Bobcat698

Ok, DW is getting more prevalent with both the Nittos and the 33" BFG MTRs, so I'm taking the truck in to get re-aligned free of charge.

Will adjusting the caster possibly fix my pull to the right, or is that a different issue? It occurs with the Nittos AND the BFG MTRs. I have to have the wheel nearly a quarter turn to the left to make it track straight. Its not a STRONG pull by any means, but I definately have to have it pointed left to go straight.

Thanks!

pittom

i had the dw, replaced track bar better but still there,replaed all tie rod ends,better but pulled to right. took it to my friend and put it to the facorty settings. It was much better but now it pulled to left a little and steering wheel was not streaght. Went back and put my rear tires on the frount(frount tires wore out on one side(36" mudders)). Took care of it all good now

Bobcat698

I have tried several tire combinations (I have 2 sets) and have noticed no difference in the pull to the right.. The death wobble is more prevalent with the wider MTR's though.

Cowhand

More caster. I set mine at 3.2L/3.5R, .3 cross caster. This usually takes care of the pull, and I'm running a way more aggressive tire than you are. Did you try switching the left/right tires? Does road crown make a difference in the pull?

Might also have them look at the rear toe, mine is toed out on the left rear and in on the right, and mine will drift slightly to the right as well. You can also adjust the bearing preload on the steering box, that will help a little. Instructions are on dodgeram.org.

Bobcat698

I was waiting for you to answer

I have switched left and right tires, I have many different combinations I run and it doesn't matter if I run the Nitto AT's or the BFG MTR's, it still pulls right.

I have cranked the preload down quite a bit on my aftermarket AGR box because I was turning the wheel, but the pitman arm wasn't showing feedback. Now it turns almost instantly.

Road crown makes no difference at all.

The alignment specialist at my dealer says the caster cannot be adjusted left to right, only as one number.
Upon further prying he says we can possibly get a slight twist (which you have 3 tenths difference in left to right on your setup) and that might be possible.
How does cross-caster work?

He said if I gave him the methods he would be willing to look at it to help me out.

The caster also helps with DW, correct?
Thanks!

Cowhand

The technical term for death wobble is caster shimmy. More caster will usually cure it, provided all the other steering components are reasonable sound.

The proper way to obtain cross caster is to use an eccentric cam in the upper ball joint. If you look at the uppers, there's a cam in there with a flat side on the top flange, right underneath the big nut. This cam needs to be replaced with the adjustable cam. The cam is used to put the .3 of additional caster in the right side, then the cam bolts on the LCA's are used to swing both sides equally into the final adjustment. For instance, with the cam set properly on the right side, the axle is adjusted to 3.2*, and the R side already has the additional .3 to set it at 3.5*.

The wrong way to do it is to set the left side and use the cam bolt on the other side to crank the .3 in, this puts a bind or twist on the axle housing.

Clear as mud?

Bobcat, you don't have to wait for me to reply, you can always shoot me a PM if you have a specific question

Bobcat698

Cowhand, I just dug up the alignment spec sheet from when they aligned my truck:
Left and right camber is -.2*
Left front caster is 2.5*
Right Front Caster is 2.4*

Cross camber is .1*

What do you think?

Thanks!