First tow with CTD - less than impressed... help?
#16
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Originally posted by Dr. Evil
Your list looks good. Pull off your cat and straight pipe it....
Your list looks good. Pull off your cat and straight pipe it....
#17
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The downpipe and cat inlet is 3" the cat outlet is 4" as is the muffler inlet. Don't remember from there back on a stocker, usually just threw that part away for a bigger one.
The length will depend on how you remove it. If you oxy/acetylene heat the connections and pull it apart it will be longer than the easy route of cutting it with a sawzall. Just get a rough measure and add a foot or so of 4'' pipe to your order. A 3'' to 4'' adaptor and three clamps and you'll be set. I've bought the whole set up from Napa for around $30.
The length will depend on how you remove it. If you oxy/acetylene heat the connections and pull it apart it will be longer than the easy route of cutting it with a sawzall. Just get a rough measure and add a foot or so of 4'' pipe to your order. A 3'' to 4'' adaptor and three clamps and you'll be set. I've bought the whole set up from Napa for around $30.
#19
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You should go ahead and move the stock plate all the way forward. It would give it a pretty good extra kick(especially when pulling), and your EGT's should be O.K. till the gauges get put in. Me and my freind moved the stock plat in his 95, and he has no gauges, but it made a pretty big difference just doing that. We were both 15 at the time when we moved it, and it took us about 1.5 hours. Also move the starwheel after you move the plate to help get more fuel. STRAIGHT PIPE IT! I love the way they sound straight piped, and they arent much louder at all in the cab. Did you have the overdrive locked out when you were towing??? It helps a lot if you do, because it locks the converter in 3rd gear, and it helps quite a bit, so that may have been a lot of your problem if you didnt have it locked out of O.D. . The stock auto really hurts these trucks, especially when pulling, so take that into consideration too.
Eric
Eric
#20
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Originally posted by cumminsdriver635
You should go ahead and move the stock plate all the way forward. It would give it a pretty good extra kick(especially when pulling), and your EGT's should be O.K. till the gauges get put in. Me and my freind moved the stock plat in his 95, and he has no gauges, but it made a pretty big difference just doing that. We were both 15 at the time when we moved it, and it took us about 1.5 hours. Also move the starwheel after you move the plate to help get more fuel. STRAIGHT PIPE IT! I love the way they sound straight piped, and they arent much louder at all in the cab. Did you have the overdrive locked out when you were towing??? It helps a lot if you do, because it locks the converter in 3rd gear, and it helps quite a bit, so that may have been a lot of your problem if you didnt have it locked out of O.D. . The stock auto really hurts these trucks, especially when pulling, so take that into consideration too.
Eric
You should go ahead and move the stock plate all the way forward. It would give it a pretty good extra kick(especially when pulling), and your EGT's should be O.K. till the gauges get put in. Me and my freind moved the stock plat in his 95, and he has no gauges, but it made a pretty big difference just doing that. We were both 15 at the time when we moved it, and it took us about 1.5 hours. Also move the starwheel after you move the plate to help get more fuel. STRAIGHT PIPE IT! I love the way they sound straight piped, and they arent much louder at all in the cab. Did you have the overdrive locked out when you were towing??? It helps a lot if you do, because it locks the converter in 3rd gear, and it helps quite a bit, so that may have been a lot of your problem if you didnt have it locked out of O.D. . The stock auto really hurts these trucks, especially when pulling, so take that into consideration too.
Eric
I understand the auto is not as good as the manual, but there is no excuse for pulling small hills with that light of a load @ 55 mph when my Ford V10 would pull it 80 mph without a problem (yes, I am having some buyer's remorse right now over getting rid of the V10 that pulled better than this current Cummins).
#22
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Here is a link from the TST website on how to put in a plate, but since you dont have one, you just follow all the steps except where it says to put in the new plate, and loosen the 2 screws holding the stock plate, and move it all the way toward the front of the truck. The worst part is getting the break off screw out. It is right on top of your injector pump, on the drivers side of the engine compartment. If you need any help with moving/putting in a plate, just ask, and i will be glad to help . Here is the link
http://www.tstproducts.com/power_install.html
Move the stock plate, and you will be surprised at the difference. Dont worry the least bit about the cummins not pulling as good as the v-10 right now, it apparently has something a little wrong with it, but when you get that fixed, it will be a lot better. You should probably also tighten all your boost clamps, because if boost is leaking by, it could hurt it a lot pulling. Good luck, and if you need anymore help, just ask .
Eric
http://www.tstproducts.com/power_install.html
Move the stock plate, and you will be surprised at the difference. Dont worry the least bit about the cummins not pulling as good as the v-10 right now, it apparently has something a little wrong with it, but when you get that fixed, it will be a lot better. You should probably also tighten all your boost clamps, because if boost is leaking by, it could hurt it a lot pulling. Good luck, and if you need anymore help, just ask .
Eric
#23
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Sliding the plate forward is all fine but I know from much experience that if you put your foot into it you can reach piston melting exhaust temps rather fast especially towing.
Put in a pyro before you move the plate.
Otherwise your cheap new horse power can turn into a expendsive new engine fast.
Put in a pyro before you move the plate.
Otherwise your cheap new horse power can turn into a expendsive new engine fast.
#24
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DRM, Before you get too carried away with so many different things you should really get some gauges. Chances are moving the stock plate forward won't cause egt problems, but there is a chance it could. Hate to see you melt down your investment before you had a chance to discover the real joy of it.
A straight pipe sounds cool, until you have to drive for 12 hours at 70mph. I ended up putting a 24 valve resonator on mine, nice sound.
I would really recommend hooking up a temporary boost gauge to help troubleshoot things. Just get a 30# water/air gauge, some nylon tubing and a couple compression fittings with 1/8" NPT threads. You can hook it into your manifold and run the line into your cab and lay the gauge on the dash. This way you would know if you're getting boost or not. Lack of boost will prevent your AFC from allowing fuel. You could also check the line going from your manifold to the AFC. Your wastegate could also be hanging up.
I've also heard of people having problems with the Prime-loc.
Once you get things figured out, you'll wonder why you waited so long to get rid of your V-10.
A straight pipe sounds cool, until you have to drive for 12 hours at 70mph. I ended up putting a 24 valve resonator on mine, nice sound.
I would really recommend hooking up a temporary boost gauge to help troubleshoot things. Just get a 30# water/air gauge, some nylon tubing and a couple compression fittings with 1/8" NPT threads. You can hook it into your manifold and run the line into your cab and lay the gauge on the dash. This way you would know if you're getting boost or not. Lack of boost will prevent your AFC from allowing fuel. You could also check the line going from your manifold to the AFC. Your wastegate could also be hanging up.
I've also heard of people having problems with the Prime-loc.
Once you get things figured out, you'll wonder why you waited so long to get rid of your V-10.
#25
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Originally posted by Steve Roseman
DRM, Before you get too carried away with so many different things you should really get some gauges.
DRM, Before you get too carried away with so many different things you should really get some gauges.
#26
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Yeah, i do agree that gauges are very helpful, and can prevent a lot of damage, but my truck has a #5 plate in it, and Im just now getting gauges in it. I do think that weve run it a little warm pulling once, but as long as you drove sensibly it should be fine for a little while. I got my gauges for christmas, and my mom is always like, well i dont think you NEEDED them; and im always like YES I DO!!! She was telling me today(I live on a farm, and pull quite a bit) when we were going to pick up some ten for a building roof (had the goosneck hooked up) that she thought you only needed them if you pulled a lot, and i just pointed back at the goosneck .Good luck with your truck .
Eric
Eric
#27
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Eric, I agree the #5 won't get you into high egts if driven sensibly but sliding the stock plate full forward is a different story. That's one of the reasons an aftermarket plate is a good investment.
#28
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Originally posted by DRM
Thanks, but lots of different suggections going lots of different directions.
Let's put it in list form of things to check first and let me know if this sounds like where I should start:
1. Change/replace all fluids and filters (oil, fuel, air)
2. Visual inspection for damage, leaks, wear, on/around engine
3. Remove cat (Temp. or permanent?)
4. Re-set timing (gotta figure out how first - lol)
5. ????
I had a typo up above - mileage is only 274,000 not 374,000.
I have been told in stock form these trucks are not that great, and a few mods should be expected to bring out the real workhorse in them.
I am about to purchase a full set of gauges (tranny/pyro/boost) and possibly a #10 plate and see what happens from there.
Thanks, but lots of different suggections going lots of different directions.
Let's put it in list form of things to check first and let me know if this sounds like where I should start:
1. Change/replace all fluids and filters (oil, fuel, air)
2. Visual inspection for damage, leaks, wear, on/around engine
3. Remove cat (Temp. or permanent?)
4. Re-set timing (gotta figure out how first - lol)
5. ????
I had a typo up above - mileage is only 274,000 not 374,000.
I have been told in stock form these trucks are not that great, and a few mods should be expected to bring out the real workhorse in them.
I am about to purchase a full set of gauges (tranny/pyro/boost) and possibly a #10 plate and see what happens from there.
Also if your tranny was rebuilt be a normal rebuilder it will not handle much more than the stock plate moved forward for very long.
A #10 is designed for a stick to start with.
The #5 is the comprable plate for a slushbox but if you don't have a HEAVLY modified tranny if WILL fry it very soon.
Also unless the heavly modded tranny 3K gov. kit is safe but a 4K is pushing it.
White smoke sounds like the timing has slipped.
Also check your KDP.
Soundas like you have the beginning of a super truck it just needs some maint. and tuning and tweaking.
Give me a pm if you want more info.
: Eddie :
Also a #5 WILL send your temps through the roof espicially with no straight pipes.
GET GUAGES FIRST !!
#29
I agree I use to run the fords also If I was you I would sign the title put it in the glove box then PM me were it is and I will get rid of it for you. No really listen to these guys and add a few mods and it will blow your mind what these thing will do.
#30
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OK guys, i definatley believe you about E.G.T.'s now. I just hooked up my pyrometer tonight, and have gotten it up to 900 degrees already in just like 1/12 or 1/15 of a mile . I didnt think it would get so hot so fast. Im sure ive had it pretty hot pulling before, but at least i can monitor it now. Sure is fun to watch the gauge fluctuate so much(I figured it would move a lot slower); cant wait to get the boost gauge hooked up!
Eric
Eric