 30.5

How do you remove the seal from the fuel filter housing?

 

I use a brass pick made for removing o-rings.

Since you have a '95 hope you know the move the brake master cylinder trick, makes the filter change job so much easier.

 

You mean the square seal that slips up over the threads on the filter housing? You can cut it if you have to but I never have. I just pull it down till it hits the threads then just sorta unscrew it off the threads.

 

Yes the "square" seal as you put it. Mine is SEIZED to the top of the filter housing.

Where can I get a brass pick?

I don't know the master cylinder trick, but removing the filter is easy compared to removing this stubborn seal!!!

 

I'll bet Napa doesn't have one in stock but can get one overnight. They're less than ten bucks.

If you remove the two nuts that hold the master and unplug the the vacuum hose to the booster the whole unit can move easily towards the driver's side giving a ton of room to work.
Only way to do it.

 

Just take a razor blade to that seal.

 

Do you lose any fluid when you remove those nuts form the master cylinder?

I have another question. I am going to flush the coolant. Last time I did, I used Prestone and distilled water. Is regular prestone OK for a diesel? What are SCA's and where can I get them, or do I need them?

 

Go to Tractor Supply or somewhere that has a low-silicate diesel coolant. I use the pink Fleet Charge. Only thing is you gotta change it every 2 years cause it runs out of stuff but it's the only kind I would run in my truck.

No fluid comes out when you loosen the nuts (as long as we're talking about the same ones). lol...

 

Thanks for the coolant tip.

I haven't been near my truck so I can't tell what nuts you guys are referring to.

I'm going to work on it today. I've been itching to take a knife to that SOB.....

 

Just to show you guys my skills, I was able to remove that seal without cutting it.

You just need fingertips of steel.



And I broke my WIF sensor wiring. Looks like the salt got the best of it. Anyone know how much a new WIF sensor is from the dealer?

 

Yeah i've never had to cut my seal off either, its always unscrewed off the threads no problem. And I don't have to swing the master cylinder out of the way either, its a little tight but you can work your way in there and get it with no problem.

 

None at all

 

Guys, now it runs an average of 5psi boost more than before, under any part throttle condition. I am hitting 12psi not even trying where I would be usually making 7-8psi.

I don't know if it's from replacing that seal, using the wix filter, or if the purolator was just that dirty/clogged. It was 6 months old and had 1500 miles on it.

 

Can I use this part # at a Dodge dealer for a water in fuel sensor for a 95?

3831852-S

 

You can order it from Geno's Garage, they are about $24. I ordered one just this week.