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fuel filter relocation kit...

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Old 11-15-2007, 09:47 PM
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fuel filter relocation kit...

I was wondering if anyone has tried this kit out from geno's garage?
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PL-9798

Did it seem to be worth the money? Did it get in the way of something else in the engine compartment? Was it a PITA to install?
Old 11-15-2007, 10:11 PM
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My truck already had this installed by the previous owner when I bought it in June. It had a different filter and if I remember right I had to loosen the bolts so I could lift the plate to remove the other filter. It was taller than the Fleetguard I ordered from Geno's. Sorry I can't give you any information on the install. I'll pop the hood tomorrow to see what was in the way. I noticed you have the TST cam plate and boost elbow. I've been considering doing that to mine. Did you install it yourself? If so, was it difficult? Did it make a big difference?
Old 11-16-2007, 07:24 AM
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hey,
No, the truck came with both mods...

There is a great article on how to do the cam plate with a 97 dodge in the latest Diesel Power magazine. Good pictures and everything.
Doesnt look to difficult.

They do the cam plate, delivery valves, and injectors all at once...with a dyno before and after.

Pretty significant increase in power.

I am torn on doing the 175 dollar relocation kit. I mean, you only change the filter once every 10K miles or more....
Old 11-16-2007, 08:44 AM
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I gutted my OEM filter assembly and put it under the bed with my aux filter. I went with hose back to front so it wasnt hard to do.
I dont know the flow limits of the OEM one, but I put on a 90gph racor in its place. I moved it from pressure to suction side though.
Old 11-16-2007, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mattbatson
. . . I am torn on doing the 175 dollar relocation kit. I mean, you only change the filter once every 10K miles or more....
I don't have one, but the biggest complaint about the filter relocation kit is that it makes access to the injector pump very hard. If you're into making cam plate or AFC adjustments, you won't like the filter kit. I think a better investment is fuel pressure gauge, that way you can monitor your fuel system and get an idea when to change the fuel filter, some can go 20-30k miles, depending your fuel quality. Just my opinion. . .
Old 11-16-2007, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by kawi600
I gutted my OEM filter assembly and put it under the bed with my aux filter. I went with hose back to front so it wasnt hard to do.
I dont know the flow limits of the OEM one, but I put on a 90gph racor in its place. I moved it from pressure to suction side though.
A part number would be good.
Old 11-16-2007, 12:26 PM
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when u relocated it under the bed, did you extend the wiring also? Or did u just leave that off?

Any further details would help...

I'm going to be running bio diesel soon, and changing filters will be kind of a regular thing....
Old 11-17-2007, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mattbatson
I was wondering if anyone has tried this kit out from geno's garage?
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PL-9798

Did it seem to be worth the money? Did it get in the way of something else in the engine compartment? Was it a PITA to install?
Yes, worth the money, saves from the stiff neck, crinked arm thing. 10x easier to change and drain the filter.

Yes, it does block the afc some, you can get to the plate with it on, I've done it a few times, but its much easier to remove and lay to the side. Honestly, only needed to do it once, I'm final on my plates and adjustments. so its been permanent for me about 3 yrs now.

Be careful changing the filter with a big wrench. The boost tube from the intercooler is right next to it. Its easy to slip on the filter and put a hole in the rubber intercooler connector with your wrench. I use a c-clamp type to remove the filter, like an oil filter type.

Also put a towel over your battery when changing filters, the positive connector is right there and a twist of the wrench will send sparks if you get to close.

Takes about 2 hrs to install, you have to extend the electrical leads, no biggee, I used posi-lok connectors. Overall easy to install, you won't regret it. Shiny under the hood also.

Only complaint of install is that the two rubber fuel lines that run back to the main filter, you have to pre-twist them so they come out straight to the filter reloc mount. This took a while for me and finally got the lines straight.

As a precation, I put that plastic loom over everything, fuel lines, electrical, the vacum lines, and anything else in that general area, lots of stuff laying on everything else.

There is one hard plastic line, i think thats the speed control cable or throttle cable that hits the bottom of black fuel sensor drain, i put loom on both just in case.
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