Yea, me too.

I just bought a 98 Ext Cab 4x4, 12 valve, SWB, w/5 Speed. I'm starting to hear this is kinda of rare combo.

Anyways, I LOVE the manual transmission!! MUCH better to make it sound like a FREIGHTLINER!!

How many Freightliners have you ever HEARD with an AUTOMATIC transmission ??

 

Autos are getting more prevelant in the big trucks. I guy I used to work with was looking into getting in to trucking told me, after alot of research, that the new autos were getting better milage on average now. Dont know if I believe it or not.

 

Hey Jimk, how do you like the 215 injectors? Did they add much power? Are EGT's about the same or hotter? I have some i am thinking of putting in mine. Did they add more to the top end of the power band, or the low end, or just more all around? Thanks

Eric

 

injectors will always add power across the board, but I wouldn't do 215's unless you get them free

 

Why is that? I really dont want to go 370's first because of my transmission, second because of EGT's, third because with my little pump I will have a miss, and pretty much have to do delivery valves to fix it; and 4th because the 215's were already in a 12 valve motor that me and dad went in halves on. I would love 370's, but my tranny isnt ready for it, and I dont want to go that far with it yet. I have the 215's already, and i can always go 370's later.

Eric

 

What is a good compromise between 215's and 370's? there has to be something inbetween, i am looking for something that will run nice with a 10 plate , the reason i don't want 370's is i can't afford dv's and a charger big enough to make use of the fuel.
I am not worried about the tranny holding it however...

 

First off I dont wont anyone mad at me for getting off the transmission tread but the reason I mentioned them is the stock transmission can handle a little more power if driven with a little comon sense.
Things that gave me more milage. 17 degrees timing, 215 injectors with the thin washer to keep the spray of the injectors in the bowl. I was told that bigger injectors advance the timing a little. I dont know if that is correct.
Use the thin washers as it made a difference in the way the engine started and ran. I dont wont a lot of power so the 215 injectors is just right for power and economy. I dont have a problem with egts. Power is up from the 160 injectors. Pull hard to over 3k in overdrive. Way to fast for me.
I have the 10 plate all of the way forward and the AFC housing sloted and modified to gain a little more rack travel or that is what I was told. I have a 3 k governor kit also. The truck gets good mileage when driven at 65 or so. I can stand on the throttle and it will go to 3k and stay there through the gears up untill lockup. I dont do that as it would thrash it.
Forrest makes a lot more power that I need but dont wont to change the charger or trash the stock transmission. If I do indeed keep the truck then Dave Goerend is the choice builder for me. I like DTT but the warrenty of Goerend is hard to beat. JimK

 

install the 370's and slide the plate back if they're too much

 

This is true, but you, and I both know that I wouldnt be able to put them in, and keep the plate back, and i would still have the miss. Plus i dont have the $ for them right now anyway. Im trying to find a darn job with no luck yet, as i am still in school so it has to be part time. Next thing i buy will be a built Goerend VB; then possibly some 181 DV's. But for right now i need a job before i do anything.

Now back to our regular thread.

Eric

 

What do you mean by "THIN" washers ?? What diameter are they and what does the "thickness" of the washers have to do with things ??

 

The washer they are talking about is a sealing washer. Similiar to that little copper washer on a brake line at the caliper. They come in different sizes. The different thickness can make the injector sit higher in the head. The reason for this is to get the fixed spray pattern of the injector to hit the optimum spot on the piston during injection. Improper hiegth can cause power problems or possible engine damage. If you look at the piston it is bowl shaped. The idea is to get the fuel to hit at the top of the bowl with out going over. When you see that 370s are designed for our motors this is why. The spray pattern is a little off but close enough that the right sealing washer will let it work safely.

 

I happen to have an auto, and hate it with a passion. Autos are not well suited to a diesel. Diesels make most of their torque down low. Autos are designed to raise RPMs when you need more power by downshifting, something you don't always want to do with a diesel. You get worse mileage, partially because your engine is always running at higher RPMs. I really hate it when I get to a small hill, something my truck can easily handle in OD with the TC locked up, but because i have to push on the throttle a little more, the transmission downshifts and brings me up to 2000+ rpms, even when i don't want it to.

Autos give you NO control. They downshift when you don't want them to, and upshift before you want them to. When I am towing even a light trailer (5000-6000#), and go up a large hill, I REALLY wish I had a manual. With the auto, it feels like I have a 4 cyl. gas engine under the hood. Lots of noise and RPMs but no power. I have to slow to 20-30 mph on the same hill my father's '97 with a 5 speed pulls the same load at 50 mph easily.

They are weaker. Sure, you can get some more strength out of them by buying a built auto, but you are talking $4000-$5000. For that I'd just buy another truck with a 5-speed. Is your 5-speed a little weak? Upgrade to a 6-speed for half the cost of a built auto. Want more strength? Upgrade to a commercial duty overdrive 5-speed (such as the Spicer 3053 I'm still working on getting...rated for a 26,000# GVW).

Autos wear out by design. Every time they shift, clutches and bands slip slightly and wear. Every time you let on and off the throttle, the torque converter locks and unlocks, wearing it out and creating heat. Speaking of heat, autos HATE heat. But they create heat by design. You need to run a trans temp. gauge if you tow to keep from burning up an auto tranny. They are also very delicate. Any small amount of moisture, dirt, band/clutch material, etc. can cause a valve to stick or clog a cooler line.

O.K., now for the positive side of autos. They are great for city driving if you are too lazy to shift a stick. Which is really what an auto was originally designed for...people who couldn't, or didn't want to, handle shifting.

Jim (awaiting the flames)

 

Why is it that these new trucks will not do burnouts while holding the brakes? I have tried it on my CTD and a 05 chevy 1500. won't even try to turn them over until you let off the brake. then hardley anything.
I guess that have some strong A$$ rear brakes

 

If your truck wont pull a hill with 6k lbs at more than 20-30mph you have problems. My uncle has a bone stock 97 CTD auto, and with 6k-10k lbs it does perfectly fine, and wont downgear out of O/D unless it gets going slow enough(loses speed). My auto actually doesent like to downgear at all. maybe its just how its set up, but i can bury my foot in it at 10mph in 2nd gear, and it wont downgear to first. The turbo spools, and it pulls hard all the way. I usually manually up, and downgear my truck. I just like to; but it does fine if i dont. Can you not get your truck in overdrive, and lock the converter on the hills and pull right on up? If you lose speed in overdrive, downgear to 3rd, and lock the converter. Will that not work on yours?

Eric

 

Your truck Defuels until you let off the brakes. There have been a few discussions on this.

Eric