12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Cooling System Maintenance

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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 08:05 AM
  #16  
John_P's Avatar
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From: Holly Ridge, N.C.
Originally Posted by joem
John P, still waiting for good weather to check the coolant for leaks, seems to be leaking when sitting- maybe the rad drain? I had trouble with that plastic petcock last summer, wouldnt move more than a 1/4 turn.
I plan to take it to my dads shop, drain the oil out and then put a bucket under the open oil pan- let it sit for a week strait with the drain plug removed to see if I get any water out of the oil pan?
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Thanks for your update joem!

Yes,.....by all means check the plastic radiator petcock. I have had trouble with those on both my 1996 and the 2006. IMHO,.....they are JUNK!
Also, you need to get the truck hot and then come back to your garage and look real carefully along the area where the cylinder head meets the block.
Do that from front to rear. If there is a slight leak in the headgasket to the outside of the block, sometimes they are hard to see and find joem. Look for "white type stain" or rust on the side of the block.

One other tip for you is to rent or buy a radiator pressure tester. You connect these to the area where the radiator cap goes and then you can increase the pressure by forcing air (pressure) into the cooling system. On my old stock block, I had to get the pressure up over 20lbs to finally see the block leak behind the drivers side pushrod inspection plate. I have to tell you that had I not seen this leak with my own eyes I never would have believed it joem!
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #17  
joem's Avatar
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From: Brightwood, Oregon
about that plastic petcock, how far should it unscrew? My honda and toyotas unscrew fully- then I hit the rubber oring with sillicone and reinstall. Last summer after only a 1/4 turn it started to go crunch crunch but coolant drained well and I just tightened it back up, does the dodge one fully unscrew? Maybe its broken? I removed the rad cap this AM, it was under vaccume and coolant was not visable yet again- Lots of barnacles (lack of better term) on the inside passageways too
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #18  
joem's Avatar
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From: Brightwood, Oregon
took a quick look after a 20 mile drive today, passanger side of the block below the head is dry and perfect. a bit of oil below the injection pump. I stuck the camera in some holes I couldnt fit my body into. Will take a closeer look when the weather gets better. this 110" of rain a year sucks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZI_Q...ature=youtu.be
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #19  
torquefan's Avatar
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Originally Posted by joem
about that plastic petcock, how far should it unscrew? My honda and toyotas unscrew fully- then I hit the rubber oring with sillicone and reinstall. Last summer after only a 1/4 turn it started to go crunch crunch but coolant drained well and I just tightened it back up, does the dodge one fully unscrew? Maybe its broken? I removed the rad cap this AM, it was under vaccume and coolant was not visable yet again- Lots of barnacles (lack of better term) on the inside passageways too
They don't unscrew much more than half a turn. You need to use needlenose pliers and pull slightly as you turn. It will pull out a bit and then the coolant will start to flow. I've had several leak after doing them back up, so I got in the habit of removing them completely and replacing the o-ring after I used them.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #20  
infidel's Avatar
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From: Montana
I learned 20 years ago to pretend the funky drain coc doesn't exist.
No matter how careful you are they often will leak afterwards.
Much easier to just remove the lower radiator hose.
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