12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Found my oil leak

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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 01:22 PM
  #1  
Greguw's Avatar
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From: Pennslyvania , Lower Bucks County
Smile Found my oil leak

Hi guys
I degreased the under side of my truck at my shop this morning in hopes to find this leak ...I found it , its leaking where the power steering pump joins to the vacume pump .
If you look up from the bottom of the truck , there is a small area between the two units and thats where she's leaking .

Can anyone give me some info on this problem , is there a seal that I can replace or is the pump shot ... brakes work fine .

Thanks
Greg
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 01:40 PM
  #2  
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From: Jeffersonville, Ohio
There is a seal to replace, but I can't for the life of me remember where I wrote the number down

Someone will chime in and give it to ya soon though,
Chris
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 03:45 PM
  #3  
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From: The Great White North
Doesnt anyone read the tech facts section??:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 05:11 PM
  #4  
Greguw's Avatar
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From: Pennslyvania , Lower Bucks County
You saved me agian ...Doc

Thanks again for the info on the seal.
Now all I have to do is figure out how to put this thing in ...LOL

I'm pretty handy , so when I have all the stuff out of the way for dowel pin I will pull the power steering pump off , dose any one know if I have to remove the vacume pump and what is intailed to remover that unit.

Thanks for the seal info doc .

Greg
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 05:30 PM
  #5  
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From: Montana
The problem with the CR or NAPA seal is that they may be made of butyl rubber. That only has a working temp rating of 200 degrees. You should find a seal that is made of Viton material that has a temp rating of 400 degrees. International Seal & Packing has one. Their part # is 28X38X7AV
Remember to replace the o-ring also.

The process is very easy and takes under an hour to do. Here's how:

1. Remove four nuts securing Power Steering Pump (PSP) to Vacuum Pump (VP). Studs may back out of PSP. Just thread back in. Leave all PSP hoses connected. There is a spring aft of PSP on the injection pump that can get in the way. Disconnect and let hang. Do not separate PSP from VP yet.

2. Remove VP supply line and oil line at the bottom of VP. You may need to back up the fitting (7/16) at the bottom of the VP and then remove the oil line (9/16). You will get some oil drainage so be ready with a small pan.

3. Remove lower bolt attaching VP to gear case. Loosen but do not remove upper bolt completely as this will allow the whole assembly to hang down at an angle providing more room to separate the assy.

4. Gently separate PSP from VP taking care not to scar the sealing surface becoming visable attached to the PSP. Rest PSP on engine mount.

5. Remove upper bolt on VP and remove from vehicle.

6. Keep things clean. Remove two bolts and separate VP halves.

7. Set the PSP side (four legs) of VP face down on bench. Fit a deep socket (large as possible) through the hole in the center and drive the center section holding the seal from the outer housing.

8. Remove old seal and press in new. Clean all o-rings and lightly lube with grease including inside diameter of new seal and sealing surface on PSP.

9. Install center drive star and seal center section into housing. Assemble both havles of VP making sure there is no dirt inside the VP.

10. Install components in opposite order of removal. Clock drive fingers on PSP to VP to help in mating PSP to VP.
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 07:01 PM
  #6  
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From: The Great White North
The TECH FACTS probably should be updated then...including the repair procedure
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