Electrical nightmare
#1
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Electrical nightmare
First off, let me say that this forum is great. I just joined, and this sight has been a huge help, in working on my truck. I now have three problems with my truck that have slowly compounded. First my truck would jump in and out of overdrive. A little while later, whenever I would turn the key on, the ASD relay would click like crazy, stop, then the intake heater would come on. Now, they don't come on at all. My wait to start light comes on periodically while I'm driving, WIF light never comes on. Since the problem started with the heater grid, my tranny won't shift into overdrive at all. Finally, my charging system quit. I'm a little new to the diesel game, and unfortunately I found this site after I had already spent some money. I bought new relays for the intake heater. Dodge sold me a set for a new truck, and said they would work; they didn't. I cleaned the TPS and tested it, and it is working fine. I even tried the potentiometer trick just to be sure. Then I bought a new alternator, because the kid that tested it told me the stator was bad in it. Funny, I just realized that I'm pretty sure there IS no stator in it. Maybe that's why it's bad. I checked all my connections; cleaned them, greased them. I did continuity tests on all the fusible links I could find. I checked grounds. I checked the brake light switch; it had already been repaired once. I checked the gap on the CPS. I found a test for the CPS in my wonderful Chilton. Even though the book covers diesels, it only shows the gas ones. Would the same test work though? It's just a resistance check. After doing some reading on here I am worried that my PCM is bad, and just wanted to make sure I hadn't missed anything. Thanks for any help I receive and the help I have been given.
#2
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Sure sounds a cps problem to me, when mine died i had no charge, wierd tranny shifts because to the computer the engine wasn't running with no cps signal. I think the sensor is just a hall-effect type so a resistance check should show if it's open or shorted at least but it could also be flakey. The connector can also be a sore spot as well try cleaning it.
I wonder if your heater grid problem isn't related to worn starter contacts? I know they can affect the shut-off solenoid.
Just a thought
chris
I wonder if your heater grid problem isn't related to worn starter contacts? I know they can affect the shut-off solenoid.
Just a thought
chris
#3
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I second that
BAD PCM.... do urself a favor and replace it, save urself alot of headache and money.....
Infidel is the guru when it comes to this, if he says its a bad PCM, it probly is... just obey, like i shoulda done..
Tx
BAD PCM.... do urself a favor and replace it, save urself alot of headache and money.....
Infidel is the guru when it comes to this, if he says its a bad PCM, it probly is... just obey, like i shoulda done..
Tx
#5
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just for clarification, every alternator has a rotor and a stator. the stator is the housing (the part that does not rotate), and the rotor, well, it is the rotating part.
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OK. I hooked up the external voltage regulator tonight to get my truck going till I find a CPS. Everything worked perfect for a while, then it started to overcharge. I messed with my connections and ran another ground from the reg to the firewall, but that did not help. On my other issues, I ran a new ground from the motor to frame tonight. I still need to run one from the cab to the chassis as well. I was wondering what guage wire I should use, and if there was a preferred location for the ground. Thanks
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#10
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Originally posted by Prshby44
OK. I hooked up the external voltage regulator tonight to get my truck going till I find a CPS. Everything worked perfect for a while, then it started to overcharge. I messed with my connections and ran another ground from the reg to the firewall, but that did not help. On my other issues, I ran a new ground from the motor to frame tonight. I still need to run one from the cab to the chassis as well. I was wondering what guage wire I should use, and if there was a preferred location for the ground. Thanks
________________________________
OK. I hooked up the external voltage regulator tonight to get my truck going till I find a CPS. Everything worked perfect for a while, then it started to overcharge. I messed with my connections and ran another ground from the reg to the firewall, but that did not help. On my other issues, I ran a new ground from the motor to frame tonight. I still need to run one from the cab to the chassis as well. I was wondering what guage wire I should use, and if there was a preferred location for the ground. Thanks
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Regulator worked well for a couple weeks at best, then overcharging once again, i used for a ground the battery on the drivers side, it didnt work, next i used a ground screw that was at my fender, nope didnt work either, The regulator is a temporary fix, but it will also blow out your 30 amp engine control fuse, u might wanna check that if you havent already done it.. Just please, get urself the PCM... it will save u alot of headache and money... Gauge, didnt really matter as far as im concerned. What happened to me, was nothing worked anymore, none of my gauges xcept the fuel one, which snapped me to bite the bullet and get teh PCM... best move ive made to date.... best of luck..
I know it hurts, but just get it at the dealership.. its really tough to find them elsewhere... i tried believe me
Tx
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