My 98 12 Valver has a 3K GSK. It also has the "bump" (split second die) off the idle speed.

When the engine is cold (freshly started) and the outside temps are below 30, the engine frequently stalls out.

How do I adjust the govenor springs to keep it from stalling out ?

 

make sure your shims arn't still in there and tighten the nut a little.

 

A buddy of mine installed it and he's moved away now.

Is there an Article somewhere on how to do it ?

 

not sure about an article but mine came with directions that wernt the best but you take the inside 3 sets of springs out (the 4th, outer spring is the idle spring i believe) and make sure there arnt any shims further inside past the springs. i didnt measure anything i just counted turns on the nut and it turned out great. ive done 2 that way and both work very well.

 

Mine is doing the same thing, after 3 GSK. I took out the three inner springs and one shim out of each set, The big spring stays in, but do I remove shims there? I guess i'll open it back up, but Do I tighten or loosen nut?

 

Try adjusting the idle up a tad.

 

I did adjust my idle after install. It is at 900. Still bounces.

 

I to installed a 4k for the first time couple days ago, motors not yet in truck so still have not run it. But i thought the directions were confusing in one part, it said remove all exept the large out one and remove all shims. Prob. is that the shims in mine were behind the large spring only? On one of them i removed it all to look at them, but put it all back due to it says nothing about "temp. remove large spring remove all washers behind it and reinstall large spring followed buy all the new ones in kit" something like this would have made since to me. So on mine just the 3 inners and the new 1 piece holder or cup behind them got replaced, i did use calipers and got the nuts right back where they were. Is this right or wrong from someones that done it.

 

Here's a couple pointers. First, the instructions say, do not remove big spring, it is the one that controls idle, if you didn't remove it, you would not remove any shims that are under it. You remove all the shims that are under the three smaller springs, do not take out the shims that are under the big spring. Measure or not to measure, your choice, some, like me, go by feel, some people don't have a "touch" so measuring makes it easier. In the end, you want about .050" difference between the top of the stud & the top of the retaining nut. Idle speed should be at correct speed, 850 for manual trans, 750 in gear, A/C on full for the auto's. If the gov springs & idle speed are setup right, you should not have any bounce. A quick check to see if they are set too tight, warmed up, trans in neutral, gently step on the go pedal, rev's should stay right with your pedal movement, if, as you slowly rev engine, rev's go ahead of pedal, in other words, if you're holding enough pedal for 1300 rpm's and the rev's go to 1700 rpm's, gov springs are too tight, loosen them off one click & you should be good to go.

 

Great explination, thanks a bunch. The instructions saying leave in the large outers IS the only reason i decided to leave the shims because when it said remove all shims it at first threw me. Glad to know i got it right, and to know how to fix the bounce if i have that issue when i get the truck running in a few days. By the way with this 4k set, does it fuel to 4k or just run up to 4k but start to defuel before then, i thought about asking this before setting up the rear gear set ive set it up to go through the traps at around 35-3600. Thanks again

 

You are welcome. As for the defueling part, that will very some. 913 & 887 pumps will pull past 4K, the 160 [94-95 auto] pumps will barely get there. A lot depends on your timing, fuel plate & general pump settings, how well the motor is breathing IE: too small of turbo will choke the engine down at the higher rev's.

 

ive always had issues with mine also. free rev goes right to 2500 rpm, it doesent follow the petal. and it is really touchy. probally the next thing im going to look into. I cant remember if i took any shims out from under the big spring, but i think i took everything out. But i do recall adjusting my idle up about 300-400 rpm afterward. It sure would be nice to get those things back to the stock feeling.

 

Thanks, sounds like im cutting it close then, i have the 180 pump [911]. 66/71/13ss, edm 435's, full cuts, deep ground 100 plate, your afc kit with light spring, your overflow valve, your 4k gsk, 2095 rack plug, 60 springs, .20 marine HG, HTT manifold and 12 mm studs, think it will run well the short block only has 47,000 miles and looks like brand new, does this combo sound like it will fuel to 4k? And one other thing in your opinion does anything else need to be addresed to run this rpm at the track ie... better dampner and such?? Thanks a lot Ryan

 

it should run good up to 4k. i think alot has to do with timing, the more advanced the later it is going to fuel hard.

 

Timing has nothing to do with the GSK, plate, and pump lever adjustment which control fueling. Timing is how well the engine will perform with hard fueling past 2,200 prm.