Just about to change the fuel filter for the first time on the 98 12V. Doesnt look too accessible. Any tips??

Thx.

 

Evil:

Drain the filter into a one pound coffee can that you can sit on the lower a-frame, disconnect the WIF sensor, use a universal on your ratchet/socket to get under the cowling and loosen the filter. I snake mine out working from the top on the drivers side by going under the brake booster lines and throttle cables with the filter and housing and bring it up and clear of the engine compartment near the rear of the battery. Clean out the filter housing, change the o-rings, insert new filter and snake the filter back in under the throttle cables and brake booster lines. Make sure its lined up and the drain hose is in the same position as before disassembly. Tighten filter only using about 10 lbs torque, in other words, just snug it up good. I then use a 3 foot stick to operate the lift pump primer plunger (takes about 100 strokes or more to fill up the filter - you will eventually hear the fuel bypassing the overflow valve in the fuel pump when the filter housing is full and the fuel system is pressurized. Some people crack the bolt on the top of the filter housing (not the bolt that holds the filter on) to see when the fuel filter housing is full. Another way to do this as Infidel has recommended is to pressurize the fuel tank with compressed air and a shop rag to force the fuel from the tank through the lift pump and into the filter. Give her a couple of cranks and you should be good to go. Once you get the hang of it, its about a 30 minute job - no big deal.

John (DH)

 

Thanks John

 

I drain the filter after I open the bleeder on the banjo going to the pump. It only takes a little to drain.. All good tips in the above post. Fishing the filter can out isn't fun, but it does come out by the fire wall under the brake booster.

Make sure the filter seal area is clean on the mount on the block.. I think the last filter I had on before this last change was a little dirty and was leaking air.

I cover the canister and filter with a rag before putting it back through under the brake booster etc. too keep it clean until just before I line it up.

The priming takes a while but I prime it with the bleeder open until it spirts, then tighten it up and pump until you hear the OF valve squeek fuel. It usually sputters or stalls the first start, but the second go its all good.

I found that the Fleetguard filters come with ALL the seals and O rings. The Napa filter I bought in a pinch didn't have the O ring for the filter can post, and cost more!!!

Glad to see you are getting some miles on the 12V!!!

 

I just changed my filter the other day, it was kinda of a pain to get to but not to hard, anyway after I changed mine I primed it and went to start it and it started right away and the died so I primed it again but it wouldn't start so what I ended up doing was I had my daughter crank the motor while I primed it and it started right up.

 

Do yourself a favor & remove the 2 lock nuts that hold the brake booster in place (15 mm deep socket). Pull the booster off the studs and pull it over on its side toward the wheelwell. That will give you a LOT more room to work with, and you won't have so much "fishing" to do.

 

The hydro-boost on the 97-98.5 trucks aren't as easy to move the booster system. Lots of hard piped lines to move as well..

 

Scared to drive the thing until I can get that KDP tabbed.

Thanks for the advice J-eh...

 

Oh come on now... We should both do it together... I am not going to jinx myself by spouting about not having it done...

 

We should do that....

 

I still gotta get mine taken care of too. I was going to do it over July shutdown but schedule never worked out with the guy doing it, so it'll end up being a weekend repair. I actually contacted him about advancing the timing and he said he'd take care of the KDP at the same time so... I won't argue!

I also have to get that filter changed, kind of procrastinating that until I have some new diesel rated fuel hose too though.