Hey, I'm new here. Just picked up a 95 dodge ram turbo diesel. My first diesel, but not my first turbo. Bought this beast for $500 from my old boss. But the fuel gauge has not worked in about 10 years. Is it worth replacing? Or will the diesel just eat it away again? I've also noticed that diesel fuel is very dirty. Last time I drained my NEW purolator water separator, no water, but there was alot of fine black debris in the fuel I drained. Is diesel fuel always this dirty? Or is it just my tank? Also does anyone know where I can get a fuel tank filler neck? Mine pisses when I fuel-up, again a sure sign of corrosive fuel.

Any hints? Thanks!

 

The black comes from the returned fuel to the tank just drop the tank and replace or repair the sending unit and diesel is not corrosive clean the tank while you have it down

 

You can fix the fuel level gauge by replacing the sensor in the tank. I heard it's easier to do it by raising the bed instead of dropping the fuel tank. It's a very common problem on these trucks. Mine doesn't work perfect either. To me it's not worth replacing cause it's a lot of work...

 

raising the bed ???

that's 8 bolts, while dropping the tank is only 2 and some connectors.

Now, if the tank is full of fuel, maybe, but if it's empty (plan ahead) it's a peice of cake to drop and fix

I had no choice on mine....GN hitch.......

Also, if you have fine black stuff in the fuel, you may want to put in new diesel rated fuel lines/hose. Someone may have used regular fuel line/hose and the diesel will eat that stuff up.

 

I had my bed off when I fixed mine took all of ten minutes to change once the bed is off. I would rather pull the bed than try to drop the thank as I think its more of a pain to do. For the fuel filler neck I would try to find on at a scrapyard in the south(No rust down that way) I think the *********** wanted almost $400 for a new one. I found one in perfect condition out of a junkyard for $35 While your workin on the fuel system I would go ahead and replace all the fual lines as well. Use marine grade diesel hose I beleive you need 5/16 and 3/8ths for the supply and return. I used around 12ft of each for my reg cab when I replaced the lines.
Evan

 

The black you see are called asphaltenes and are present in all diesel fuel to varying degrees. More info http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asphaltene

Dealer recommended way to access the sender is to tilt the bed unless there is a camper, 5th wheel hitch, etc in the way. I've used both methods, tilting the bed is by far easier than dropping the tank.

 

Wow, I guess I am the weird one...it took me all of 15 minutes to drop my tank, and about 10 to put it back in.


I do have a hitch in the way of raising the bed, but seeing as how I did it alone, I didn't want to risk damaging the bed by it dropping or sliding on me.

 

Well I got you all beat, my bed floor is non-existant from having a dump body inside the stock bed for about 12 years. All that is left are the bed rails. I built a floor out of plywood so accessing the sender is not hard at all for me. And yes, that fine black stuff is very hard to see, an old timer would think I'm nuts!

Also, should I be worried about the KDP? Just learned what it was here.

And one more last question, my oil temp max's out at 195 F. That is under load up a hill for a couple minutes. Usually stays around 185 F when warm. Does this sound normal? Sounds a little low to me. I'm using 10w30 (I know I should be using 15w40). Will be filling it will redline engine oil when my wallet permits.

Thanks for the info!!

 

KDP is a must! Do it before you do your fuel level gauge or anything else.

10w-30 is NOT a heavy duty diesel engine oil (unless you're running Amsoil). It can't hold soot as well, may break down, doesn't contain the required additives for these engines, and may not lubricate the engine well enough due to being too thin. But I guess it's better to run that than nothing. Run a 15w-40 oil, either Delo 400, Rotella, Delvac, Amsoil, etc. Haven't heard of too many people running Redline for whatever reason. Not saying it's bad, it could be better than the rest.

 

Yea...get rid of that thin oil and throw in Rotella or the like. Just so you know, when you upgrade your engine and get into higher HP numbers, Dino (Conventional Oil) is far superior to Synthetic anything, unless you have a bypass filter system, like the FS-2500 or Amsoil Kit. Synthetics can't hold soot in suspension, unlike Dino, and they deposit the soot on bearings, tappets, oil galley's and so on, not what you want with a $$$ engine.

 

Need95; That's the first time I ever herd of diesel rated synthetic not being able to hold soot in suspension. Iv been running delvac 1 in my 2000 VW TDI since it was new. IN fact VW specs synthetic in their Diesels. I Have a 1995 Newholland lx665 skid loader That I bought in 96 and I use Delvac 1 in it since I purchased it also. I have pulled the valve covers on both and they look just like new. Neither one uses any oil and I change the oil in the VW every 10k. The oil in the skid loader I change once a year.
Sorry for the highjack. My fuel guage in my 97 has never been very good. When it was new it would show empty after about 8 gal. were used now it shows empty after about 4 gal. are used. I just go by milage and fill up that way. It is usually between 20 and 25 gal. when I fill up that way. From what I know a new one wont be much better, seems they are poor design.

 

How do you keep the crank from moving when removing the crankshaft damper bolt? That's the only thing keeping me from tearing into it. I think its my destiny to own vehicles with fatal flaws and I don't know it till after I buy it. First it was a MK3 supra with the notorious Head gasket problem and now a cummins with a killer dowel pin.

Ok I know 10w30 was a mistake, but it is better than what I pulled out of that oil pan. And all I saw in the truck was 20w50 bottles, not good in winter at all. So I will be using a wix oil filter and rotella 15w40 it looks like. Thanks!

 

Use a 1/2 air impact wrench on it then you dont need to try to hold the crank. You should put a new front seal in at the same time since you will be 95% there anyway. If you don't want to fix the kdp and feel you got taken Ill give you $600 for it.

 

Can't compare the measly KDP fix to a headgasket problem. It's an easy fix that you can forget about once you do it. Check out www.tstproducts.com for a KDP kit that comes with the front seal. Good luck!

By the way, for my own future reference. How would you remove the crank pulley if you don't have a torque wrench on hand?

 

Hey lifer, I'm not doubting you but, I have access to a half dozen different impact guns (some rated for 120psi) and could not remove the crank bolt on gas engines with them. I use the prybar in the flywheel method. I guess I'll have to pull the starter and wedge it there.

As far as the $600, sorry! I just got an offer last night at work (2nd week driving it) for $1500 cash on the spot. I said no f'in way!

One more question. Can I delete the KDP? I would guess the hard part is getting it out. How ironic...........