Gov arm adjustment
 

Where is the arm supposed to touch the plate?The arm is now hitting about 1/4 inch under the first hump from the bottom of the plate.I think it should hit on the high part of the first hump :confused:

http://piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

Heres a Tech article on how to adjust it. HTH,,, Jim

I have looked at piers web site.It just is not clear to me where the lever should hit on a after market plate. :(

It should hit at the very bottom edge of the plate w/o going under it.

Waylan

That is a good question?? That number "6" is a funny plate. I adjusted the one on my Dad's 96 to hit the plate right at the low "peak" and it works great. Prior to that I had it hitting under the "peak" and the truck was a dog until you leaned into it, then HOLD ON. If you adjust square on the nose the truck will be much more smooth. IMO.

Needs to be right on the tip of the first hump of the plate if you ask me. Mine was under that and was a dog till i adjusted it.

Eric

Totally agree

Here is a question that I don't have an answer to--mabye some of you do? I was talking to a few "reputable" people in the diesel world (DODGE people) and was told that you cannot adjust the governor arm without a pump bench, you need to follow and adjust it throughout the whole RPM range?? Other "reputable" diesel folks such as Peirs say you can?? [eyecrazy] [eyecrazy] Any comments??

plate adjustment
 

i have been tinkering with the ctd for a long time. all the "diesel techs" i know beat around the bush when one trys to pin them down to a straight answer. was even told that the power screw was the idle mixture for the ve. one asks questions and takes ones chances.

Does sliding the plate fore and aft make a large difference in where the governor arm rests on the plate?

Does changing the governor springs also change the height of the governor arm?

I don't know, One of these "pro's" said you cannot use the 6 or 8 because you had to do the adjustment and you cannot without a bench???

Sliding the plate can make a big difference depending on which plate it is, stock plate included. Perhaps the worst example I've seen was a '97 towed in with melted pistons. No gauges, stock plate slid all the way forward, the gov arm went under the plate and got pinned. Owner said the truck ran hell till he hit a big hill then started coughing aluminum and black smoke out his tailpipe.

Changing the gov springs doesn't change the arm setting.

Well, i run a #5, which is suposedly wont work right if you add the governor springs. Added the governor springs, and not much power at all when the converter was locked. Governor arm had moved down on the plate. Adjusted it back up, and all is well again, so i will have to disagree with Infidel on this one, and say that it does, because it did on mine. You can adjust it in the truck with no problem, and it doesent have to be pulled or anything. Someone was blowing BS on that one.

Eric

for what it's worth, and please shed some light on this one if anyone wants too, but I noticed once when I was running the engine with the AFC off (don't ask why) that the arm was riding about 3/16" up higher on the plate than when the engine was off. I didn't know whether to attribute this to gov springs at idle speed, or something else. I also noticed that the arm would not travel to the plate unless the throttle was stabbed. A slow rev wouldn't bring the arm out. So....like any tinkerer would do, I re-adjusted the plate to the arm while the engine was running, giving the throttle quick stabs to bring out the arm. The stabs were quick enough not to raise the rpm before the arm swung out...giving me a good visual on where the arm was hitting. I have adjusted everyone since the same way, and have yet to bury the arm under the plate. I run a 100 plate and after the adjustment I noticed a lot better off idle response, probably because the arm was actually hitting the ramp and not zero land above it, as I believe was happening before. Again, take it for what its worth, but that what i found.

Maybe this is why "pros" claim to have to do it on the stand...something in the way they set it with a simulated idle arm position??

Nose to nose on a #6 with the fuel shut off in the up position works great. This plate usually does require an adjustment with Gov springs! One thing though, don't try to get it too high or you will run out of screw and drop it in the pump, then you will be fishing. I like the #6 in my pump, it allows for a little softer bottom end, then comes on like mad once it's going good, really works well with a radical pump.

Jim