She has no Fuel pressure at WOT and when it drops to 0 FP it starts popping through the exhaust. Pressure Jumps around real bad at idle from 20 to 27 and the hose I have the Gauge on pulsates bad.

So I want to put a Regulated return Electric fuel system on. I would use a Ford Power Stroke Pump and a AeroMotive Pressure regulator. Anyone see any problem with this setup? I may install a Filter on the frame rail and get rid of the stock filter. IF This setup will work (I cant see why it would not) What is the ideal Fuel Pressure to run at?

Thank you

 

I think they say you want to stay above 30psi but it will take a pretty good fuel system to do that mine drops to 5psi a WOT. A fass system would do the job and comes with all the line and everything to hook it up.

 

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BigBully:

I see no reason why that Ford PSD Fuel Pump and an Aeromotive Regulator wouldn't work for you. I am assuming that is all you are using right??? I believe that the Ford PSD Fuel Pump is built by Walboro and they seem to be very good diesel fuel pumps.

You mentioned putting a fuel filter on the frame rail and I would DEFINITELY recommend that if you eliminate the stock canister/fuel filter set-up.

As far as pressure, if your engine is close to stock or a little above stock, I would recommend keeping the pressure no lower than 22lbs at any given time.
I have a 180GPH FASS on my 96' and see about 45lbs at idle and it never goes below 42-43lbs. But I am pushing 800 H.P., and want my pressure higher for that reason.

Hope this has helped you some.

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John_P

 

Thanks for the Replies. Yes the SD pump is a very good pump but I know some secrets to make it even better, I run 2 SD pumps (My Mods on both) on my 600hp Power Stroke with an Aeromotive regulator and it will hold 80PSI @WOT so I think One Modded one should hold 40 on the Cummins pretty easy. If not I can run 2.
The Cummins is far from Stock so you think I need to be around 45lbs?

Another thing, If I do this, would I just put the regulator in the return line After the P7100 correct?

What about the Stock Valve do I leave it in there or take it out?

 

Unless you used a gauge snubber or a needle valve barely cracked open to dampen the pulsations your fuel pressure readings mean nothing and the gauge is likely trashed.
Quite likely the only thing you really need is a new overflow valve.

 

I used about 8 feet of hose and kinked it off a little to keep the pulse down. Still runs out of fuel pressure. Where is the best place to get the overflow valve? And while Im thinking about it where can I get a Valet switch everyone talks about?

 

WOW I called cummins and the OverFlow valve is $164 Thats crazy.

 

Someone misquoted you, they are usually $64 from Cummins.

About $40 here>
Precision Diesel Injection and Turbo Inc.
Marty Tompkins
888-734-7349

 

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BigBully:

You are welcome!

On your fuel pressure, I would recommend running somewhat more than what the "stock" settings are. IMHO, if you are at or above 600 H.P., I think a constant WOT pressure of around 40-45lbs. is pretty good. The BIG FASS Systems (180 and 200 GPH) are set around there. I like to have somewhat higher pressures at my P-Pump to keep that baby nice and cool!

BigBully, I am also running a stock overflow valve with no problems whatsoever! And as the other Members told you, they are NOT $164.00!
That had to be a "misquote" by the person you talked to at Cummins!
You can call Scheid Diesel (my shop) @ 1-800-669-1593, they have them, or
any of the banner advertisers here also. You also asked about a Valet Switch.
I believe TST Products handles those (812) 342-6741.

As far as your regulator, I would plumb that up just before the P-Pump or Fuel Filter BigBully. As DTR Member "infidel" told you, if that OF valve does not solve the "pulsation" problem, you will probably need to go to a "snubber"
right before the gauge. I had to do that on mine too and it solved that problem.

Sounds like you are on the right track and doing well buddy! Let us know if we can help you anymore.

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John_P

 

Again Thank you all for the help, It is appreciated.

John_P Is there a reason that plumbing the regulator before the P-pump is better then after? On the Power Strokes I feed the Fuel bowl, That feeds the heads on one end and then the other end of the heads are hooked to the Aeromotive regulator and that returns to the tank and it has been working well for several years now.

Same basic setup on the cummins seems like it would work the same But I just wanted to know if Before was better and why?

 

Well I just called and verified this with Rocky Mountain Cummins. They said it is $164 He also told me that Cummins just had a price increase. I can understand 10 or even 20 bucks but $100??? *** on Cummins whats the deal????

 

<--------------------LOL Thats a good number

 

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BigBully:

You can plumb that regulator where you want to buddy. I guess what I was trying say (but didn't do it) was to suggest you make sure that you have some type of fuel filter between the pusher pump and the P-7100 Fuel Pump. Sorry for the mix-up.

I think you were going to do that anyway!

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John_P

 

Well I decided to leave the filter alone for now but I just didnt know for sure about the regulator since you said to put it before the P-pump. Dont wanna do some thing to mess it up. I just figure I could control the pressure better with it in the return line.

 

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BigBully:

You would be fine with the regulator in the return line. I have seen it done both ways, just a matter of preference and prior experience. One thing to remember, which I am sure you are already of aware of, is if you do put a regulator in the return line be sure it is a "return regulator" and not a "non-return regulator." The "return regulators" have the three (3) ports on them.

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John_P