Hey guys what kind of axles, tranny and transfer case do 3/4 or single wheel one tons have under them. I want a 4x4 with a manual tranny. Will the tranny hold up to bombing or do I need to look at getting another one and where can I get one? Is it a kit? Thanks for the help, and I will have a few more questions soon. Oh ya Im looking at 94-98 dodges.<br>Thanks<br>Mack

 

The transmission on a manual is a NV4500 HD 5 speed. They had a weak link in the 5th gear shaft and nut, but most have been fixed by now. If not it would have failed by about 50,000 miles, so you would know. The fix is relatively inexpensive, $300 in parts and some labor.<br><br>The automatic varies by year, and if interested I would recommend a visit to DTT's website and a review of their recommendations.<br><br>The divider box is chain driven and adequate. In 94 it is a NP241, and in the later years it is a NP or NV241 HD (same company, just a name change from New Process to New Venture to beat some taxes). <br><br>The front axle is a Dana 60, the rear either a Dana 70 or a Dana 80. The Dana axles are the benchmark of the industry, and are what all the other guys try to mimic.

 

Ya I was planning on putting lockers front and rear so strength is important. How do you tell the difference between the dana 70 and 80? Is it better to switch to a different tranny or just leave that one in? I heard about a 6 speed of some sort.<br>Thanks,<br>Mack

 

I have to ask. But I hope you are going to put a cable or electrically actuated locker in the front. I had an 85 GMC that someone put detroit lockers in and I must say the popping and banging on dry roads sounded like something was going to spit out of the center section of the front axle at times

 

Ya i was planning on putting some manual activated locker in the front and maybe even in the rear. Do these trucks come with limited slips in the rear?

 

Hi Mack,<br>Make sure you use a locker that you can turn on and off in the front end, as you would otherwise defeat your axle disconnect. If you must have that disconnect, you might as well benefit from it.<br>My `98 has a limited slip rear. Since I own 2 Jeeps, I do not plan on wheeling our Ram. Although, they will do great, as long as you do not sink it. They are heavy.<br>A word of caution whether you go limited slip or a mechanical locker. They can be a nightmare on a rain slick street.<br>When I first got my truck I turned one street too soon on the way home from work. It was raining cats and dogs.<br>So, I saw an opportunity to do a U-ie. But, of course I would have to do the old see-saw routine. N O T.......!<br>I poked it just a bit because traffic was heavy. I spun the truck right around. Ironically, it stopped right in the lane I had intended for and was perfectly straight. Guess, I just let other folks believe I did that on purpose.<br>Lets just say, when I got home I had to smooth the fabric out in the center section of my seat where it was a bit gathered up. DOH!<br>Full time mechanical lockers really stink if you tow or carry hevy loads. Remember, the more strain on them, the tighter they generally lock up. Plus, your fuel mileage and tire wear just won't be as good as now.<br>ARBs are great if you don't have air leaks. The compressor can be handy to air up, as well.<br>PowerTrax was working on an electric locker. Not sure where that is at right now, as they were just bought out.<br>You will need to weigh out all of the factors. If you just plan to wheel the truck, mostly. The full time lockers would be fine, most of the time, except side hilling.<br>I would not waste your money on a limited slip, if you are going to this much trouble.<br>Your rears are more than strong enough. If anything gives, it would likely be your transfer case. But, likely only if you misuse it.<br>Good Luck!

 

would someone explain to me how the front axle disconnects and what you meant by if i wanted to use it to get a arb or electric locker. I wish i could work it like my chevy where i just had the hubs on the front i would lock and poke the transfer case in. Should i get lockers before i even take it out once mudding? I know my old chevy had the gov-lock and was ok in the mud stock but still sucked compared to when i put lockers in it. ANy one ever used a winch on one of these beasts? I would about have to get a 15000 lb. winch wouldn't I?<br>Thanks,<br>Mack

 

ARBs use a positive-locking dog clutch setup that is activiated by compressd air from an onboard source. Full locking when applied - open when not applied. Can't run one up front on hard pavement because there is no differentiation between the axles which = no slip = no turn without something breaking. Electric locker is the same principle but uses an electric/magnetic clutch (like AC clutch) to lock in solid. Basically each becomes a spool when applied.<br><br>Axle disconnects I do not know about - my 78 is full-time and my Scouts are all auto locking hubs/PT TFC.

 

Hey thanks for the reply, I know how the arbs work and like them very much. I used to run a spool in my 14 bolt in my 74 k20 until i got an arb and its sweet, just have some air leak problems every now and then but I think I got that replaced. Anyway I am giving this truck to my very close friend and getting a dodge to replace it and I am hoping the dodge can do every thing and more the old chevy could. Anyone else know how that center axle disconnect works?