Originally Posted by mytrucksaslug

This makes me a little nervous. I just adjusted the gov. arm on my 97. I couldnt tell where the arm was striking the plate. I just turned the screw till i felt resistance and then tightened up the lock nut. It idles much smoother now, has tons of power and smoke off the line, but hardly any mid range power. Im gonna roll the star wheel back a little to see if it will reduce the smoke. I have a stock plate that is about right in the middle of the afc. I mean its not adjusted forward all the way. I hope i dont melt the pistons.

Originally Posted by got...DIESEL?

for what it's worth, and please shed some light on this one if anyone wants too, but I noticed once when I was running the engine with the AFC off (don't ask why) that the arm was riding about 3/16" up higher on the plate than when the engine was off. I didn't know whether to attribute this to gov springs at idle speed, or something else. I also noticed that the arm would not travel to the plate unless the throttle was stabbed. A slow rev wouldn't bring the arm out. So....like any tinkerer would do, I re-adjusted the plate to the arm while the engine was running, giving the throttle quick stabs to bring out the arm. The stabs were quick enough not to raise the rpm before the arm swung out...giving me a good visual on where the arm was hitting. I have adjusted everyone since the same way, and have yet to bury the arm under the plate. I run a 100 plate and after the adjustment I noticed a lot better off idle response, probably because the arm was actually hitting the ramp and not zero land above it, as I believe was happening before. Again, take it for what its worth, but that what i found.

Maybe this is why "pros" claim to have to do it on the stand...something in the way they set it with a simulated idle arm position??

Originally Posted by P.O.R.

check the gov. arm position with the fuel shut off in run position or pulled up then move throttle till arm just touches to see where arm hits..