front Dana 60 outer seal
I noticed oil on my Drivers side tire,inside,not splashed around but running from mid sidewall to the ground.It's coming down the the knuckle and a drop is falling from the grease fitting on the lower ball joint,smells like gear oil so i'm guessing it's outer axle seal. Anyone changed this seal before? The service manual I have does not go into detail or show any pics. I'm assuming this is pretty straight forward, figured I would do both sides and replace the rotors and if funds permit the unit bearings. Plenty of info in the maual for those jobs, Just wondering if the seal is as simple as the Rear axle outer. any first hand knowlage will be appreciated. Thanks
They are pretty labor-intensive to replace. The driver side seal lives inside the differential housing. To replace it, you need to remove both hub/rotor assemblies, both axle shafts, disconnect vacuum assembly, and the intermediate axle shaft on the right side. Then you can remove the differential carrier and tap the seal the seal out from the axle tube.
The passenger side seal lives in the disconnect housing. I usually find a narrow seal installer cup and pull the new seal into place with a long piece of threaded rod through the right side axle tube. It's a tight place to work, and can be a bit frustrating trying to keep the seal going straight as you tighten a nut on the rod to draw it in.
Unfortunately, they aren't the most robust seal, considering all the gunk that usually ends up in the axle tubes. Every one I've removed has had the lip worn right down from grit. I made a little scraper with a long handle, and make sure I get all the dirt out of the axle tube, or else when you put the axle shaft back in, it just pushes the dirt into the new seal.
The passenger side seal lives in the disconnect housing. I usually find a narrow seal installer cup and pull the new seal into place with a long piece of threaded rod through the right side axle tube. It's a tight place to work, and can be a bit frustrating trying to keep the seal going straight as you tighten a nut on the rod to draw it in.
Unfortunately, they aren't the most robust seal, considering all the gunk that usually ends up in the axle tubes. Every one I've removed has had the lip worn right down from grit. I made a little scraper with a long handle, and make sure I get all the dirt out of the axle tube, or else when you put the axle shaft back in, it just pushes the dirt into the new seal.
Thanks torquefan,Funny how when I searched the forum nothing on this came up.... did a google search and It linked back in here to a bunch of threads. Looking at the Corperate Manual I do see the instructions for the seal in the Diff housing. Does look rough,Can't figure why this started leaking,funny it's been fine,everything was dry last week and I only ran around town a few miles. was under today and saw the wet spot.. I suppose it has to start sometime.LOL I'm reading that it may stop (LOL) on it's own. I did have the Ball joints all replaced about 18 months ago,and possibly the seal got damaged then and I've been lucky until now. I've had rear outer axle seals go in other dodges I've owned but this is a first for a front for me. I mainly use this rig off road I may let it go a little while and see how bad it gets,strange it was so sudden. but thanks again for the reply.
green, you didn't happen to park it with that side down in a ditch for 15 min or more recently did you?
I was all bummed that my 80 had started to leak until I remembered I had it that side down in a ditch watering some horses. sure enough, cleaned it up and the leak had stopped, must have just forced it's way past the seal.
I was all bummed that my 80 had started to leak until I remembered I had it that side down in a ditch watering some horses. sure enough, cleaned it up and the leak had stopped, must have just forced it's way past the seal.
The most common cause of them leaking is an overfilled differential.
Factory spec is 3/4" below the bottom of the fill hole.
Filled to the bottom of the hole takes about two extra quarts and is guaranteed to eventually leak. Differential will also run hotter than normal with too much fluid.
They will quit leaking at the correct level but it can take 500 or more miles for all the fluid that got past the seals to finally escape from the axle tube.
Replacing these seals is one job the dealer does for a realistic price, about $125. Don't know why, probably a mistake in pricing they never fixed.
Here's how to do it yourself> http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm
Factory spec is 3/4" below the bottom of the fill hole.
Filled to the bottom of the hole takes about two extra quarts and is guaranteed to eventually leak. Differential will also run hotter than normal with too much fluid.
They will quit leaking at the correct level but it can take 500 or more miles for all the fluid that got past the seals to finally escape from the axle tube.
Replacing these seals is one job the dealer does for a realistic price, about $125. Don't know why, probably a mistake in pricing they never fixed.
Here's how to do it yourself> http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm
thank's guy's. I'ts def leaking.ince I dont rely on er for everyday transportation I am going to put the seal on to do list for next spring. doesn't look overly tough to do,just the pain of the typical old rusty frozen stuff. Probly be well lubed by then though LOL.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
6.7L MegaCab
4th Gen Engine and Drivetrain-2010 and Up
13
Jun 6, 2013 09:22 PM
92smokin blacky
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
12
Jan 4, 2011 12:43 AM



