Fuel tank ??
#1
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Fuel tank ??
I have a fuel leak that I've been t-shooting for a couple of weeks now. The only thing left to do was replace rubber fuel lines. I decided to go all the way back to the tank, When I was at the tank I noticed the supply and return line coming from the tank are in very bad shape. Started playing and chipping rust and one of them broke.
I think I found my leak
now my question, I know I need to drop the tank. What is the unit called that has the fuel lines and sensors. Does the whole thing need replaced? or just the fuel lines? I want to have everything I need when I drop the tank.
Thanks, Ken
I think I found my leak
now my question, I know I need to drop the tank. What is the unit called that has the fuel lines and sensors. Does the whole thing need replaced? or just the fuel lines? I want to have everything I need when I drop the tank.
Thanks, Ken
#2
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You can drop the tank or do it the easier way and tilt the bed.
The part you need is called the tank module and costs about $300, unfortunately the lines aren't available separately.
Some folks have been able to stop leakage with epoxy.
The part you need is called the tank module and costs about $300, unfortunately the lines aren't available separately.
Some folks have been able to stop leakage with epoxy.
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Thank you for your quick reply. I wish epoxy would work, but the lines are to far gone. It also makes perfect sense to tilt the bed. Is my only place to get this at a dealer?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
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Dealer only. Sometimes these guys are much cheaper though
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...cfm?siteid=835
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...cfm?siteid=835
#5
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While you're in there, and you have the tank dropped, check the frame rail. My frame was pretty rust free but when I went through it recently and painted it, that area hidden behind the tank was HORRIBLE. Especially where they put the plastic covers over the edge of the frame rail. I used a wire wheel and alot of elbow grease, got all the rust out, then used rust converter, then sealer, and put 2 coats of underbody paint and some spray on bedliner to protect it. I hate taking the tank out, it always seems that I need to when it has 20 gallons of fuel in it lol, so I want to be in there as little as possible. Mines a bit older granted, but it wouldn't hurt to check it.
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I just went through the same problem that you are going through.
I ran the tank down as low as possible and dropped the tank rather than removing the bed.
If the bolts of the holding straps are not to rusty, it may be quicker than removing (lifting the bed)
There is a formed metal piece with the two fuel lines (feed and return) brazed into it. This fitting is pushed into the fuel sending unit by means of a rubber surrounding washer. The fitting kinda pops into the washer. The metal tube assembly that you need is not available buy itself at least from dodge. You need to buy the complete sending unit. Although you might want to try Carter (the actual manufacturer of the sending unit) but I will be suprised if they sell just this part to you, but its probably worth a try.
Because I'm cheap....I machined a new metal disk, drilled two holes in it and brazed new fuel tubes into it (You can buy the tubes at napa with the proper ends to mate to your fuel lines).
The biggest pain of this whole job is disconnecting the fuel lines from the tubes.
If you got any questions dont hesitate to ask
PS: Someone told me that the newer sending units have plastic fuel snubs therefore If you go the new sending unit route I would check to see that you have the newer improved plastic tubes
I ran the tank down as low as possible and dropped the tank rather than removing the bed.
If the bolts of the holding straps are not to rusty, it may be quicker than removing (lifting the bed)
There is a formed metal piece with the two fuel lines (feed and return) brazed into it. This fitting is pushed into the fuel sending unit by means of a rubber surrounding washer. The fitting kinda pops into the washer. The metal tube assembly that you need is not available buy itself at least from dodge. You need to buy the complete sending unit. Although you might want to try Carter (the actual manufacturer of the sending unit) but I will be suprised if they sell just this part to you, but its probably worth a try.
Because I'm cheap....I machined a new metal disk, drilled two holes in it and brazed new fuel tubes into it (You can buy the tubes at napa with the proper ends to mate to your fuel lines).
The biggest pain of this whole job is disconnecting the fuel lines from the tubes.
If you got any questions dont hesitate to ask
PS: Someone told me that the newer sending units have plastic fuel snubs therefore If you go the new sending unit route I would check to see that you have the newer improved plastic tubes
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#9
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Thanks, I just ordered a rebuilt module from Dodge. Only cost $135. New was about $315. I pick it up tomorrow and will install it over the weekend, along with all new fuel line.
#10
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Kenny check it out good before leaving the dealer. The only rebuilts I've heard of the dealer selling are for gassers and have an electric pump built into them.
The pump is the reason they have rebuilts as they go out often.
The pump is the reason they have rebuilts as they go out often.
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I got the repair done. My only problem is the old quick disconnects. I can not get them apart. I tried to get new one through Dodge, but was told I will have to buy the whole fuel line, as it only comes as one unit.
Do any of you know where I can get new quick disconnects? If I can not get them I will try to piece together some compresion to barb, but have concerns of finding the 5/16 fittings.
Thanks
Ken
Do any of you know where I can get new quick disconnects? If I can not get them I will try to piece together some compresion to barb, but have concerns of finding the 5/16 fittings.
Thanks
Ken